SOLVED HELP; many problems going from 1.0 to 1.1 hybrid titan

Discussion in 'Build Help' started by Steven, Jun 18, 2016.

  1. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I started with my BB-1.0 dual running RC6.
    I bought the dual titan hybrid upgrade.
    I also bought two pancake stepper motors; 17HS10-0704S 1.8deg
    I started the hybrid carriage build, but also started the printing of Chase's dual direct titan parts. Mainly because if I can get the parts printed correctly then I will opt for Chase's design as I ultimately want two direct titans.
    Several issues;
    The 1.1 hybrid carriage has its bed leveling sensor on the left. When the carriage is moved all the way to the end stop, the sensor is over the frame arm and NOT the bed.
    Where does the second snail fan go?
    I mounted the new pancake stepper motor for the hybrid direct titan side (on right side of the carriage). I had to swap the middle red and green wires. This seems to work fine when the hotend is at temp, the titan will move. I have not done any calibration as the bed sensor needs to be fixed first. However, I tested the second pancake motor on the other extruder wires. Swapped the middle two, but the stepper motor does NOT move like it should; it stutters, stops etc. I tested the stepper on the other working side, and it worked fine.
    How do I fix the left side one?
    I have not yet upgraded to Hybrid rc 6; i gather i would need the mirrored firmware?
     
  2. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    1. IR Sensor, You need the Dual Hybrid firmware - This has safe z homing enabled which will home the x and y axis, and the move the head to a certain spot on the bed, and then home the Z axis.

    2. This design only uses one fan on the rear.

    3. There is a chance that your motor driver might be bad. A good way to test it is to swap the motor plugs and test the "bad" motor on the working side driver.

    4. You don't need the mirrored firmware, All it does is switch the extruders (I think) so the E0 is on the left, and E1 is the right. The non-mirrored makes the right extruder the main, E0, extruder. This was a preference of Alex that the E0 was the left and E1 was the right. E3D did it they way they did it so the "Main" extruder, the direct drive titan on the right, was the first or default extruder for the slicers. At least this is how I understood all of this.
     
  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Unfortunately you are not right...
    It is just the other way round... E3D sets it up so the the LEFT hotend is always T0/main/Extruder 1... This applies to all setups Pro, Dual, Hybrid Pro, Hybrid Dual. As for a Pro you have only one hotend so this is the left...

    I did the mirrored stuff because I wanted the LEFT DIRECT extruder the main. On a Hybrid Dual you have only one DIRECT so... And I wanted to be this one the main...
     
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  4. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    I knew you wouldn't be too far behind to make it right ;)
     
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  5. Mirandur

    Mirandur Member

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    Let me get this straight: E3D set it up so the left extruder is the main. You wanted the left extruder to be main, so you mirrored it....

    I thought the right extruder was the direct, so, if I'm right, you made the right extruder the left, and the left the right, and the right way to do this is to make a new, mirrored, carriage, right? -Or, and you just switched the left and right and made the right the main.

    -I'm confused, now...
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I wanted the LEFT DIRECT to be the main. There is only one direct on a Hybrid head which is then the most left direct extruder...
     
  7. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

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    He hasn't physically changed anything on the carriage, he just has his extruders wired up so that the "first" hotend in Marlin/Simplify 3D is the direct extruder, whereas if you follow the build manual the Bowden extruder is the first extruder. But it doesn't make much difference if you use Alex's profiles as he has set them up so which ever way you connect them the correct extruder is used as a reference. For some people it's just more logical for the first extruder to be the main extruder. I use the E3D style because it doesn't really bother me.
     
  8. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    That's right. "Mirrored" refers to the style I cabled the box and how the firmware is set up...
     
  9. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    Both stepper motors are fine and work fine when wired on the right side (dirrect).
    When I connect the left side wires to the pancake motor it get the odd stuttering.

    Yes I swapped the red and green wires on both.
    Esteps is still set to 304. any other firmware settings that need to be changed?
     
  10. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    uhh, it looks like if you left the wires the same, all you needed to do was invert the x axis...
     
  11. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    no. this is the wiring and steppers for the extruders.
     
  12. Chase.Wichert

    Chase.Wichert Well-Known Member

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    Ohhh okay I was thinking of the other post..
     
  13. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    Could RC6 (not yet upgraded to Hybrid Dual) do this to stepper motors?
    I will say that this upgrade to Hybrid Titan has not been pleasant. Especially since I have only been able to get the stock benchy to print reliably.
    USB direct printing from S3D or RH has not been proven reliable and repeatable. I'm hoping the new titans and Hybrid firmware will make things better.
     
  14. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    any ideas.. anyone?
    I may need to go back to BB 1.0.
     
  15. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

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    Did you try swapping over the driver boards as Chase suggested? You've already proved the problem isn't the motor, so that's the next thing to eliminate. Also check the voltages you've set for the driver that works vs the one that doesn't.
     
  16. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I have not yet swapped over the driver boards. but all drivers boards were working and voltage set prior to the hybrid swap.
    But I will re-check those tonight.
     
  17. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I tested each driver board. All show between .56 and .58v.
    I also found out that TWO of my driver boards are somehow BLOWN!
    DO NOT USE PANCAKE STEPPER MOTORS: 17HS10-0704S
    I swapped in a spare driver board from my Pruse i3. By process of deduction, the use of the pancake motors blew the drivers. I i move the blown driver boards to another socket, then that motor (stock BB motor) wont move or is jittery.
    I can move and predict what will work or not now that I know which boards are blown.

    HAS ANYONE SUCCESSFULLY used these pancake steppers?

    to add insult to injury, when i was disassembling the stock motors from the BB-1.0 carriage, one of the arms holding the motor broke. I make see if some acetone will fix it. If I go back to BB-1.0.

    Plus I'm super annoyed that even with being a late receiver of a kickstarter campaign, (#465ish i think) I got a BB that was not the latest BB 1.1 hybrid.
     
  18. Mark_T

    Mark_T Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure I follow the logic here, I may be wrong perhaps, but did the 1.1 hybrid even exist at the time your Kickstarter order shipped?
     
  19. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I can't believe that you could not get it working... I would disconnect the motors and the adjust the ref voltage to something really low and then reconnect the motors to come from a lower point when adjusting the voltage to the new motors.
    Stepper motors are really nothing special. Just a bunch of coils and magnets you send current through. So yes maybe if you send too much current then it blows something that's why I start at the lower edge...
     
  20. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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