Hello, I printed mine, and found out that Thingiverse, has one but, it was for the E3Ds V5. So, I went to my printer, and found that it will lower the Z height a bit but, it prints ridiculously high to begin with. I don't think the smell of burning resistors is really a fine of point of saying, "It's working.". I just don't believe it's the first thing I should smell. It's disturbing to turn that thing on the first time. So, I printed out maybe more than a dozen and a half hot end mounts for the V6, and ran into another problem. Slic3r, told me I was going to need more than 1 cm^3 of line, so there's some kind of problem there. I wrote about it but, I was accused of changing settings. I believe the error is in slic3r, somewhere because, it calculated the volume and produced a rectangle. So, there's a cube, included that you should print first to calibrate your X, Y and Z, if you haven't checked or don't know because, you're printing artwork and mechanical parts that would fit anywhere. This with a little epoxy fits so snugly, you could almost just screw it in as it fits. Print the cube first, if there's scaling issue, measuring it with your caliper will show you if it's spot on or not. Just divide 10, the desired result in millimeter by whatever you measure. Don't loose orientation of the cube on the print platform. First Measure X, and Y, as it rests, then take it off and measure Z. 1 and a decimal, is slightly larger, and just a decimal is slightly smaller. Punch in those values into scaling with slic3r, if that's program you're using. I personally used rubber bands as a clamp for the dry, and just make sure everything is firmly seated, and requires a little force to slide together. It's got to be secure. If you can't find bolts and standoffs long enough to position it over the plastic carriage, for the total potential height of the printer, it's no real sacrifice to hang this under the carriage. It make take another edited layer fan file before it's all together. I'll be checking the fit real soon. It's very secure with the epoxy bonded to the aluminum, plastic, and plastic to plastic. It didn't rattle once I got the print and just force fit it. Cover you're inlet and want not with a piece of painter's tap to keep the epoxy out of the nozzle or anywhere.