I just upgraded my AM8 with a Hemera hotend and I'm running into some trouble with extruding PLA. After the upgrade I printed for about 20 hours using PETG without any issues (240C hotend). I then switched to some old MakerGeeks Raptor PLA (235C hotend) and started to have issues with the extrusion stopping suddenly a few hours into a print. This happened three times so I switched to a newer roll of 3DSolutech PLA (200C hotend) and saw the same issue as with the Raptor PLA. It prints great for a while and then stops extruding. At first I thought my nozzle was clogging, but after messing around with it some more I'm pretty sure that's not the case as I can't extrude after a jam, but if I manually pull the material out and feed it back in it's fine for a few more minutes. It also seems like a heat creep issue, but sticking a thermistor into the heatsink or between the motor and backing plate only shows 40-45C (this is admittedly not a great way to take a reading, but it's all I have). I've discussed this with a friend who also recently upgraded to a Hemera and he's seen similar issues with his machine (Ender 5) and it looks like there's a few other people complaining of similar issues in this and other forums as well. Anyone run across a fix for the issue? Anet A8 -> AM8 Frame Duet2 WiFi Hemera Hotend 0.5mm retraction @ 30 mm/s
Running into this same issue... I only seem to run into it during prints, so far not when manually extruding via pronterface. Not sure if this is related to the issue you are seeing, but during the intermittent extrusion, the extruder sometimes makes a funny sound and looking at the inside from above, it looks like the gears are chattering. Other times, the gears are completely stopped.
My extruder doesn’t make noise when it stops, no clicking like it’s missing steps anyways. The gears just aren’t moving when I’ve caught it. It may make noise initially, but I haven’t been present when at the moment it actually stops extruding to see/hear if that’s the case.
I was able to make a few changes which significantly helped things in my tests: - adjust the supply current to the extruder - tighten the spring - reverse the way the stepper motor was plugged in and set it to inverted in marlin config (no why this helped. I don't think it should have any impact, but in my case there was a marked improvement with this change) - disable retraction (I think it can be enabled, but I disabled it altogether and still have no stringing) Before this point, I tried several time to tighten/loosen the spring. My theory is that the spring was too loose, causing the filament to slip, and tightening the spring caused the extruder stepper motor to miss steps/seize up because it couldn't get enough current. No idea if that theory is correct, but I am seeing much better results now. Here are a couple links with more info about adjusting the current. My printer is a CR 10S Pro, so it's not the same printer, but maybe the same fundamentals apply: - https://forum.e3d-online.com/thread...ce-is-given-for-hemera-setup.3489/#post-34781 - https://www.instructables.com/id/Creality-CR10S-Pro-Y-Axis-Stepper-and-Power-Upgrad/ EDIT: Also I just found out that my slicer (Slic3r Prusa Edition) was overriding my extruder retraction settings on my filament settings. So I did still have retraction on (explains the results). Turning it off altogether did result in stringing, but setting it to just 0.3mm (as compared to the 3mm that it was set to before) eliminated most of it.
Thanks! I've been doing some reading on the Creality machines to try and help a friend with an Ender 5 that uses the CR10S board and it sounds like those machines are set around 650-700 mA for the stock stepper which is definitely on the low side for the motor that E3D provides. I've got a Duet board that allows me to specify the current in the software settings so was able to verify that 700mA is definitely too low. It actually caused the extruder to skip audibly when attempting to extrude PLA at 5 mm/s with a 200C hot end. That's only 3 mm3/s for reference, and most normal hot ends are good for 5-10 mm3/s. I've tried running between 800-1000 mA and don't see an appreciable difference in the motor temperature (40-45C by thermocouple on multimeter) or performance. I'm currently running at 1000mA on the extruder which is about 75% of the max current listed in the spec sheet. Between that and swapping out the noctua fan I had been using for the extruder for the E3D fan that came with the Hemera I was able to get through a 3 hour print today without a clog/jam/stoppage. It definitely makes the machine a lot louder, but the additional air cooling must make the difference between working and not working for PLA.
Hi, I have also a CR-10s Pro, I have set my extruder Vref to 0.94V but it slams. What value of Vref do you set for Hemera motor ?
Hi All, I have had a quick read through this thread, if you are needing some help with VREF please see: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/05+-+E3D+Hemera+VREF+adjustment./143?lang=en
Is this for a Duet or for a separate step stick? if it's for the Duet you should set the current value through the interface (see the Duet dozuki if unsure) if it is a separate step stick you are using I would recommend reading the datasheet for the process required as this may involve dealing with a potentiometer. In any case, those numbers from the dozuki guide I posted are in Amps not Volts.
Hi ! I have the same problem as you. I'm using an Anet A8 with hemera extruder, just purchased a month ago. Anybody have some ideas? it's the current of the motor who must be raised?
I have EXACTLY the same situation, with a 1.1.5 Silent board on Ender 3, have a look on reddit After reading all your posts I decided to switch back to 1.1.3 when the problem never happened. I'll keep you posted !!! (probably in 2 hours!)
The first thing to try with issues with the motor is that it's properly connected, try switching the middle two wires on the motor cable on the board connection side.
i have done this. i printed 4-5 hours last night. the print stopped at 90% Attached picture of all failed prints. all same model. same file re-sliced in cura every time with same settings. and all stopps on random points. If the motor was connected wrong it should not work at all ? have also tried new motor cable,new psu, new bord. and all work perfect with Titan AERO with e3D Compact but powerful motor. If i remove the filament after the print fails due to the motor is skipping/gear jamming and retract 15mm it retract 15mm perfect. but when i press extrude 20mm it extrudes for a while.. and then stopping when passing 15mm... can then retract 30..... then extrude 35... and it stopps again. like there is something in the gears, but nothing is in the gears. so my conclusion there must be something wrong with the bearings or inside the steppermotor. you can see here that after a retract and when it extrude again it stops
There could be a cracked gear/ the gear is slipping, I would contact support@e3d-online.com with this video, it appears like you need some replacement gears.
yep, it could be but all my gears look fine. have sent e-mail with pictures of gear and setup. still waiting for answer.
Look at the bearing in the front. might be hard to see. but easy to see under a magnifying glass.. the front bearing is missing some of the metall ring and are cracked. this make my extruder motor jams i think since its locked to the gears.
Yes I use potentiometer on my motherboard (CR10s-Pro with TMC2208) to adjust voltage. I need to adjust it in Volt not in Amp, that's why I need to know the voltage range that can be used. If I refer to this link with calculator : https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/faq/ It must be between 1.13V and 1.69V that's right ?
I must admit I'm not an electrical engineer so this isn't really my area of expertise, but from reading the link you just sent through it would suggest using a RMS value of half the max rated current which would be 0.665A, using the calculator that would spit out 0.94V. If anyone has more experience with TMC 2208 drivers and could offer some insight I would be grateful.
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/05+-+E3D+Hemera+Current+Adjustments/143 TMC settings, Duet 3D is my go to for TMC setting recommendations, in typical use cases the current setting should be 60% - 90% of the rated current of the stepper motor. In the case of Hemera that would mean setting the current to 0.798 A - 1.197 A.
