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Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Falc.be, Apr 13, 2016.
Just found the part in the manual (Sub-assemblies).
Bacardi and Cola are 0.08 mm about 3 to 3.5 thou, not sure about G&T tins
Now I get inconsistent values when leveling the bed and there is an obvious bulge in the bed over the whole middle of the y axis
I suggest to loosen the screws of the corners on one side (the screws you see on the picture I posted above). I guess you just put to much force into the bed when screwing everything too tight.
Since borosilicate is optical grade and super flat, aren't you witnessing a natural sag in the Y axis bars?
I'm starting to think that the reason everyone prefers the 9-point manual-mesh to the 4-point auto-IR (on the Pro) is not because the IR is not good but because 4 points doesn't compensate for sag.
The simplest would be to remove the glass as it is only held on with clips. It is only the heated bed which is held with the screws at the corners. Unless I misunderstood where the bulge was?
There is no way the glass can be bent/bulging as part of the assembly or use as the force holding it down is only the clips, if forced it is slightly flexible but too much force would more likely snap it rather than make it bulge.
If it is bent or bulging then it must have been that way when supplied.
When thinking about that, I find that most likely the x-Rods are bent. This could happen when pressing the filament idler without holding against the rod from beneath.
Would not the "bulge" be downwards with too much pressure on the idler lever, so a bulge would become an indentation.
I always imagine a bulge to be upwards.
I doubt the X-Carriage bearings would tolerate much of a bulge either up or down.
Yes, and rods bent downwards... Were speaking about something like 0.08mm!
A dial gauge is on it's way to me... I did not realize you can get them for 10€ on amazon these days... I'm very curious about the quality
.... is there a g-code to make octopi webcam snapshots? Would be nice the mount the dial run a gcode file and check the images...
I have to work in thou, 0.08mm is approx 0.003" three thou.
The smooth rods will move that much if you breathe on them. I doubt it's possible to measure that much bend unless you place the rod on a perfectly flat surface like a glass plate or metal surface plate and then roll the rod and slip a feeler gauge under it.
There is no way to be able to detect that much bend/bulge by eye, and if measured in place what is used as a reference?
I have a similar buldge on mine but still prints fine, I usualy start off with the first layer at .3mm, if you have to hold a super tight z tolerance then you should probably do the 9 point method correctly. However I am skeptical you will hold a tighter tolerance using the paper method. You would still need a dial indicator but to hit all 9 point with it would be a tricky mount unless we can mod the points in firmware.
No mine is not flat at all I can slide a piece of paper in the middle of it.. see a video here
And the bar is flat, I tried some steel rulers as well.
Is the a "normal" plate or do I have a "broken one" aka service issue?
That's not normal.
One for support.
To get you through the weekend, maybe the other side is better?