Installing the E3D-v5 on a Makibox (Tutorial)

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by MyMakibox, Mar 31, 2014.

  1. MyMakibox

    MyMakibox Member

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    The Makibox is an extremely cheap printer at just USD200 for the low temperature (LT) kit or USD300 for the high temperature (HT) kit including a heated bed and more powerful power supply. Despite the low price, the Makibox kit includes a lot of good components and fits them in a compact and attractive housing.

    I've been running a Makibox for around four months now, and like many other users have found the biggest shortcomings come from the innovative hot-end, bowden tube, and extruder driver. The E3D-v5 provides an easy upgrade enhancing reliability, lowering stress on the extruder drive, and making PLA a breeze.

    [youtube]MTohV16tu88[/youtube]

    The installation guide following shows how to install the E3D-v5 on a Makibox, and also discusses the optional FroZen and Minimalistic Zen extruder upgrades. I don't currently use a FroZen or Minimalistic Zen, but have one as a spare in case my stock extruder drive fails.


    Doing the Upgrade

    You'll need

    [*]E3D-v5 HotEnd - 1.75mm Bowden
    http://e3d-online.com/E3D-HotEnds/E3D-Bowden-HotEnds/E3D-V5-1.75mm-Bowden-All-Metal-HotEnd

    [*]E3D-v5 Setup Instructions
    Read them before starting installation!

    http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3Dv5_Assembly_Manual.pdf
    http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3Dv5_Bowden_Assembly.pdf

    [*]Hot-End mount for Makibox
    My printable STL is available from Thingiverse. It can also be CNCed out of aluminium for additional rigidity, but PLA is fine and ABS works for a while.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255237

    Update: E3D can print this for you in PLA.
    http://e3d-online.com/MakiBox-Mount

    [*]Small cable-ties to attach the parts of the hot-end mount. Cable ties are also useful to tidy wiring.

    [*]File to fine-tune the hot-end mount.
    I use a diamond file costing around USD2.

    [*]Two wires to connect the E3D's fan to the power supply

    [*]A 10mm screw or similar sized object to trigger the z-stop

    [*]Putty, or similar to hold the screw in place

    [*]M4 nut for the bowden tube


    [*]Firmware
    I recommend Marlin, and have made a copy of my firmware for Printrboard available here: https://app.box.com/s/2scbqku4x3syanudbh6v

    Firmware Alternatives

    a) Compile your own version of Marlin by following Honpo's guide
    http://tinkeringinhk.blogspot.com/2014/03/building-marlin-for-makibox-printrboard.html

    It should be possible to get Marlin working on the newer D8 board also, as discussed here
    http://makibox.com/blogpost/items/5DPrint_D8_design_files_released

    Update: Makible have done the work to get Marlin working on a D8. If you're skilled with code, you can their contributions, and follow its incorporation into the main version of Marlin here.

    https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/pull/897

    Otherwise it should only be long until someone makes a build for Marlin/D8/E3D.


    b) If you really want to stick with Makibox firmware

    b1)build it after updating the temperature tables for the E3D's thermistor, as described here:
    http://mymakibox.blogspot.com/2014/02/a-new-hot-end-how-and-why.html

    or

    b2) re-use the thermistor from the Makibox or use one the same instead of the one that comes with your E3D.

    WARNING: Do not use any of these firmwares with the stock hot-end. The temperature settings are not matched to its electrical specifications, and bad things could happen.



    Recommended

    [*]FroZen
    FroZen Printable STL available on Thingiverse
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252539

    or

    [*[Minimalistic Zen drive parts
    http://tinkeringinhk.blogspot.com/2014/04/minimalistic-zen-replacement.html

    [*]You can get the required bearing from E3D
    http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=103

    [*]And you may can get a spring to allow variable compression
    http://e3d-online.com/Compression-spring-21x7.5mm

    [*]Kapton Tape
    http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=85


    You might also find these useful

    [*]Soldering equipment to connect the wiring (not essential)

    [*]Six pin Molex assembly to complement existing Makibox wiring

    [*]A switch for the fan



    Installation

    1. Remove the Makibox hot-end, and make sure the new mount fits

    File and lubricate the portions that ride on rods until the assembly rides smoothly, but not more. The idea is to strike a balance of gliding along the rods, while also supporting the rods to maintain a right angle and ensuring the hot-end doesn't have scope to wiggle about.



    Note that the gaps must face the back and left of the Makibox so as to minimise interference with homing.


    2. Adjust the Z-axis

    The E3D-v5 is considerably taller than the Makibox stock extruder, so with the current mounting strategy, we need something to make sure it doesn't hit the bed during homing.

    Take off the left side panel.

    There's a small spike that is supposed to though the z-stop switch when the bed is at minimum allowable displacement.

    Add to its height using a 10mm screw and putty, as shown.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. MyMakibox

    MyMakibox Member

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    3. Setup the E3D-v5

    Follow the E3D instructions carefully! I didn't and regret it.
    Set your fan and wiring to the right and front of the mount so as not to interfere with homing.


    The rest of this section only discusses the necessary wiring.

    You need 12V power for the fan. Here's where I got it from, by inserting stripped wire between the Molex connector parts. The idea is tap the power supply rather than adding load to the PrintrBoard.


