I am completely stumped on my clogging issues. I just purchased a e3d v6 24v. I have assembled it per the instructions. I am currently trying to print petg and will clog about 3 layers up. It appears I have some heat creep as the bottom of the heat sink is extremely warm where it is almost to hot to touch. The fan is moving in the correct direction and the heat break is level with the block. Everything was tightened at 285c retraction turned completely off and the correct thermistor was set in the config. I am out of ideas and desperate. I been running clones on all the rest of my printers and decided when it time to replace my primary I would go with genuine e3d and I have not been able to get this to work.
what size nozzle do these come with? The nozzle is not labeled but I noticed that manual push there is a lot of resistance. I just swapped the nozzle over to a clone 0.4 and it seems to push easier.
V6's ship with a 0.4mm nozzle, I would suggest doing a cold pull to make sure your nozzle is clean. What temperature are you printing at? and does the print start to struggle when the part cooling fan turns on?
I am not running a cooling fan as I am trying to print petg. I tried at various temps as low as 235c and as high as 260c. The only time it seems to flow easy with a manual push is when I crank it up to 280.
Thermal paste is not an optional step it ensures heat transfer from the heatbreak to the heatsink is effective. Heatcreep would be the result of failing to use the thermal paste, the symptoms of which is jamming.
I bought a genuine E3D V6 2 weeks ago and have only completed 1 print of 20 or so. I did not use thermal paste as my package did not come with thermal paste from E3D. (Amazon Fullfilled) Crap, so that step is missing. Is there another thermal compound that is an upgrade or should I reach out to E3D to get a direct replacement? Now I have to let my printer sit for a week or longer. I will see if this fixes my extreme frustration with printing Inland PETG. This is good information. KP
Do you have a nearby electronics/computer store of any sort? They will have thermal paste that is used on CPU coolers.
I was looking into that late last night, and I read the thermal paste for CPUs is not good for this application. Temperature ranges was the Achilles hill.
Ok don't know that they are acceptable with great confidence. However, mostly the thermal paste shouldn't get very hot. The heat sink is supposed to be carrying the heat away, and the heat conductivity of the stainless throat is terrible compared to that of the aluminum heatsink, so most of the temperature drop should be across the stainless, with its outside being quite cool. This is not at all the case for the people that put thermal paste on either their hot-end heater or the temperature sensor. That does have to be a very specialized paste. I did look on the GD site http://ourgd.net/ (they make the grease sold by E3D), and it takes a lot of poking to get the specs on the greases. If you look, though, at the photograph of the 1 kg tubs of each of the white greases, you can see that they are all rated from -50C to 200C, so I think the differences are not the heat tolerance. Most of these are sold as CPU-cooling greases with various heat conductivities and viscosities.
Boron Nitride thermal paste seems ideal for this application. Remains stable well over 500°C. I have a siringe of the stuff, but I didn't use it yet, so no personal experience unfortunately.
I thought I would update. No Paste yet but it is coming tomorrow. Yay. However, I have it running a Benchy without clog yet. Here is my problem and hopefully no one will duplicate it. When I got my new E3D V6 hotend I was excited to learn more about PETG on higher temps and faster prints. After all that is why I got it. The E3D .4mm nozzle printed great. I also got a nozzle pack with my new Hotend and decided to play around with different nozzle sizes after the 1 print of a perfect baby Yoda I switched to a 1mm standard stock nozzle. 1mm almost completed. but not quite. .6mm couldn't get past 15 layers come to find out that the distance of the nozzle thread inside the block wasn't long enough to keep the heat sink from sitting on the block. This caused alot of heatcreap. Yep. I'm a noob Moral of the story. "Use the right friggen nozzles with the right dimensions". 3 days wasted. 4 blacked clogged nozzles(I'm sure I could reuse them). 1 roll of PETG.(mostly cut up to remove it) I now have E3D nozzles coming. Kevin
