Getting my 910 on

Discussion in 'Show off' started by Henry feldman, Apr 29, 2016.

Tags:
  1. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    Well, decided that the Hybrid Hot end just wasn't going to work in Bluprint due to the curling issues, so decided to break out the Nylon 910 (figured 8100psi strength ought to be sufficient for any pressures I will encounter even with the awesome titan extruder!). Well here is test 1 at 0.15 layer height, 255C, bed 45C, 15% infill, retraction to 5mm per the Taulman3D site, all printed on Wolfbite Nitro (the nylon one). Had a pillow block left over from some work I did over at the OnShape office during a class, and figured sure let's try it. This is really sweet in person (the little zits came right off). Can I tell you how much I love this stuff?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    That looks excellent!
     
  3. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    @mike01hu printed perfectly in Nylon. At 40% infill this might be a tad overkill. I suspect I could extrude titanium through this thing. It's solid as a tank!
     
  4. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    By the way unlike Wolfbite Nano (PLA) which is invisible, Wolfbite Nitro (Nylon) is a horrible orange glop. But it works as advertised.
     
  5. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2015
    Messages:
    1,095
    Likes Received:
    322
    Looks good. Thanks for putting the print settings above. 0.4mm nozzle? Really low bed temperature that. Interesting. What's the Tg of this material?
     
  6. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    The one thing that Taulman3D doesn't lack is extreme detail on each material o_O. Not sure of what to make of the very wide Tg to Melting Temp temperature variation?
     
  7. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
  8. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    By the way in case folks were wondering, epic fails with Nylon are really and truly epic. I mean damn, when you get a ball around the print head of a 8000psi tensile strength plastic, and cancel the print, sending that ball into the wiper, hahahaha. Good times....o_Oo_Oo_O
     
  9. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    I see you edited out the expletives!!! :D
     
  10. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    Well here is the first real Nylon 910 part I designed and printed from scratch (as opposed to printer parts). This is actually a working mockup of the drawers in the OmniCell that dispense medications in the hospital to the nurses (they are electronically controlled). This is for a CAD class I will be teaching to our nurses, using OnShape, on how to solve quality problems in the hospital that need a "thing". In this case they will design an insert into the drawer that holds blister pack meds and helps them be counted quickly (needed something simple). But our pharmacy didn't have any spare drawers for the class, so I measured one on my floor and printed this out today... Very, very strong, wish I'd made the hinge slots on the back deeper to allow the door to flop all the way back, but it goes past 90... 255C/45C, 0.15mm, 0.4mm nozzle, 4 top/bottom layers, 40% infill. Retraction I set at 5mm which seemed to work, but I think I needed to increase coasting or something as there was some loops on the inside of the corners...

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2015
    Messages:
    1,095
    Likes Received:
    322
    Lovely looking print that again.
     
  12. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    Super job Henry. I really like the quality of printing that you have achieved and no warp!
     
  13. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    So decided to go for broke and do some really thin walled stuff for a work research project (this is part of a surgical instrument). The wall in front of and behind the DotStar LEDs are 0.5mm in thickness. Really happy on how they came out! Need to work on some of the de-zitting but other than that came out super sharp and love how snug the LEDs are fitting

    [​IMG]
     
  14. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    Even more impressed Henry. I may have to reconsider Nylon 910 for my new telescope parts rather than XT-CF.
     
  15. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    If you have any suggestions, I have noted on the inside of corners it leaves loops of filament sometimes. It is like it coasted past the inside of the corner leaving a loop. Is that a coasting issue, or do I need to slow down?
     
  16. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    I don't think it's a coasting issue unless you have coasting set. Speed is possibly the problem, also leaving loops on the inside of corners seems to indicate an adhesion problem as over-speed usually manifests itself as lumpy corners on the outer edge with possible ringing after it for pure X or Y transitions. Adhesion is of course a temperature dependent item too so a slight upward tweak of that may help. Your part is quite small and I wonder if a smaller nozzle size might help but swapping nozzles is a pain . . . oh for a quick change hotend setup. The biggest problem is that we expect perfection from our 3D printing just as you regularly achieve with CNC mills etc. but for the latter the variables are much more in control and fewer and that is where one expects S3D to be the saviour but with a steep extended learning curve! For me I have come to grips with one filament and its foibles on one machine but I start again with the BigBox . . . when it's finished! For us, this forum is a godsend!!
     
  17. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    It was particularly noticeable on the drawer above. The adhesion is great in general on the piece, and it was specifically on 2 corners and not on the others (this of course may be a slicing problem due to S3D).
     
  18. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    Ah, you cunningly hid that! ;) Yes, I did not think of the slicer. If it's repeated on subsequent parts from the same gcode, you could investigate the code in S3D to see if there are any strange tools movements. I would view it in Repetier Host, which has, IMHO, a better rendition of gcode if not the fancy tool movements of S3D.
     
  19. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    I didn't hide it @mike01hu, just shaved them off for post-processing (they aren't particularly adhered) with the spatula. Now I am printing a flat rack (as in rack and pinion) which is utterly flat with the teeth on the side, and happens to be L-shaped. What I am noticing is that when S3D moves to make the new random start point there is often some drool across the 2 arms of the inside of the L (doesn't make it more than half-way across the angle) but clearly is drool, not extrusion deliberately. If you look at the picture below you can see where it is doing it (I drew those in, but that's what it looks like)

    [​IMG]

    Now I did some changes before this, which included finally getting around to autopidtuning at 250 and slowing the speed down to 35. I am using the 0.4 nozzle and doing 0.15 layers with .85 as the ratio. This is going to be a failed print anyway as I clearly have water absorbed into the nylon (it's rained here for 2 days straight and I can hear popping and see some places where adherence was affected since that ties up the H-bonds of the nylon) but it is a good test of these settings. If I lower the speed do I need to do anything else?
     
  20. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    918
    Likes Received:
    183
    @Henry feldman my most successful attempts to stop drool on travel moves involve:

    - setting XY motion speed to max (150mm/s is the limit set in firmware - in the default profile I think it was just half of that);

    - reducing the nozzle temperature;

    I'm still waiting for someone to explain retraction to me and whether / how fine tuning those settings can deal with it.
     

Share This Page