How often do you change Nozzels?

Discussion in 'BigBox General Chat' started by Miasmictruth, Apr 4, 2016.

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How often do you change Nozzels

  1. Never

    5.6%
  2. Rarely

    66.7%
  3. Occasionally

    22.2%
  4. All the time

    5.6%
  5. Only to Volcano and back

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  6. Only if worn out

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Aside from wearing out or switching to hardened, I myself never change nozzels, bought a whole range of sizes but in the entire time I have had printers I have never used anything but 0.4mm

    So I was wondering how often and why people change nozzels, maybe I need to stop using such a generic setup.
     
  2. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    Until now, I've only changed them after they got clogged. And that happened twice. The first time with my old Prusa i3, and once with my BigBox. I've been too busy to start experimenting with the other nozzle sizes ;)
     
  3. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    I think it's wrong to have such a big build volume and not use the Volcano as much as possible.

    I also got the 0.4mm volcano (not in our kickstarter pack) to see how that goes.

    The main problem is that my filament of choice right now is ColorFabb XT and that OOZES after about 10cm of XY travel (with speed settings at max).

    Certain prints that require lots of travel therefore pick up artefacts - outer blobs - with the Volcano.

    So there's reason to go back to v6 Nozzles for those.

    And also for the tiny things. (Though the 0.4mm volcano does a pretty good job.)

    Still at the bottom of the learning curve...
     
  4. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I know what you mean just wish there was a quicker way to switch between volcano and standard. I actually bought two jetpacks since I have a duel.

    I am guessing that a nice big volcano would make awesomely strong vases.
     
  5. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    I think if you have a dual it should be possible to design a print head (or print head adapter - a sort of extension tube between the print head and the heat sink) so you can mount a standard next to a volcano....
     
  6. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

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    That would be a decent solution
     
  7. Dr Jeep

    Dr Jeep Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean between the hot end and the heat sink, where the heatbreak is ?The danger there is you will lengthen the melt zone and cause issues with oozing or retraction. I'd say you would be better to change the height by adding a small collar between the heat sink and the extruder. Though in big box you'd have to rethink the way it all mounts.
     
  8. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Exactly, @Dr Jeep, at the cold end of the heat sink.

    Somebody, somewhere must have tried this already?

    The difficulty, of course, would be making the whole thing rigid enough.

    So the best thing might be to modify the the printhead file...
     
  9. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

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    I'm printing a 20mm dia wheel, 6mm wide with a curved profile like a bike wheel and on a raft with PLA done with a 0.4mm nozzle. The top of the wheel where the print finishes is perfect, but the bottom where it starts is rough and so I'm considering a smaller nozzle for this.

    However I have the print cooling fans, those at the sides of the nozzles, off for the first layer (part of the raft) and on low for the next few layers to aid adhesion to the glass plate and it maybe that the print is not cooled fast enough and sags a little at the bottom of the wheel... it's printed vertically a it as little stub axles with supports to aid printing.

    So for the moment as I'm printing small items my only reason to change is to get better detail, at 16 minutes a print, speed for the moment isn't a concern. I may well just use the second extruder to do this.
     
  10. Ualdayan

    Ualdayan Member

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    On my current printer (don't have Bigbox yet) it's really hard to grip the heater block, so whenever I go to unscrew a nozzle it invariably unscrews from the heatsink up above (and then when I go to tighten in a new nozzle it ends up shifting the top of the heatsink in the mount - which means when fully tightened the heater block might be way too close to the mount due to it's asymmetrical, rectangular size and the mount having just barely enough room in one particular orientation. That all adds up to me changing the nozzle being a rarity.

    With the Bigbox though I'm expecting everything to be much more accessible, and with that I'll be changing out things far more often probably.
     

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