Hemera Stops Extruding

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by 87ninefiveone, Dec 25, 2019.

  1. Guilouz

    Guilouz Member

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    Yes I see that and if I use calculator It must be between 0.798A -> 1.13V and 1.197A -> 1.69V but I want to be sure.
     
  2. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    I run my Hemera at 1200mA on a Duet2 with 24V and haven't had a problem whatsoever. At first I even forgot to tune down the amps and it was running for a few hours at 1600mA, which also worked. So don't worry too much, the range you quoted is fine.
     
  3. dcimpoiasu

    dcimpoiasu Member

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    I have the same situation as you. It skips when extrude, but can retract. It prints 60-70% and then stop extruding and gears are skipping. If I preheat without filament and start movind extruder i have the same situation. Does not extruding, but can retract. It seems like it's one way moving of the gears. If i tension the spring it extrude for some seconds and then stops, but cat retract. What do i have to do ?
     
  4. Daniel Rock

    Daniel Rock Well-Known Member
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    Have you double-checked your filament tension is set to the recommended setting? see step 18 https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/01+-+E3D+Hemera+Core+Assembly/122?lang=en
     
  5. NSeabra

    NSeabra New Member

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    Any chance to share you PLA Profile?
    i'm having the same problem as people report above, and it looks to me that the problem is in the retraction settings, the filament is worm (soft) when the retraction is done, and it get out of the heatbreaker, when gets inside again, due the softness, clogs.
    That makes the gears stop feeding.
    Im strugling to get a good PLA print. :(
     
  6. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    I haven't printed anything big/long yet, but I did PLA, PLA/PHA, XT-CF20 and PETG/EDGE with it so far, no problems whatsoever.

    PLA I run at 205°C with 210 for the first layer, bed at 65 (PEI coated). Speed depending on desired quality around 50mm/sec, only 0.2mm retract (no extra restart distance) at 30mm/s, Z-hop of 0.2mm, 0.1mm coasting. Parts fan off for first layer, 50% 2nd layer and 100% from there onwards. Results are pretty darn good, I'd suggest these as a starting point.

    With such a short distance between the drive gear and the nozzle, there is no need to go crazy on the retract at all, especially when you have a printer that is capable of such fast movements - there is simply not enough time for oozing to occur.

    The only non-standard thing I did when assembling my Hemera is using superior heat grease between the upper thread of the heat break and the heatsink (I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut), so that keeps the upper part of the heat break probably a tad cooler due to the superior heat conductivity, but other than that my Hemera is a bog standard one. Maybe give this a try before you rip your hair out in frustration.
     
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  7. dcimpoiasu

    dcimpoiasu Member

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    yes, i tried to tension the spring, but the same result. I dont know where is the problem, because i've printed with the same filament PLA and PETG, that i used before I have this issue. Something triggered this problem.
    In the middle of the printing it stop extruding and gears missed steps, just like something blocked the filament, and then if i push the filament with the fingers the gears begin moving and it extrudes for a while, and the problem comes again. Even tried to tension the spring when it's stop extruding but nothing happens.
    I checked the gears and looks ok. I have changed the filament and nothing...
    Some tips?
     
  8. nocturnalit

    nocturnalit New Member

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    I’m having the same issue with cr10s pro v2 and Hemera
     
  9. dcimpoiasu

    dcimpoiasu Member

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    And again at 20% stops extruding, filament stuck... have to pull back hard to get out.
    I made a pic of the end of the filament . IMG_20200120_171450.jpg
     

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  10. macminoz

    macminoz Member

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    I'm reading a lot of this kind of situation and more comes because the Super Silent board 1.1.5 from Creality....I'm not able to adjust the vref, even if I have all the values (0.72V for X/Y/Z and 0.94V for the extruder). Any one knows how to set this values on the Ender3/Marlin 1.1.9 ? thanks
     
  11. SchmartMaker

    SchmartMaker Active Member

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    Do you mean that your 1.1.5 mainboard does not have the RP1, RP2, RP3 and RP4 adjustment potentiometers? They should be next to the stepper driver chips or heatsinks. As far as I know, the TMC2208 drivers on the silent board are in standalone mode, and cannot be configured through the firmware. Also, someone on Reddit mentioned that due to the sense resistor Creality used, the maximum current the drivers can deliver is capped to 1.2A. Source: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/dye9xx/calculating_stepper_voltage_w_115_silent_board/
     
  12. macminoz

    macminoz Member

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    Yes, I discovered it also...so I decided to resell the silent 1.1.5 and get the skr mini e3 1.2...now I'm figuring out how to the math for the TMC2208...anyone can help here? thanks
     
  13. macminoz

    macminoz Member

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    just an update, no more stop after board upgrade ! Hurray :)
     
  14. Mosher

    Mosher Member

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    so my Hemera stop extruding, i have tried everything from above and nothing helps.
    It just stops extruding with no clogs and jams. I can abort the print extrude immediately with G-code.

    i am running Marlin 2.0.5 with SKR 1.4 and TMC5160 Sticks Current 940mAmps

    I need Help and Support.