    For other hot-end wiring, here is a working but messy solution where wires have been secured into the Molex connector.


    Here's a tidier, subsequent version that involved soldering. You can see the colour of the connecting wires more clearly in this picture. The two black wires coming from the Printrboard should be joined and attached to one of the heater, the two red wires should be joined and attached to the other end of the heater. The remaining two wires are the connections for the thermistor.


    A Molex connector would be ideal, if you can find it.

    I have attached a power switch to the fan, with a warning light. The fan should be running whenever the E3D-v5 might be powered. But it's nice to have the Makibox quiet when it is running cold.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. MyMakibox

    MyMakibox Member

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    4. Fix the Bowden connection

    The Makibox supplied bowden tube is unusually wide on its outside diameter, and has metal fittings at its ends. The E3D bowden tube is better quality, but has no fittings. For the end that connects to the E3D-v5, that's fine.

    For the other end, there needs to be a fitting to connect with the Makibox extruder drive or the optional FroZen extruder drive.

    Hon Po discovered an easy solution - add a M4 nut to the new bowden tube so it fits the Zen drive. This requires filing a little off the end of the rube first to get the nut on. Then screw it onto the tube and finally cut off the excess tubing.



    More explanation can be found here:
    http://makibox.com/forum/message/12590


    5. Update firmware

    Firmware installation instructions are here
    http://mymakibox.blogspot.com/2014/01/a-better-way-to-update-firmware.html

    If you're using my Marlin firmware, the PID settings should work fine.

    If you've built your own firmware, you need to ensure the thermistor and PID settings are appropriate. You may also need a wider hysteresis band if your PID settings are not great. The hysteresis band determines how stable temperature needs to be before a print will begin. My working and manually determined settings for Makibox firmware (P2000 I1000 D8000) were not great enough for the default hysteresis band giving cycles of +/-3 degrees around the target temperature, but 7 degrees was adequate.


    6. Level the bed to the new hotend.

    If you've picked up Kapton tape, you'll find it is a huge help in getting adhesion for the first layer. How do you get it on without bubbles and wrinkles? Watch this.

    [youtube]DNQ0WhonnBM[/youtube]


    With all that done, now you can print!





    7. Optional: Install the FroZen or Minimalistic Zen
    These may provide better grip than the stock Zen drive. Both provide variable tensioning, by tightening the nut, and a spring can also be mounted to assist with uneven filament.

    To get your alternative extruder setup, follow the instructions on the Thingiverse page for FroZen
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252539

    Or on Hon Po's blog for the Minimalistic Zen
    http://tinkeringinhk.blogspot.hk/2014/04/minimalistic-zen-replacement.html


    A potentially useful discussion on E3D installation is here http://makibox.com/forum/topic/2456
    An earlier version of this guide appears in posts on my blog, https://mymakibox.blogspot.com
     

    Attached Files:

  4. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Great guide, but tapping the molex like that is a recipe for meltdown - you're bending the contacts and they won't mate well.
     
  5. Josh

    Josh Administrator
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  6. nitronovie

    nitronovie Member

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    Can I take the thermistor from an old Makibox hot end and use it in an E3d-v5 hot end?
    I'm using the newer 5Dprint D8 control board and I'm not exactly familiar with programming things.
     
  7. MyMakibox

    MyMakibox Member

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    That should work. I would make sure that the removed thermistor works ok before starting with the E3D though. It's easy enough to test room temperature, then warm it with body heat, tape it to the hotbed etc. When you order the E3D, ask if they can give you one of the heater blocks with the bigger drilled holes, as well as the tiny one for the Semitec.

    Post photos!
     
  8. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    Which thermistor table to use for the old must also be known is the thermistor coming from the same machine that the E3D is
    going to be mounted on? And I agree about the photos, we love photos!
     
  9. nitronovie

    nitronovie Member

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    My old thermistor definitely still works. The ribbon style heater burnt out though.
    I thought newer E3D v5's have holes drilled for both small and larger size thermistors.
     
  10. Chubchublolly

    Chubchublolly New Member

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    Would the firmware for the board work if I used a jhead instead of the e3d?
     
  11. Eaglezsoar

    Eaglezsoar Administrator

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    The firmware doesn't know what hotend you use all it does is control the max temperatures to it, the fan speeds
    if you set it up that way. In short the firmware will allow any hotend you want to use with minor changes possibly
    made in the firmware in each one.
     
  12. MyMakibox

    MyMakibox Member

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    The only thing that needs to change in the firmware is the thermistor setting. If you can re-use the stock thermistor, or buy one that has the same settings as the original, then there should be no need to change firmware. The choice of E3D, j-head or something else doesn't really have an impact except in terms of the thermistor.

    What you will find with a working thermistor in a new configuration is that new PID settings are required to get a stable temperature at the hot-end. You don't need to change firmware to change PID settings because they can be set with M-codes and saved to flash memory. But somehow you will need to find settings that work. With Marlin firmware, that is trivial because there is a PID auto-tune command. With Makible firmware, that auto-tune is non-functional. Without stable temperatures, the firmware might never reach its "ready to print" stage.
     
  13. MyMakibox

    MyMakibox Member

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  14. air12

    air12 New Member

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    wow that was really nice thread thanks for the information you share.
    breeze at repair
     

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