HEMERA Jamming/Stops Extruding

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Emin Gadzhiyev, Jan 20, 2020.

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  1. Emin Gadzhiyev

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    Just some information to preface the issue- so I don't get generic troubleshooting responses. I purchased 5 HEMERA upgrades for my four Ender 3's and my one CR10S - S4. I'm just focusing on the Ender 3's right now, so ignore the fact of the CR10. I cannot for the life of get clear Sainsmart TPU to print out of this thing. Here are the steps outlined in E3D's Troubleshooting Guide, and what I've done for each of those steps, plus my observations. At this point I am desperate to get these things working- I have a huge wholesale order to create and need as much printer power as I can get. Cheers <3

    1. Check your firmware settings. - Done
    2. Check your E-steps - Done (extruded exact amount of filament) (saved to the EEPROM) - what is relative mode? There is no mention of this anywhere.
    3. Check you have adjusted your VREF/ configured the correct amount of current the motor is being provided.- I adjusted this to 0.5v for my Ender 3, can you confirm this as correct? I had to turn the original current down, but now it seems its still skipping or something. I could check in Amps, but am unsure how to at this point in time.
    4. Check Idler Tension.- I have played with this feature more than any other at this point, because it seems to be the only variable left that could be causing this issue. Having the white spring block flush with the front face of the idler lever caused jams to the clear Sainsmart TPU. I tried reducing tension- white spring block was a few millimeters from front face of idler lever- but still jammed. The lower tensions seem to have gotten the furthest when printing, but then the filament starts slipping or something. And I can visibly see the idler lever "galloping" up and down when the click noise happens (low tension). I'm still unsure if this clicking is the motor losing steps- though its tuned to 0.5v current- or if it's the filament buckling in the driver setup. My initial thought would be to turn up the tension until the clicking stops, but at this tension the plastic gets crushed slightly and stops feeding. When the filament stops feeding due of too much tension, it's due to a lump in the filament formed from crushing, that blocks the tight pathway of the Bowden adapter. When the filament stops feeding because of not enough tension, there is not apparent damage to the plastic- aside from some grinding. Otherwise it still goes through the assembly fine. So the low tension issue may be from the gears grinding the filament out in a certain spot, making it unable to feed. But like I said, I have tried countless tension points on the idler lever, and none have gotten even an hour into my print.
    5. Check you have a suitable retraction setting.- I do not use retraction.
    6. Check you have the motor wired correctly.- I assume it is wired correctly, because I am able to extrude plastic just fine. And my prints go for about 20-30 minutes before the issue occurs each time. I assume if it wasn't wired correctly to begin with, I wouldn't be able to extrude at all.
     
  2. Daniel Rock

    Daniel Rock Well-Known Member
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    Hi Emin,

    Sorry to hear you are having issues with Sainsmart, we decided to order some clear Sainsmart TPU so we could do some testing to see if there was something odd with this filament, but so far from our in house testing, it has performed very well (asides for some minor part cooling issues). What temperature are you using? and are you still using the stock Hemera fan?
     
  3. Emin Gadzhiyev

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    Hello Dan,

    I've already returned my HEMERA's, but for the sake of sharing my setup, I have the Bowden version- not direct drive. Not sure if the Bowden version of the HEMERA may just underperform or what. Printing at 210C.
     
  4. Daniel Rock

    Daniel Rock Well-Known Member
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    Hi Emin,

    Most of the benefits of Hemera are related to the Direct-drive version. If you use Capricorn tubing (that isn't too long) you will be able to get pretty good extrusion control but as with any Bowden setup you will have to compensate for the additional lag time.

    Hemera as a Bowden extruder is one of the most powerful on the market and reliable due to the Dual hardened stainless steel gears (when there not cracked)

    Flexibles will certainly be more tricky with a Bowden set up vs a Direct-drive setup but you should be able to dial in the settings to get TPU's to print.
     

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