How to mount cables on the x carriage

Discussion in 'Build Help' started by GrodanB, Jun 23, 2016.

  1. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

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    Hi

    Anyone who can show this?

    I have done many iterations to get the cables to not rub against the slider rods and not get in between the x carriage and the ends (parts on the y axis holding the x carriage)

    It seems like I can't get the right extruder over the zero line...

    Is there a firmware limitations to -38mm?

    Part of me wants to blame the cables that is in the way the rest do not fully understand...

    One other thing that happen that I do not understand... when auto homing the z axis did not stop but pressed against the extruders. I had to kill the power to get it to stop.
    My mistake (blame late night buildingtime) was that once I turned it on I thought a auto home would be smart to get it back...

    Do not do that.... since the x and z is done first the extruders scraped against the glass and the left extruder pop of the glass with a bang

    And then with a new terrible sound pop back up on the printer bed to scrape its way to the centre and lower the z axis...

    So far I have not seen any visible damage but I also left it for the night...

    Anyone else had problem with z axis?
     
  2. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Which version of the BB are you building?
     
  3. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    Given you are talking about -38mm I presume you mean the Hybrid head, there are plenty of images in the build manual that show how the wiring should be done:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

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    For me the key one to take care with is the PT100 connector on the left hand side of the printhead (viewed from the front). It needs to be doubled back on itself and to sit pretty much to the side of the IR probe bracket and level with the top of the fan - any higher or if it comes round in front of the IR bracket it will foul the endstop.
     
  5. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

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    Yes and as you can see, it rubs against the rod. Is that OK?

    Also it gets very close to the x carriage stop piece (place where the rod is anchored) and wonder if it that could be the reason to why I do not seem to get the right extruder on my hybrid to line up at the zero line on the build table...

    Or is it just to continue to screw the stop screw deeper ? When I put it at -38mm the stop switch does not seem to be in closed position I can touch it with a screwdriver and it then clicks... so I assumed that there is no point in screwing it in more.

    I would like to go more or less -39mm...
     
  6. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

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    This is the info I'm looking for... do you have pictures?

    That would help tremendously.

    I have removed all cableties to try to find more optimal configuration.

    Also thinking about the IR sensor connector should I try to make it flatter?

    Will try tonight with a clearer head... maybe it is all me and not the printer...

    Still worried about the z axis though...
     
  7. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

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    Argh... make the same fault all threads have...

    Dual titan hybrid 1.1 with RC4 and octopi option.
     
  8. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

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    You should be able to get it to not rub, and the carriage should be able to move to where the right hand nozzle is over 0, mine does, albeit there's very little room to spare. Make sure all the cables are really well strapped down into the cable guides on the print head. It's not that straightforward, it took me a few attempts to get it right.

    Here's a couple of pictures of my printhead. Sorry the black sleeving makes it a bit hard to see exactly how the wires are routed.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

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    Thank you very much. This is very helpful. I almost have it like this. But yours is much better...

    Fixed it...

    Now I need to check the max X travel.
     
    #9 GrodanB, Jun 23, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2016
  10. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

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    Returning to the Z offset.

    I have the "old" 8 hole brass nut and the new 200 step motors and in the Rumba I have 400 steps per mm.

    So I asked if that is correct. And I got this table back:
    • If you have the original 2mm pitch rods and 200 (1.8) motors the steps will be 1600.
    • If you have the original 2mm pitch rods and 400 (0.9) motors the steps will be 800.
    • If you have new 8mm rods and 200 (1.8) motors the steps will be 400.
    • If you have new 8mm rods and 400 (0.9) motors the steps will be 800

    But should it not be 800 for the 200 step motor and 1600 for the 400 step motor with the old brass nuts?

    No it was not... so 1600 it is for me...

    http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/File:Leadscrew_varients.jpg
     
    #10 GrodanB, Jun 23, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2016
  11. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    I would just make sure you know that no parts of any wiring should rub anywhere. Not even a mesh or shrink tubing. If it does its just a matter of time before a short and possible fire.
     

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