Help needed to dial it in

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Steven, May 23, 2016.

  1. Mark_T

    Mark_T Well-Known Member

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    The standard setup is still 0.9 on the extruder.

    Putting 1.8 on there is just a way to reduce weight if that is what you want.

    Just an option, not a requirement.
     
  2. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I successfully swapped the motors. AND I was able to print a full benchy, although the quality is subpar.
    This is a BB-1.0-Dual
    Octave White PLA, at 210deg, 80deg bed.

    The first layer seemed very bumpy.
    Also, after Auto-Home, and the the travel to and from the ooze dumpster, the nozzle is right on the bed, enough to scratch the Kapton tape. How do I adjust that? Will that help with the overall quality?
     

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  3. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    Did you re level the bed?
     
  4. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    Did you print this with the E3D supplied benchy file, or did you slice it yourself ?
     
  5. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    That looks like a combination of temperature and over-extrusion. Try 200C and 60C, you can play with the extrusion when you start the print job under the TUNE menu by adjusting the FLOW to say 95%; play with that. You will need to level the be better, so are you using mesh levelling or auto?
     
  6. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I'm using the benchy supplied on the sd card from BigBox.
    I did level the bed using mesh.
    When doing the mesh leveling, how tight should the paper be under the nozzle against the bed?
    Low enough to just feel a drag?
    Low enough to be a large feel of drag?
    Low enough that you cant move the paper out?

    Any other adjustments to dial this in?
     
    #26 Steven, May 25, 2016
    Last edited: May 25, 2016
  7. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    Hmm since you use RC3 the tune menu is buggy, does the flow setting work? I never tried it.
    I have some trouble with Nozzle height with RC6, RC3 worked for me.
    If you have the IR sensor re-calibrated as in the manual and mesh bed leveled it should be not scratching the tape... Did you level the bed with Kapton tape or without?
    How close was the nozzle to the bed when you calibrated the IR sensor? as I recall it should barely touching the bed like when you do mesh leveling.
    Or did you by accident set any off set in the LCD? You could restore "factory settings" by "load Failsafe Setting" and "Stor memory" (no feedback) and mesh level again.
     
  8. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I level the bed with kapton tape. i did not set any offset.

    Another thing that's no working; I find I HAVE to unplug the octopi to do any benchy or extruder calibration tasks. Yes the octopi has been loaded, I was able to get a wifi dogle for it and I can get into the web control when it does work. I even pugged in a hdmi handheld screen to see the Pi loading. So i have disconnected the pi until I get the benchy printing fine. which its not right now. a lower bed temp just keeps the extruded pla from sticking.

    Should I be upgrading the firmware from RC3 to RC6 ?
     
    #28 Steven, May 25, 2016
    Last edited: May 25, 2016
  9. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    Do you have the octopi Software connected, I mean on the octoprint gui clicked Connect and it connected successfully? I think in state octoprint will not make Problems, at least it doesn't not for me.
    I think rc6 will not solve the scretching nozzle. Hmm did you change the step/mm for z back to default, if you changed them?

    Honestly I'm out of ideas, only the ir Sensor maybe of, some one said the Sensor must be 1.5mm higher than the nozzle ( that's the height of the belt as I Recall )

    Maybe the ir Sensor is "damaged" e.g. the ir Diode is bend and out of Focus.
     
  10. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately, the paper method is a bit coarse as most paper is about 0.25mm thick but you should be able to feel resistance but be able to push and pull the paper easily. I use a 0.02mm feeler gauge and print a layer-1 test piece to check the thickness. Of course, you can make adjustments for Z offset through the menus once you have done this.
     
  11. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    I am using the light slit method successfully now, @R Design proposed this I think?
    I watch the reflection of the nozzle on the glass and some bright back, move the build plate up until the slit disappears, up and down up and down to be sure where the right height is where is disappears then I move the plate three clicks down. This I do with all the nine spots.
    Then I do the same like @mike01hu print a test piece and adjust the offset until I am pleased.
    The leveling it self is done within a minute now, printing the test piece takes a bit longer but I recommend this despite of the method you level the bed...
     
  12. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    Here is my latest tests with benchy:
    Same Octave PLA white. BB-1.0 dual. RC3 firmware. Now with a tighter Mesh bed level.
    The left most is at 192deg/70deg bed. the middle is at 200deg/70deg bed. the right most is at 210deg/70deg bed.
    I see that 190ish is best for this PLA. But I also see on each print the more the Z bed lowers, the lesser quality of the layers.
    I also see this strange reverberation on the port side bow (left side) it's a mark the goes from layer0 all the way up. seen on the second photo.

    any ideas on how to make this better?
    Bechy1.JPG benchy2.JPG
     
  13. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    This is normal. This is the mark that is left each time the print head stops at a layer. You can alter this in S3D. You should also adjust the print speed for the upper part of the benchy, this is way to high, which causes the blurry appearance and strings.
     
  14. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    How do I adjust the speed via the LCD? and should that be done at the start of the print?
     
  15. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Look at the cooling options. There is an option to slow down if a layer would be printed in less than a specified time.
     
  16. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    Are you still using the 3DBenchy from the SD rom BB/E3D?
    Maybe it is time to switch to self slicing Simplify3D or something where you have control of the setting.
     

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