    Thank You
     
  15. DLWhise

    DLWhise New Member

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    I also started having this issue after about 20-30 hrs of printing TPU, started getting under extrusion until the motor seemed to just seize up. Looking down into the gears while installed and manually extruding, I can hear the motor trying, but the gears either don't move, or seem to just stutter. I took it all apart and believe I have found a problem. The second gear away from the motor on the spindle is cracked and can spin freely/move side to side. When I first got the extruder spindle exposed, It was difficult to spin the drive gear by hand, but eventually it seemed to loosen up and can now be spun with my fingers fairly easily.

    I can understand why the cracked gear would stop extrusion, but not why it would also seize the motor. I would expect the rest of the spindle to continue to turn even though this one gear slips.

    From reading other posts on this issue, it seems like this is a known issue that E3D is tracking. I have a support ticket open but have not heard back yet. From what I can tell they will just send a complete replacement. I am unclear on if this is a gear issue, a stepper motor issue, or both.

    I would recommend opening a ticket now if you have not already, it seems to take them a few days to respond.
     
  16. Lombar

    Lombar Member

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    I have the same issue. I have changed heat breaker, nozzle, fan,... And I believe that it isn't a gears problem. Filament is marked because it can't continue its way into the heat breaker. I tryed with 0.2 retraction but after some time printing it stucks. I use a dipstick of 1.7mm to push the stuck without some esffort and it works again but after some minutes stops extrussion again.
     
  17. glowplugs

    glowplugs New Member

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    I am also experiencing the slipping or skipping.

    I have only been running my Hemera for about five weeks since setting it up. I have a SKR v1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers.

    It seemed to run perfectly fine the first couple weeks and I was amazed at the performance of the unit. Out of the blue, it seems like it's lost power somehow. I can't explain it. Now, it will skip and click during my prime strip-where it didn't use to-and I can see areas of my test prints where something didn't go right, like an underextrusion or whatever.

    I like to think that I'm reasonably competent with my equipment. I don't have my bed too close to the nozzle or any funny business going on. Filament is new, clean, and dry. I've done cold plugs to assure my nozzle is clear.

    I've even taken the extruder unit apart to check and clean the gears if needed. I didn't observe any cracks or rust or a whatever like I've read on other posts. Everything was actually really clean.

    This has me really worried, now.

    My Hemera (shows Hermes) is a 24v unit from batch 2259-4 and was purchased from Tiny Machines at the beginning of the year.

    I will try and increase the current to the stepper. I seriously hope that solves this. Hopefully E3D can help sort me out.

    It may be unrelated to my issues, but my unit functioned perfectly until after in printed about 20 hours of TPU. Someone else mentioned this. I just wanted to add my experience.
     
  18. cirrasch

    cirrasch Member

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    It seems that I have the same problem... it stops extruding in the middle of a print.
    I tried to setup everything as described, running an SKR 1.3 Board (Marlin 2.0) with TMC2130 stepper driver in spi mode, spreadCycle (also tried stealthchop), current set to 940 (rms)

    After stopping the print I cant feed more filament via the menu but I can retract using the stepper and then feeding again without any problems, so it is not a nozzle issue.

    I also tried different tension setting, different slicers, speeds, filaments, temperatures, ... I took the extruder apart and checked the gear, reassembled it and tried to run some filament using pronterface - I even tried another board (MKS GEN L running Marling 1.9)

    Could anyone solve this problem?
     
  19. Michael D'Angelo

    Michael D'Angelo New Member

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    I'm new to 3d printing, but had a similar issue with a Hemera on an Ender5. My PLA filament was rated 190-220 degrees. I was running the hot end at 220 and found that heat was causing the leading 1" of filament to get soft - soft enough to prevent the gear drive from pushing it through the nozzle. I turned the temp down to 190 and started printing again without issue. Heat creep? Yes, somewhat. But easily mitigated.
     
  20. cirrasch

    cirrasch Member

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    I could solve the problem. My printer was in an enclosure and while printing the cooling zone above the hot zone was simply to hot (about 45° C) and therefor the filament got soft. I took the printer out of the enclosure and now everything works fine.
     

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