Heating Failed

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Niklas Malmström, Apr 10, 2016.

  1. Niklas Malmström

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    I am on the Printer Commissioning part for my new BB and I got an error when I try to heat up the nozzle to 285 deg. It goes slowly up to 100 deg and then I get "Heating Failed".
    Does anyone know what I have made wrong?
     
  2. MikeP-NZ

    MikeP-NZ Member

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    Hi Niklas,
    Make sure you have the sensors plugged in to the correct board. When you turn on extruder 1 make sure that it's extruder 1 temperature you see going up.
    When you say slowly, it should take about 40 seconds to get from 25° to 100°C
    If it's taking much longer than that then check your heater wiring. Make sure you have the two yellow wires connected well and if that looks ok then measure the heater resistance with a multimeter. Turn off the power first and you don't need to disconnect them from the board. Just measure across the terminals.
    Should be around 20ohms. ±2 ohms is fine.
     
  3. Niklas Malmström

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    I measured the recistans and I got 74.5 Ohm. Is that the reason that I can't reach more than 100 deg?
     
  4. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    @Niklas Malmström I'd say so.

    Power = V^2 / R

    If you've got 3* the resistance you've got 1/3 of the power.

    ;(

    Sounds like you should contact support with that information.
     
  5. Niklas Malmström

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    Thanks for the help, Support next....
     
  6. Niklas Malmström

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    Support have sent a new Heating-cartridge but I have not got it yet. I did order another one from a Swedish Company 40W/24V 6x20 and tried it with no luck. The resistance is now 13.9 Ohm but I only get 139 deg at most. What else could be wrong? I also notised that my PT100 cable don't look like the cable on the pictures in the online manual.
     
  7. Niklas Malmström

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    I have tried Everything now (I Think :)) but with no luck. I have tested the Heating-cartridge and the PT100 as good as I can and they seems to work fine. The only thing I can Think of is that the hotend fan cools it down to much. Can i turn down the speed of the fan or do I wreck something else if I do. If not, how do I do it? Please help me.
     
  8. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Yes the hotend easily gets overcooled by the fans. You can easily set the fans down (note the number in the control is 0-255 NOT percentage, so 100 is a reasonable value). The fans are way, way overpowered for the need here, so you rarely need it up very high. In addition the chute pours a lot of air onto the heater. First off make sure the fan duct is low enough to put most of the air below the heater block, then if that doesn't work people are trying Kapton tape on the side of the block to try and keep the air from over cooling the block. I've found that with the fan over 50% for any length of time and I get thermal runaway (I can burst higher for bridging but not for very long)
     
  9. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    I'm assuming you have a "dual" so you have two PT100 boards etc.

    I had the connections to the PT100 cards (in the base) the wrong way round, so I was heating up heater block 1 but measuring the temperature on block 2. This gave me the "heating failed" message. Block 1 got to about 100oC not 285.

    If you have the dual then check on the front panel (the main screen shows the set temp and actual temp of hotend 1, hotend 2 and the heated bed) as suggested by MikeP-NZ that you are heating heater block 1 and not 2.

    When measuring the heater resistance try it disconnected from the Rumba board.

    If you have a dual you can also swap heaters and PT100 sensors, but I guess you would have done this if you had a dual?

    The hotend fans should turn on a 40oC (as it says in Commissioning) both fans (for the dual) come on regardless of which heater is on.
    There is no control for these fans (Henry do you mean the print cooling fans? which should not be on for this nozzle tightening exercise? ) and if the fan is not on (once you have filament in the hotend) then the filament will melt in the heat sink and completely clog it up.

    Take care when connecting the heater cables to the Rumba board. The green connector blocks are loose and twist, this could break a connection or make it high resistance (which is why it may be better to disconnect the heater to measure its resistance.... just to be absolutely sure. I hold the green connector blocks with long nosed pliers when tightening the screws.

    If you have a dual then as I mentioned above you can swap heaters, PT100 sensors etc.

    Assuming we all receive the same Rumba board then you will have two heater connections. If you think the heater itself is ok, then you could use the second heater connection on the Rumba board (so select the second hotend in the menu) and see if this works.
     
  10. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Oh, I was assuming he meant the real cooling fans, not the heatbreak fans.
     
  11. Niklas Malmström

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    Old_tarf: It's a PRO and not a dual BB so most of the hints from you can't be done but I will try to test the last thing (Use the second heater Connection) tomorrow.
    Henry feltman: Mabye I was unclear ... sorry!

    Thanks for the help and if anyone else have som ideas about things that could be the trubbel then don't hessitate to write it here :)
     
  12. Kick2box

    Kick2box Well-Known Member

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    Could you post a picture? Did you use the correct connection on the Rumba?
     
  13. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    Lots of options if you have two heater connections (which I assume we all have) like.... set them BOTH to 100 (or both to any figure) and just measure if you get volts, which if they are both working should be the same.

    This gives you a starting point to work from.

    Then move on to as suggested above.......... do you have the heater connections crossed, i.e. 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 ?

    As Kick2box send a picture ! (don't worry if wires are everywhere, most people's wiring is messy :)
     
  14. Niklas Malmström

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    I found the error. I have not mounted the extruder correctly! I rebuilt it and started to print but it started to leak filament between the hotzink and heater block. Is it ok that the heater block is so loose? When I cleaned it up I wrecked the PT100 so now I have to wait a week for a new PT100.
    I found some Pictures from other BB builders and they had the same PT100 as I had so I Think the PT100 was ok.
     
  15. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    I made a few mistakes with the extruder too in my eagerness to get started.

    You have to follow the v6 instructions (separate from the build manual) very carefully (which is difficult also because most of them seem to be about thermistors and not relevant).

    The "heat break" ends up being locked tight because at a certain point you heat up the assembly to 280C and tighten the nozzle against it.

    At the other end the heat break goes into the (cold) heat sink and that part is only "finger tight".

    Nothing should be loose or the nozzle will wobble during printing.

    Never turn off the Extruder fan on the heat sink or hot plastic could rise up into the heat break (which itself becomes hot) and then everything gets jammed up and very difficult to clean!

    ps my pT100 is a very tight fit and I've risked wrecking it moving it back and forth from Volcano. Should get a spare.
     
  16. Niklas Malmström

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    I can't finger tight it att all. It's loose in this end. If I shall finger tight it the heat zink and heat block will come together and that was the error made before.
     
  17. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Read the e3d wiki on how to setup the v6.

    The bit about putting the nozzle in, loosening half a turn, tightening the heat break against it, then tightening the nozzle against it with a spanner, then heating to 280C and tightening again.

    That will solve your plastic leaking problems.

    However I don't think it will do anything for your Heater Failed error, unless by chance you had - and have now destroyed! - a faulty PT100.
     
  18. Niklas Malmström

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    I just wanna say that I got a new PT100 by snail mail and now it all works! Thank you all for the help!
     
  19. Michael Frampton

    Michael Frampton Well-Known Member

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    Mine just done it twice.now 3rd time its fine
     

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