Mine is set to 80. Is that the speed when not printing? (e.g. traversing empty space) as opposed to the Default Printing Speed, which actually I currently have at 30 for this test.
exactly so if you set it to 150 the gaps will be covered nearly twice as fast I once did an experiment printing 10mm cubes in various locations around the bed and watching the nozzle travel between them. You could see ooze building up on the outside of cubes after a 20cm travel distance, but not really anything at 10cm. And you could even see, if you got low, where the nozzle was on its trajectory when the ooze bubble started to appear on the tip. Then I'd play with the XY speed....
It is that horrible word "compromise" again and, as @R Design hints, retraction is one of the black arts that has to be fiddled with coupled with the extra feed after retraction. It is essential to keep notes of retraction settings for every filament, even of the same colour and from the same supplier. In your case, you are printing with a material that I have no experience with and I am at a loss to make deeper recommendations. It is interesting that water absorption is high on nylon and that must have an effect on hotend performance i.e. one of those crap variables that you have only limited control over, other than super dry storage or a cassette feed system with desiccant incorporated that some dedicated users have designed. I said elsewhere that I always remove and store my filament after use even if it's only for a few hours, just to reduce the risk . . . yes, I have had my nozzle puffing steam like an old steam engine! I have spent hours watching the printer spewing out filament to try and catch such print offences and have I been successful? . . . No, just sometimes.
Oh, I knew this would happen, since Taulman recommends baking the spool in the oven for ~90 minutes before every print... Yeah, like I have time for that! They now have an alternative design with a metal bucket with a 60W trouble light inside that keeps the filament hot all the time and, but geez that would literally offset my savings from the massive solar array on my roof to leave that on al the time! I do have a airtight box with several pounds of desiccant in muslin bags for storage, but given I am printing one thing after another, this was bound to happen. I will bake the spool tonight at the "keep warm" setting of the oven.
Nylon has a particular kind of toughness, but given all its fussiness, how about Colorfabb HT for your purposes? They have a datasheet and it looks pretty good.
THis may not be the best spot- do you have any links for how to set up Repetier/slicer to create good gcode for the Bigbox? Also- has any one tried the usb link to move files back and forth? If this is the wrong place could you direct me on where may be helpful? I've been using a Solidoodle and am probably behind the curve on how I should be doing things...
@Hanks Try creating a thread with an appropriate title in the "Calibration/Troubleshooting" forum where lots of people will see it.
For me one big issue is FDA approved materials since I work in the medical space. Also Nylon can be tapped/machined/sandblasted/etc.
In the "key attributes" section they cite FDA compliance. It's an Eastman product. http://colorfabb.com/files/AmphoraHT5300-TDS.pdf
I'm familiar, but not sure what FDA "compliant" means. The nylons you can print with come with a FDA certification and a physical slip of paper you'd need to file.
Me neither. However in your shoes I'd definitely be looking around for alternatives to nylon. It's far from being a panacea filament - indeed there isn't one.
@Henry feldman for that model I wouldn't let it choose random start positions. I'd figure out where I want the seam and select x,y start positions to put it there (typically somewhere hidden). If you want to make sure it's actually on a specific corner in that sort of design, rotate 45 degrees.
Yeah, that totally makes sense. When you say rotate, you mean the model or the start points (I'd assume rotating the model would change the mechanical attributes as I assume 90 degree extrusions are way smoother?)?
Everything is extruded at 90 degrees to the bed My last printer would certainly not have been excited about two different models printed at different angles, so it's one of the things I tested on this one straight away. The only thing to think about when twisting the model is if you want to also twist the infill. Give it a whirl. I guarantee you'll be impressed with how little rotation matters. Oh I meant to rotate the model ..
