Installing the E3D-v5 on a K8200 (Tutorial)

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by JDC, Mar 18, 2014.

  1. JDC

    JDC Member

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    I produced this tutorial on how to install an E3D-v5 3mm direct on a K8200 3D printer.

    I bought this extruder because the one supplied with the K8200 is, well... shall we say in a P.C. way.... bad.

    Everything supplied in the box from E3D will be used, also an adapter bracket that you can get off thingiverse.
    (link in tutorial)

    Had absolutely no issues with the extruder, it is great and so worth the money!!

    Just the other stuff on the printer to sort out now............

    Hope its helpful to some of you :)
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Josh

    Josh Administrator
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    Jake, this is a fantastic guide. This will be so valuable to any Velleman K8200 users I have actually added a link to the Documentation page.. Good job :)
     
  3. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    An extremely well documented guide!
    Thank you for your hard work!
     
  4. JDC

    JDC Member

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    Thanks guys :), appreciate it that you've link me on the website

    If I get any cool ideas for the K8200 I'll put them up. Got one now but the printer is down because the USB fell of the PCB :x
     
  5. kuraasu

    kuraasu Member

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    Hi JDC,

    compiling several questions about installing the E3D v5 from Velleman's K8200 forum, I'd like to propose some additions to the tutorial.

    You suggest to use the heater cartridge that comes with the E3D, which is a 12 V, 40 W type. Since the K8200 runs on 15 V, this heater will have an increased heating power in the range of 60 to 65 W, drawing 4 to 4.3 A.
    For comparison: the heater cartridge from the Velleman hotend produces 30 W heating power (15 V, 2 A).

    This procedure is critical at two points. Firstly, the HEATER1 output of the K8200 or 3Drag controller board is specified for only 2.5 A. Using it to source 4 A might work even for longer periods, but there have been cases where the controller board got damaged by excessive current load on the MOSFETs, so no guarantee there.

    Secondly, and perhaps even more important: the original power supply is rated with only 6.7 A. Usually, this amperage is split up as follows: 2.5 A heatbed, 2 A hotend, 100 mA electronics and up to 2.1 A for the motors. With the 40 W heater, the power supply is already at 100% load when heatbed and hotend are on. Power interruptions and supply failures are therefore not just possible, but likely.

    The average current usage by the hotend can be adjusted in the Marlin firmware; this reduces the risk of overheating the board circuits and MOSFET. However, the power supply can still produce some problems in this configuration since the current is regulated in a PWM-like manner.

    Since the K8200 heatbed is somewhat limited, there are multiple schematics documented for upgrading the power supply. A similar setup can also be used for the 40 W heater.

    Alternatively, the heater cartridge from the Velleman-hotend can be used in the E3D heater block. Older Velleman versions unfortunately have a glued cartridge, but more recent printers have it clamped by grub screw, so in that case it's a very simple solution.


    Cheers,
    kuraasu
     
  6. AndersE

    AndersE Active Member

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    All outputs on the k8200 board can handle MUCH more than is needed. The mosfets can handle 57A and 75 volts.
    If needed one can solder extra thick wires from the mosfet as the circuit paths are very short, then there is no need to worry for the board.
    If using a separate supply for the heatbed there is nothing to worry about.
     
  7. kuraasu

    kuraasu Member

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    Hi AndersE,

    sorry for the late answer.

    Those numbers are in the specs, right. However, they do not automatically apply to the K8200 / 3Drag controller board.

    As you also note, ...
    ... it can be necessary to upgrade certain parts of the original system in order to handle the additional load.


    Cheers,
    kuraasu
     
  8. animatormatthew

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    hey guys i have just recieved the e3d v5 hotend for my printer. as the original hot end Teflon cartridge got clogged over night and overheated and broke off at the weakest point. (i hear this has happened to a lot of people)

    how do i soldier the 40 ohm transistor to the e3d fan. i assume you just cut the red wire of the fan then solder the resistor to each end of the red wire. then connect it into the blue mains socket on the board. this was not clear in the instructions. please help i do not want to damage the board. thank you for your time
     
  9. bettergenius

    bettergenius New Member

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    Hi all :D

    I have recently purchased the E3D-V5 hotend and followed the above tutorial and I have few questions,

    1. Once you have put the resistor(s) on the wires and connected it to the blue power block thing on the board and you have connected the power, is the fan meant to be on when it has power or does it require the machine to be printing to make it go?


    As that wasn't explained at the end of the tutorial.


    Sorry if this is the wrong place to put this.


    Thank you for your help with this :D
     
  10. ichbinsnur

    ichbinsnur Member

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    Very nice!
    Just to mention it, i made a part for printing flex filaments with e3d hotends and the k8200.
    The second Version prints quite well, so maybe give it a try.
    And of course, let me know it i can get it better!

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:548827
     
  11. craige

    craige New Member

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    Appreciate your work on this modification but It's all good to provide the stl file for the adapter but my K8200 hothead is dead... How am I supposed to print the adapter? Don't suppose someone would print it for me and post it? I'll pay for it of course.
     
  12. ichbinsnur

    ichbinsnur Member

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    What exactly is the problem with your extruder?

    Is the heater dead?
    If so, you can use the e3d heater as well.
     
  13. diverkev

    diverkev New Member

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    Hi,
    I have just read your tutorial which looks easy to follow. I have read in other posts that there are adjustments needed to the firmware and other settings, have you got any advice on whether these are necessary or not.

    Thanks
     
  14. Dr Jeep

    Dr Jeep Well-Known Member

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    The only potential firmware change will be the thermistor type. Check it reads room temp when you assemble it before you print. I have a feeling I changed mine but can't remember for sure.

    In terms of print settings, you might want to tweak the nozzle size to get the best results and I'd recommend turning down the default retraction (mine is set to 2mm I think) as I found too much retraction causes more frequent jams on the e3d. But it will print with the settings you have. What software are you using? I could share my settings but I only use matter control or simplify3d now so my repetier profiles are way out of date. Oh don't forget to wind out your z endpoint screw before homing the printer as the e3d comes out a bit longer and you break something if you try and home with the old home position :)

    It's a significant upgrade over the POS vellman fit once you have it tuned up right that and replacing the horrible cast z screw supplied with a stainless machined threaded rod were the two most effective upgrades I have done to mine.
     

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