The calicat and benchy come very well, but the dinosaur and similar big prints, stop extruder after 2 hours, Heat Creep i suppose. I have this jamming problem with a good PLA (sakata3d). Small prints works fine, but then in long prints after 2-3 hours the nozzle clogs, i tried from 190 to 220ยบ, printing at 0.2 layer Height 50mms, retract on 1.mm 35mms). (the layer fan is a 5015 working at 50%) (printer artillery X1, with new PID after hemera instaltion and correct steps by the guide)
Hi Muad, Sorry to hear you are having issues with your Hemera can you confirm that you have adjusted the VREF of your stepper drivers and have made the necessary firmware modifications?
Yes. Im printing now flawsly with the "oiler" trick , i know its not ideal solution, but i need to print jobs. i will chek again all.
What's the oiler trick mate? I'm having similar issues with mine at the moment, especially on prints with which require a few retractions.
I would not recommend oiling the filament. It just builds up gunk inside your hotend. I have done so, and I know the problems it brings. First of all, do what Daniel suggested. Check if your motor has the correct settings amperage. This will prevent overheating both the driver and the motor and the inner assembly (heat CAN leak into the drive gears and then onto the filament). Then check if your tension is correctly set. I usually set it in such a way that I screw it until I can feel that suddenly there is a tiny bit of resistance applied, and then make a total of 3 turns of the knob. Lastly, is this the first time you have used an all-metal hotend? If so, I too had problems with only SOME brands of filaments. Some brands make PLA which is more sticky than other brands, and this seems to then get stuck onto the inner walls of the hotend. My solution was to change the brand.
I must say if the print suddenly works when you oil it, it may suggest that there are issues with the spool you are currently using. Making sure there is no dust on the spool being pulled into the HotEnd and drying your filament out before printing helps to prevent extrusion issues. But ultimately if there is a dodgy additive in the filament that's causing you issues you may want to switch to a more reliable filament brand.
I having the same problem. Longer prints will have issue. Vref amp is correct. Now trying to off rectraction. See what happen next.
I am not familiar with the TMC2209 but if the calculation is the same as the TMC2100 calculation 0.94 RMS (1.33 VREF) would be the maximum for the Hemera stepper. I believe it is advisable to not exceed 90%. Is the extruder stepper getting hot? If it is the same as the TMC2100 maybe try 0.85 RMS (1.199 VREF) instead. I shared my calculations in this post.
There's deffo something going on here. I have this issue randomly with several spools. One day I'll do a 20hr print and all is good, the next I'll be air printing within an hour and I'll clog. I don't think it's filament specific, I've noticed it more with TPU than I have with PLA and PETG but when I run the same spools I have problems with on my standard E3D (Prusa) printer it'll go through no problem. I'm leaning towards an extremely tight tollerance for filament dimension or as mentioned above stepper current. Variables giving me pause for thought are as mentioned some prints will last for hours without a hitch. Other variable is like mentioned above oiling the filament 100% cures the problem. I have had this issue yet again today and the filament that I was using was 1.77 - 1.79. I think even the slightest thermal expansion is causing these blockages. Another dab of oil mind and it's back off to the races.
Are those underextrusions on the bow of your benchy and in a couple of spots where there was a significant change of printing direction? Do you use Linear Advance (or similar) and have you re-calibrated the correction factor? And is your part cooler partially blocking the air exhaust from the Hemera heatsink or is that the angle of how the picture was taken?
Not wishing to jump on the OP's post but I can at least confirm some of the above. I have suffered the same issues as the OP with stock part cooling duct and coincidentally changed to this duct yesterday. The duct in the picture doesn't obscure airflow in any way as the curvature of the Hemera heat-spreader is just wafting up over the upper part of the laft laf of the fan shroud. This duct v's the origianal neither helps or hinders the jamming frequency. Looks like maud_did also has a Sidewinder X1 but I'm not seeing any of the banding or under extrusion seen in his pics so thats incidental and unlikely to be contributing the the jams we're seeing (mostly with TPU).