The Makibox is an extremely cheap printer at just USD200 for the low temperature (LT) kit or USD300 for the high temperature (HT) kit including a heated bed and more powerful power supply. Despite the low price, the Makibox kit includes a lot of good components and fits them in a compact and attractive housing. I've been running a Makibox for around four months now, and like many other users have found the biggest shortcomings come from the innovative hot-end, bowden tube, and extruder driver. The E3D-v5 provides an easy upgrade enhancing reliability, lowering stress on the extruder drive, and making PLA a breeze. [youtube]MTohV16tu88[/youtube] The installation guide following shows how to install the E3D-v5 on a Makibox, and also discusses the optional FroZen and Minimalistic Zen extruder upgrades. I don't currently use a FroZen or Minimalistic Zen, but have one as a spare in case my stock extruder drive fails. Doing the Upgrade You'll need [*]E3D-v5 HotEnd - 1.75mm Bowden http://e3d-online.com/E3D-HotEnds/E3D-Bowden-HotEnds/E3D-V5-1.75mm-Bowden-All-Metal-HotEnd [*]E3D-v5 Setup Instructions Read them before starting installation! http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3Dv5_Assembly_Manual.pdf http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3Dv5_Bowden_Assembly.pdf [*]Hot-End mount for Makibox My printable STL is available from Thingiverse. It can also be CNCed out of aluminium for additional rigidity, but PLA is fine and ABS works for a while. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255237 Update: E3D can print this for you in PLA. http://e3d-online.com/MakiBox-Mount [*]Small cable-ties to attach the parts of the hot-end mount. Cable ties are also useful to tidy wiring. [*]File to fine-tune the hot-end mount. I use a diamond file costing around USD2. [*]Two wires to connect the E3D's fan to the power supply [*]A 10mm screw or similar sized object to trigger the z-stop [*]Putty, or similar to hold the screw in place [*]M4 nut for the bowden tube [*]Firmware I recommend Marlin, and have made a copy of my firmware for Printrboard available here: https://app.box.com/s/2scbqku4x3syanudbh6v Firmware Alternatives a) Compile your own version of Marlin by following Honpo's guide http://tinkeringinhk.blogspot.com/2014/03/building-marlin-for-makibox-printrboard.html It should be possible to get Marlin working on the newer D8 board also, as discussed here http://makibox.com/blogpost/items/5DPrint_D8_design_files_released Update: Makible have done the work to get Marlin working on a D8. If you're skilled with code, you can their contributions, and follow its incorporation into the main version of Marlin here. https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/pull/897 Otherwise it should only be long until someone makes a build for Marlin/D8/E3D. b) If you really want to stick with Makibox firmware b1)build it after updating the temperature tables for the E3D's thermistor, as described here: http://mymakibox.blogspot.com/2014/02/a-new-hot-end-how-and-why.html or b2) re-use the thermistor from the Makibox or use one the same instead of the one that comes with your E3D. WARNING: Do not use any of these firmwares with the stock hot-end. The temperature settings are not matched to its electrical specifications, and bad things could happen. Recommended [*]FroZen FroZen Printable STL available on Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252539 or [*[Minimalistic Zen drive parts http://tinkeringinhk.blogspot.com/2014/04/minimalistic-zen-replacement.html [*]You can get the required bearing from E3D http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=103 [*]And you may can get a spring to allow variable compression http://e3d-online.com/Compression-spring-21x7.5mm [*]Kapton Tape http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=85 You might also find these useful [*]Soldering equipment to connect the wiring (not essential) [*]Six pin Molex assembly to complement existing Makibox wiring [*]A switch for the fan Installation 1. Remove the Makibox hot-end, and make sure the new mount fits File and lubricate the portions that ride on rods until the assembly rides smoothly, but not more. The idea is to strike a balance of gliding along the rods, while also supporting the rods to maintain a right angle and ensuring the hot-end doesn't have scope to wiggle about. Note that the gaps must face the back and left of the Makibox so as to minimise interference with homing. 2. Adjust the Z-axis The E3D-v5 is considerably taller than the Makibox stock extruder, so with the current mounting strategy, we need something to make sure it doesn't hit the bed during homing. Take off the left side panel. There's a small spike that is supposed to though the z-stop switch when the bed is at minimum allowable displacement. Add to its height using a 10mm screw and putty, as shown.