Just some information to preface the issue- so I don't get generic troubleshooting responses. I purchased 5 HEMERA upgrades for my four Ender 3's and my one CR10S - S4. I'm just focusing on the Ender 3's right now, so ignore the fact of the CR10. I cannot for the life of get clear Sainsmart TPU to print out of this thing. Here are the steps outlined in E3D's Troubleshooting Guide, and what I've done for each of those steps, plus my observations. At this point I am desperate to get these things working- I have a huge wholesale order to create and need as much printer power as I can get. Cheers <3 1. Check your firmware settings. - Done 2. Check your E-steps - Done (extruded exact amount of filament) (saved to the EEPROM) - what is relative mode? There is no mention of this anywhere. 3. Check you have adjusted your VREF/ configured the correct amount of current the motor is being provided.- I adjusted this to 0.5v for my Ender 3, can you confirm this as correct? I had to turn the original current down, but now it seems its still skipping or something. I could check in Amps, but am unsure how to at this point in time. 4. Check Idler Tension.- I have played with this feature more than any other at this point, because it seems to be the only variable left that could be causing this issue. Having the white spring block flush with the front face of the idler lever caused jams to the clear Sainsmart TPU. I tried reducing tension- white spring block was a few millimeters from front face of idler lever- but still jammed. The lower tensions seem to have gotten the furthest when printing, but then the filament starts slipping or something. And I can visibly see the idler lever "galloping" up and down when the click noise happens (low tension). I'm still unsure if this clicking is the motor losing steps- though its tuned to 0.5v current- or if it's the filament buckling in the driver setup. My initial thought would be to turn up the tension until the clicking stops, but at this tension the plastic gets crushed slightly and stops feeding. When the filament stops feeding due of too much tension, it's due to a lump in the filament formed from crushing, that blocks the tight pathway of the Bowden adapter. When the filament stops feeding because of not enough tension, there is not apparent damage to the plastic- aside from some grinding. Otherwise it still goes through the assembly fine. So the low tension issue may be from the gears grinding the filament out in a certain spot, making it unable to feed. But like I said, I have tried countless tension points on the idler lever, and none have gotten even an hour into my print. 5. Check you have a suitable retraction setting.- I do not use retraction. 6. Check you have the motor wired correctly.- I assume it is wired correctly, because I am able to extrude plastic just fine. And my prints go for about 20-30 minutes before the issue occurs each time. I assume if it wasn't wired correctly to begin with, I wouldn't be able to extrude at all.
Hi There! I have the exact same Issues as you do, except i cant even begin to extrude TPU. 100% certain my Settings are correctly setup, printing PETG is absolutely fine, as soon as i try TPU it's either Jamming when the tension is set flush according to manual or slipping if i try to lower it. From my current investigations it seems to jam up right at the beginning of the Heatbreak, so basically it compresses abit and thus expands, then the diameter is too thick to fit through. Looking at the Picture: Is it normal for the Heatbreak to reach that far in?
Yes! Seems our issue is identical. As far as I am aware of, the heat-break is supposed to go up that far. In my case it's a Bowden adapter- I have the Bowden kit. But the tolerance on both of those things are the same- very tight which causes the slightest deformation in the plastic to halt feeding. I don't think it has arose as a super common issue because most people are printing PLA, ABS, PETG, super stiff TPU, and Ninjaflex- none of which deform super easily (Ninjaflex is stretchy and springy BUT it will return to shape every time). The Sainsmart TPU- on the other hand- retains deformation very easily; combined with the super tight tolerance of the heat-break, this is a recipe for jams.
I actually Tried Sainsmart, Dasfilament and Ninjaflex, all with the same conclusion... Well i opened up an official support ticket to hopefully solve the problem, right now im pretty disappointed since printing flexibles faster and especially more reliable was THE main reason to go with hemera
Hi! I have the same problem as you printing with PLA and PETG. After printing for 30-40 min the filament expands at the beggind of the heatbreak and then jammed. Any tips?
Sorry at the moment all i'm hoping for is the official support. For me altough the problem exists only with TPU! PLA and PETG work fine.. Is your cooler mounted properly and also working correctly? Sounds like maybe heat is creeping up the Heatbreak and melting your filament too early?
I am having the same issue, it seems that the idles hopping is when the geared teeth are jumping, it does the same with mine by bunching the tpu at the top. It prints petg, abs, pla just fine but any TPU I toss in it just jams up even trying to print at 30mms. Played with the tension lever for about 2 days going from loose to tight and back hoping there was a sweet spot but nothing. also tried going high temp and low, esteps and vref all adjusted. Been working on this thing for over 2 weeks now and no luck. Seen several others with similar issues.
Yea it's kinda the opposite of what my upgrade to Hemera had intended, beeing able to print TPU just like other filaments without that big of a hassle... Let's see what the support has to say, no word up to this point, but i'm sure theres plenty of tickets so i'm trying to be patient. My old BMG is running again for now :/
i have jamming with PLA but i fixed with an oiler. But with TPU the jamming its bigger xD. When i touch the hemera, seem "warm" i thing the 40x10 fan they supplied its not enought to cold it. Im thinkint to try some bigger fan with adaptador.
Yeah, done that. The fan hit a wall. Tried adding a Noctua 40x40x20. Hasn't improved the situation any.
Hi, I'm having the exact same issue. Cant extrude any tpu, the exact reason for buying the hemera in the first place. I've got lots of prints due to people and no way to get them done. Big disappointment.
