frowny-face with Edge

Discussion in 'Filament' started by Henry feldman, May 25, 2016.

  1. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    What the heck are you printing? :) All the same Edge flavours? Lots of small models or lots of large models? One model at a time or full bed. Just curious really.
     
  2. GBR1

    GBR1 Member

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    I have a product that I am printing and sell, so currently one print is approx 30 hours (which contains 4 parts). 1 roll does me for 8 parts approx..

    Just ordered another 10 rolls:)

    Maybe I got luck with my BigBox's, they have been printing flat out and working like a charm (with a few minor hiccups along the way which is to be expected)...

    GBR1
     
    Stian Indal Haugseth likes this.
  3. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    @GBR1 as far as I'm concerned, you're living the dream!

    To create something useful enough that it's worth hit print and rolling out LOTS.
     
  4. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    I'm trying the same settings with the E3D S3D defaults and not getting the Edge to stick. Which UHU are you using? I don't know where mine came from (UK students?) but I have "UHU stic".
     
  5. gearmesh

    gearmesh Well-Known Member

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    Following this thread as I am unhappy with my 3 rolls of Edge (only 1 roll opened). I can get a great print when there is no bridging but my designs all have bridging :(
    I thought when I moved off the bowden Titan to the direct Titan my problems would go away. I thought it was just a retraction setting causing my issues. No such luck.
    Hope to see more success stories though. I will retry my prints with some of the settings mentioned in this thread.
     
  6. jfb

    jfb Well-Known Member

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    I've not had any real issues with edge other than a little more hair than I'd like - and that's probably a touch of over extrusion or possibly retraction settings. Not been bad enough for me to spend time tweaking it yet. I've only done one bridge with it so far, and that came out fine. In all I've used about half of three spools so far (green, purple and white).

    Getting rid of the hair, I just give a quick rub and scrape with the edge of a blade, then play a hot air gun over it. Takes seconds and gives a nice finish. I'm certainly not getting perfect prints, but I am getting good enough for what I want (reasonably good I think), and the remaining issue (hair) is fixable when I get round to playing with it, and in the meantime it's a minor issue. The attached file is actually the first thing I did with edge (the rest are not here).

    Settings I used were bed at 80, nozzle at 220, 0 fan for first two layers, 30% fan after that with (I think) 80% fan for small layers, and 100% for bridging. I used UHU Stic on the bed. I've also done two prints with just clean glass, and one was ok the other came unstuck part way through.

    I'll play around with it over the next week or so and see what happens (got ABS loaded at the moment).
     

    Attached Files:

  7. gearmesh

    gearmesh Well-Known Member

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    Well. Playing around today it appears my issue may be retraction & Edge.
    So what settings are you using for retraction? If my prints don't have to bridge or jump across, they print excellent.
    I just moved from my Bowden Titan to my direct Titan. (I have a hybrid but only print one color at a time still.)
    Now I just need to find the right settings. Once I get that I will print parts for the dual Titan setup and never go back to Bowden.
     
  8. jfb

    jfb Well-Known Member

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    I was using 1mm retraction and min travel after retraction of 2mm. Retraction speed 30mm/s
     
  9. gearmesh

    gearmesh Well-Known Member

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    @jfb
    I found another issue that I was doing which was causing havoc. I was printing close to the edge of the bed. While I was printing last night, I noticed the edges do not get hot while the middle of the bed does, so I will only print in the center from now on.
     
    #69 gearmesh, Jul 17, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2016
  10. Tom De Bie

    Tom De Bie Well-Known Member

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    It funny that you ask this question. Some time ago I bought a three pack (with minions drawn on them) and those UHU sticks didn't work at all. Tried everything I could, because I've never had any issue with UHU sticks in the past. I bought a new UHU stick and everything worked as before.
    I've sent a mail to the company that produces them to ask if they changed something in the receipe of those 'minion' sticks, but they said there wasn't a difference between both types of sticks...
    Very strange indeed.
     
  11. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    You may find that your heater is not in proper contact with the bed as it can sag in the middle. There are several solutions to this problem, one being a couple of light springs between the bed carriage and the heater positioned near the middle about 100mm apart or another method is to use two of these similarly positioned and lightly screwed up to press against the heater; this ensures better heated bed performance.
     
  12. gearmesh

    gearmesh Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tip!.
    I was wondering why anyone would need those "Bigbox Heated Bed Supports" Now I know. LOL. I will print some up.
     
  13. gearmesh

    gearmesh Well-Known Member

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    An update on my EDGE experience.
    I started testing my filament more based on all I read here.
    I tested at 205 degrees and found:
    1. Fast mode comes out best
    2. Medium mode was not bad but came out underextruded
    3. Fine mode did not fair so well. I will retest this
    Pictures to come once I test all three modes at 205, 210 and 215 degrees
     

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