Gregs BigBox IDEX Titan Aero With Linear Rail

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by EASI3D, Sep 12, 2017.

  1. dc42

    dc42 Well-Known Member

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    The M208 commands in config.g specify the movement limits, which are also the positions assumed when the homing switches are triggered. So you can adjust them to put the X=0 Y=0 position wherever you want it to be. Your slicer also needs to be configured according to that choice.
     
  2. Hugofitz

    Hugofitz Active Member

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    I'm finally back to my IDEX build and I've assembled the Misumi rail and have the same issue as you orcinus, I feel your pain. It's surprising the amount of movement by the time you get to the nozzle. If I were to start from scratch I'd probably use a wider rail to reduce the leverage on the narrow rail.
    I'm about to get in touch with Misumi tech support to see if I can get the rail swapped. I see what you're saying about the rail being upside down but looking a the physics of how the linear rails work it shouldn't really matter which way up they are, I think the slop is created by the raceways in the block being very slightly too far apart, thus doesn't really matter which way up it is.
     
  3. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I'm trying to revisit my IDEX. nearly all done with the build phase. History; previous rock solid DuetWifi with Titans. I removed the entire X-Carriage, rods and motors in one piece should I fail with IDEX and want to go back to a functional system.

    The new X-Carriage for IDEX is built and installed. Although the Y belts are not a tight as I would like, it should be marginally ok. I'm re-checking all my wiring and comparing against other posts with pictures. I doubt I will get this working on the the first power up. It would be helpful if someone posted a color picture of the HOW they wired their IDEX with labels for wires.
     
  4. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

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    I have read more than once that linear rails are intended to be run in pairs, when I decide to switch to 3030 extrusion frame and linear rails I will use a 2020 (or smaller if I can find any) as a X axis with 2 linear rails in different faces of the beam to eliminate ALL play :D
     
    #364 gonzalo, Nov 7, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2018
  5. Julian64

    Julian64 Well-Known Member

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    Not much activity on this thread. Just to say for anyone still progressing that my Linear rail model has been running for the last six months. It has just been restarted running Marlin 1.9 and everything looks fine.

    Prints very well in two colours Thanks to Greg for the original idea for this. It is so much more of a printer than the original dual hybrid which never worked well for me.

    This should have been the dual big box from the start. Future plans include sticking the pezio bed sensor in both heads for automatic levelling but to be honest after a single calibration its still pretty much on the spot.
     
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  6. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    Julian,
    I'm still working on mine. I'm trying to verify my electrical wiring for the DuetWifi and Duet5. Prior to IDEX i was running very happily just the DuetWifi. But its more complex now. Would you or someone have a wiring diagram with hopefully labeled wires I could follow Specific to the BigBox ? I have config files, so wiring is my next step.
     
  7. Julian64

    Julian64 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I made the decision to stick with the Rumba. It was working fine with the hybrid and it seemed a bit wasteful to abandon it for the duet.
    I went from 1.6 to 1.9 in a single jump expecting disaster but in reality it was straightforward.
    Perhaps for the next build when this multi head thing becomes a gooer.
     
  8. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

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    Hey! I am still on rumba, I would love to move up on my marlin version, would you share your 1.9 files?
    Thank you so much!
     
  9. Julian64

    Julian64 Well-Known Member

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    Okay these are the only three files you need to copy over the Marlin 1.9 standard files
    Point to note.

    1) make sure all your motor wires are standard apart from the second X Axis where you have to reverse the red and blue wires in the connector.

    2) It assumes standard positions for the hotends in firmware. It will get you going and the bigbox will run. Worth testing the whole system out to make sure motors run the right way etc before proceeding. When you do this and are sending G code commands move the first extruder into the middle of the plate before using T1 to switch extruder. T1 will cause the first extruder to park and the second extruder to replace WHEREVER the first one currently is. So if you type T1 when the first extruder is parked there will be hitting!!

    3) You need to calibrate your machine at some point. The end result of which will be a M218 command which will override those firmware settings for XY and Z offsets, and make it specific for your machine. Note the simplify fff contains a starting script which incorporates this......for my machine....you need to tweak it for yours, but you should find my settings quite close

    Hopefully that'll have it all running for you on 1.9.
     

    Attached Files:

    #369 Julian64, Nov 27, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2018
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  10. Julian64

    Julian64 Well-Known Member

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    BTW if you want the compiled file let me know
     
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  11. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

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    Thank you!!!!!
     
  12. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I'm truly debating if I should revert back to single extruder, original rods and my DuetWifi. I fear that If I didnt wire up the duet add-on and other items I may fry something. I still have my original X Carriage still intact from a year ago.
     
  13. jfb

    jfb Well-Known Member

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    All depends on how much you want to try it I suppose - for me, I enjoy the experimentation. My personal opinion is that the hardware is fairly robust, so you're unlikely to cause any damage by (eg) plugging a fan or motor in wrong - just follow the docs and heed any particular warnings (eg make sure the power is connected the right way round).

    In all, it's down to what you want to do and what you feel comfortable with, though personally I'd say go for it and try it - you bought/printed/sourced all the parts, so may as well go ahead :) If you do decide to go ahead, I think you'll end up with a more versatile machine, as well as having learned a few things.

    If you don't plug anything into the Duex 2/5 then it can't fry anything - I got mine working with not too many issues, and didn't fry anything even while being notoriously fumble-fingered so it's not too bad. Unfortunately I've since taken it all apart again because I wanted to fit some optical end stops and lights and so on. Not had a chance to put it all back together yet so no photos - sorry :( I think I'll move the electronics out of the base though when I do put it back together this time, because I really hate taking the base off!

    There is a lot of documentation about, but it can be difficult to find what you need. What I'd suggest if you're unsure about it is set up one extruder/carriage on the Duet more or less as you had it previously, ignoring the second carriage for now - just manually park it at one end until you have the first one working. Then just be methodical setting up the second - If it's any consolation I found it easier than I was expecting. Just take it one step at a time, and use the docs and Duet forum.
     
  14. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    It's the electronics wiring that has me stopped at the moment. I have no clear direction. That's why I asked for others that DID do this IDEX for input. Pictures with descriptions will be greatly appreciated.
     
  15. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    @Steven
    If you have a config, the wiring should be derived from it or vice versa?
    In the end all you have is an additional axis and 2 hot ends. I can send you my config - from which my wiring should be evident - or is there any particular issue regarding wiring that you require assistance with?

    My machine is running IDEX with BLTouch and separate drivers for Z.

    Have to open up my machine at least to some extent today because a cable broke and I have to replace it so I could get you the info you'd need maybe?
     
  16. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I tend to work best with pictures and labels. But yes, please and thank you for any help. I _had_ my bigbox dialed in pretty good with just the DuetWifi. So I I dont know what changes I need to adjust to incorporate the Duet5 and its wiring. Basically I need direction.
     
  17. dc42

    dc42 Well-Known Member

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    I can't help with the BigBox IDEX specifically, but the generic DueX5 wiring instructions are at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duex2_and_Duex5_Features.

    If you will be using someone else's firmware configuration files then I suggest you connect the additional fans and stepper motors to the same outputs as that person used. Otherwise it doesn't matter which outputs you use, because it can all be configured in firmware. I suggest:

    Fan 0 - X print cooling fan
    Fan 1 - X heatsink fan
    Fan 2 - U heatsink fan
    Fan 3 - U print cooling fan
    Driver 4 (labelled E1 motor on the Duet) - U extruder
    Driver 5 (labelled E2 on the DueX5) - U axis

    The U endstop switch is the only connection that is fixed, it must be connected to the E0 endstop input on the Duet.

    HTH David
     
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