Has anyone used Greg's new design for IR sensor mount?

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by wfredette, May 4, 2016.

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  1. wfredette

    wfredette Well-Known Member

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    This post straddles this forum and the one about mods, but since I'm interested in it to try to solve some problems I'm having, I'll post it here.

    Has anyone tried this? It's a different mount for the IR sensor that takes it off of the print head. Greg posted it looking for feedback, but there were no comments on the Thingiverse page. So, just wondering...
     
  2. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps @Greg Holloway could post here to let us know what he is expecting from this, the reasoning, whether it suits all printers and whether any firmware fixes are needed.
     
  3. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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    It was just an idea. People were talking about the issues with repeat-ability and that they are now using Mesh leveling. I moved the IR Sensor to the bed so it no longer attaches to the printhead and uses the fixed location of the upper support to position itself.

    You will need to have mesh leveling enabled to use it, it will work with any BigBox.
     
  4. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    This sounds interesting, might give it a go!
     
  5. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    I reckon the way to test this would be to run a couple of wires from the bed, down the OUTSIDE of the chain, into the base through a nut trap to one side of it, and then over to the Rumba.

    Then simply wedge the new part between the planes of the bed.

    That way it wouldn't be necessary to take ANYTHING apart in order to discover out how well it works.
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I am looking forward for an automated mesh bed leveling. For this the sensor has to be attached to the head...
    But theres still to check the repeatability of the IR sensor...
     
  7. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    I wish that guy would just release the code he has written even though it's not ready for prime time.
     
  8. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    What I am wondering is why it is just not possible to use a probe for mesh bed leveling now. Just use the probe instead of the manual measuring...
     
  9. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    The biggest problem I have with the paper thing is that it's just not accurate. I concentrate really hard trying to get the same "feeling" each time but it's just not possible.
     
  10. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    What I started to do is watching the sliver of light between the nozzle and the bed, once that disappears I teach the point. This may not work for everyone but I am having fantastic results with this over the paper method.
     
  11. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    @Miasmictruth do you meditate? :D

    Maybe I need some LEDs or some glasses to get this one to work!
     
    JesperJuul likes this.
  12. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Lol, just a little back lighting and its not that hard to see I don't think. Now that I have the method down I can do all 9 points extremely fast as compared to the paper method and it also seems to be highly consistent.
     
  13. JesperJuul

    JesperJuul Well-Known Member

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    Guys, just get a set of feeler gauges, they are next to nothing in China-land. :)
     
  14. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Snap. Been doing that for a long time now. Fast. Accurate.

    They knock out feeler gauges with zero thickness? I thought the point of bed leveling was to level to z=zero?
     
  15. Steven Burns

    Steven Burns Well-Known Member

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    If you level to exactly zero you will not extrude anything on the first layer. The reason for the paper/feeler is to set a minimal gap to get a good first layer and the appropriate height to get good bed adhesion.
     
  16. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    I'm kinda new to mesh levelling but my view is presently that the idea is to get all 9 points set to the "same" level - whatever that is.

    Afterwards I fiddle with the Z offset in the Gcode tab in Simplify 3d - over the next few prints or print-attempts - until the 1st layer is going down just right. Once I've done that for a 0.1mm layer print then it's really been perfected. I just have to remember to use the same offset in Simplify each time I slice a new print.

    Is that a bad system?

    When there seems some patch where the first layer is different to the rest of the bed, since mesh compensates for any sag there might be in the rods, I'm left wondering if a) the glass is a bit wonky; b) if my "feeling" of the paper is not consistent. I get a little angry with the glass but rather suspect it's just me!
     
  17. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Not true. Your first layer will move the head to the height of the first layer. This will be, say, 0.25 if that's your layer height, or slightly less if you've chosen to crush the first layer. You can read this information on the LCD. You get the Z all the time. If you get your paper wrong, you're Z will not be at the height the slicer programmed the print for and, as some mentioned, the paper is different every time. Probably adjusting by eye is also different every time, so maybe there's no much difference.
     
  18. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I don't think there's a right and wrong here. Your print tells you if you have a good system.
     
  19. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Is there any reason why the IR unit could not be mounted on the top support on a modified lead screw cap to look at the bed?
     
  20. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Yes. The head needs that space and the bed is higher than the top of the side supports when at Z0 to about Z15 (?)...
     

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