I will get them on here (or thingiverse/or both) once I have had a chance to test everything. Seems sturdy enough at the moment.
My cable chain arrived from China, this is a 10x6 with a biro for size reference. Much better than the 10x15 I ordered previously. Just waiting on the rail and then I can build!
Did you check the turn radius? I bought a bigger one hoping to slide the motor connectors easier but the turn radius was bigger and it didn’t fit between the frame and the carriage.
Now I'm home I've checked it and it fits fine. It has 10x6 on it but its more like 10mm by 10mm. I have two so will still use them.
D-sub plugs and sockets wired. Belt tensioner tested. Left my x-carriage motors at work will have to nip in tomorrow and pick them up. Hopefully by the end of next week it will all be up and running! Of course I will still have to battle with the config of my duet but hopefully some of you lovely lot can help me out there. Nudge nudge wink wink.
My battle with config is going right now I dont get it how those tfree.g tpost.g and tpre.g working. When and what call them to use? I dont see that to in g-code file. I try to do it like Alex have and what he posted in other thread put still have wierd things. I have in tpost0.g and tpost1.g file prime and dock moves. When i start "print only left" it works fine but when i start "print only right" it dont work.
This wiki page https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_multiple_independent_X-carriages_on_a_Cartesian_printer may help.
I thought about doing this so many times, Looks amazing! Did you stretch the x axis a little bit so there isn't so much of a battle trying to hit the full 300 with both hotends? The other thing I am curious about, how do plan to house the electronics?
It was something I considered. But wasn’t sure how much spare I would have on the rail. Turns out it shouldn’t be a problem. I could always replace the parts of the frame down the line to increase it. As is, I think I have a touch more width but nothing major. For the electronics I am going to mount the current acrylic base to the rear. Then once everything is up and running replace it with either a new acrylic or aluminium panel. Much easier to access on the back for the inevitable upgrades. Very happy with the D-Sub connections. One cable to carry all the required connections (bltouch not included). They are also very easy to put together.
According to the specs I could find, each pin takes a max of 5A. Standard D-Sub cables are a max of 24awg wire which would be close but I thought it would be safer to go for a healthy factor of safety and have 22awg which is more than enough. The highest draw comes from the heater (1.6A) which is only on full for a short period and then in small bursts. The motors don’t take a lot and everything else is negligible. If the worst happens I still have 3 pins of the 15 free so I could split the heater current across 4 pins, but I really don’t think it will be an issue.
I don't have time to search at present, but I seem to recall that nophead used a DB9 connector on his HydraRaptor printer. You may be able to find more details on http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/ Also somewhere on there was some discussion of wire gauges and using ribbon cables.
Yeah I read that a while back. It seems it worked fine. I have been looking for a smaller solution, you can get a 15 pin d-sub in a 9 pin form factor. The trade off is it drops to 3A per pin. Which again shouldn’t be an issue. For now though I am sticking with what I have. Should have some motion tomorrow if all goes to plan.
Went for 10mm misumi rods. Currently I have all the belts in place and tensioned. One aero mounted and the cable loops in. Just need to fit second aero and connect the wiring to the duet.
Quick update! Got some sexy orange plexiglass cut for the electronics. Also a few images with the d-sub connections installed.
