SOLVED How to level bed with the Titan?

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Tetrikus, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. Tetrikus

    Tetrikus Well-Known Member

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    How I'm supposed to do a level bed with the Titan head? I tried it yesterday, but of course, the IR sensor did not "see" the bed when on position 0,0, since the IR sensor is far on the left side of the bed. Therefore it tried to move the bed up against the nozzle quite hard and without stopping. Can I somehow change, where it performs the bed-leveling?

    There are some other tweaks I have to do with the titan but I didn't find any documentation on this so far. How can I set, where the parking position should be, for example?

    IMG_0507.jpg
     
    #1 Tetrikus, Jun 24, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2016
  2. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    It is a firmware change that ensures the home position is on the bed, so make sure you have the MBL version loaded.
     
  3. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

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    I loaded Marlin-Dual-Hybrid-titan and the bed sensor does occur over over the glass... but my glass happens to have glue stick glue on it... so not reflective. Will that hamper the sensor? Mine crashes into the head.
     
  4. Tetrikus

    Tetrikus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I think I missed that obvious thing. :) What do you mean with MBL version and where can I get it? Thanks again!
     
  5. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    To clarify, every firmware for the Hybrid (official and mine) contain the changes needed to move the IR over the bed to home Z.
    ABL moves to the center of the bed as always, MBL just to a spot near the XY home stop to speed the process...
     
  7. Tetrikus

    Tetrikus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your replies! The mentioned firmware sounds interesting. I tried to flash it, but avrdude shoots an error when I try to flash:
    Code:
    can't open input file - no such file or directory
    But the path and the filename I entered should actually be correct. I just downloaded the .hex file and uploaded it to my raspberry into the directory /home/pi/Marlin_BigBoxPro_Titan_ABL.hex, then I tried to flash with this command:

    Code:
    /usr/bin/avrdude -C/etc/avrdude.conf -v \
    -patmega2560 -cwiring -P/dev/ttyACM0 \
    -Uflash:w:[/home/pi/Marlin_BigBoxPro_Titan_ABL.hex]:i
    What am I doing wrong here?
     
  8. Tetrikus

    Tetrikus Well-Known Member

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    OMG, that was dumb.. :oops: I just noticed, I just had to remove the brackets [ ]. Sorry, all clear now, hope the firmware works nicely. :)

    EDIT: But even with the new firmware I have the same issue with auto leveling the bed. The IR sensor is far off the bed and the bed does not stop to push up while leveling. Since I've no idea what mesh leveling is and how it works, I'd stick to auto bed leveling for now.

    EDIT2: And how should I adapt the parking position? The head bangs to the back of the bigbox all the time it wants to park in preparation for a print. I guess this is not the best thing to happen before starting a print. :s
     
    #8 Tetrikus, Jun 25, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2016
  9. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    So auto bed leveling and mesh (or manual) bed leveling are simply 2 ways to get the 9 points on the bed to determine how far the head is above the glass at each point (I assume ABL does 9-points). So ABL (auto) works where the printer moves around and uses the IR sensor to get bed height relative to the head.

    In MBL (think M=Manual for clarity) the head moves around automatically (well in reality you hit the button on the LCD to move it to the next) and using the knob and a piece of paper ("light method" folks keep quiet here for clarity!) you wait until the head has moved to a given point, and then twist the knob to the left/right to move the head up and down onto a piece of paper while trying to move the paper around. The head (and this is a total feel thing, but once you get it it is obvious) pushes onto the paper and at some point it becomes "snug" and while still movable is pretty firmly held. Since regular paper is pretty consistently the same thickness you get a pretty consistent level. When it has the feel you like, you click the button and it moves onto the next spot. After nine spots you get the insanely loud beep, and then go to control->store memory. And voila manual bed leveling.

    For both of these the more level the bed is to start, the better, using the screws on the corner of the bed as this will require less compensation from the Z stepper motors.
     
  10. Tetrikus

    Tetrikus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, @Henry feldman , that sounds quite doable. :) So maybe I'll try to switch over to MBL as well. But I still would have the issue with the parking position - the position where the head is over the dump bucket. My head goes back too far to the left and so it bangs to the back of the case. Where can I adapt this position(s)?
     
  11. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    How are you sending the print to the dock? In a script in S3D? If so, can you post (sorry if you already did) the g-code for your dock command?
     
    Tetrikus likes this.
  12. Tetrikus

    Tetrikus Well-Known Member

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    That was a good hint, bundled in a question. :) I just remembered that there where some settings within Simplify3D and was able to find some coordinates for docking at the start and at the end of a print. So I guess, I can adjust these coordinates to solve the issue. Will try that. I still had the problem when I print directly from the lcd - on the 3dbenchy for example, but I guess, there where some coordinates saved as well in the .gcode file, so this should also be possible to solve. Thanks for asking this question which seemed to solve mine. :D
     
  13. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    The Benchy was put on that SD during the prehistoric days, and doesn't work for the 1.1 setup or hybrid since everything has moved. Easiest way to figure out the coordinates is use the prepare->move feature to move your head around to the dock and write down the X/Y and then you will have the exact for the printer (or I am sure Alex has posted it somewhere)
     

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