Its printing! But how do I improve from here?

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Gregory Grubbs, Mar 29, 2016.

  1. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    So after much work and a lot of help from Mike Kelly I got the printer printing but its still not going 'well' and Im looking for possible solutions. I figure at the very least Ill have to get the lead screws out one more time for some reason or another, a part of me has a sneaking suspicion my bed is not tram but ive measured the inside distance at the brass nut and made both sides level I feel like maybe im off level from the front half to the back half as looking straight on the machine. But I have leveled, and releveled, and leveled the bed many times, its some of the bed leveling numbers that really bother me but i dont have one handy ill get those for you guys tonight after work. Here are all my recent prints with some highlights to problem areas on the main images. I have finally got off the SD Card and started slicing this improved my Benchy considerably from what it was on my other thread ( https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/whats-this-deformity-thats-so-consistent.876/ ) but now that I am going that route what do I do to make prints better? On the guide it ends at "Your first print" not "You first print, unless it looks like rubbish" so as my first printer what should I do from here? I got surprising quality from the ring and slimer but the rest was about what I expected.

    This is all using the default Dual profile in S3D with PLA running a 225 nozzle on average with a bed starting at 90 and tapering down to 75 over 30 or so layers.

    Here is my old boat in orange vs my new parts in green!
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    In the labeled image:
    1. Weak exhaust pipe inconsistent
    2. Consistent under-extrusion in these layers since my first ever benchy
    3. Uneven circle
    4. Seam and tearing

    1h20m to print
     
    #1 Gregory Grubbs, Mar 29, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
  2. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    Rocket! I did not use the special setting in Slic3r for seamless printing, I will try that tonight it was the regular print settings in S3d for Dual. So many zits and that finish what kind of tip is that

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    about 7 hours to print
     
    #2 Gregory Grubbs, Mar 29, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
  3. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    On brightest day and blackest night...

    Took a few shots to get this one printing right and sized, I started trying ways with no supports and that didnt work out too well ended up running it with supports and it went great, this is the first print I used UHU on and man it made a layer 1 difference. This is before the rocket chronologically.

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    45 minutes to print or so.
     
    #3 Gregory Grubbs, Mar 29, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
  4. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    And last nights very own struggle SLIMER, he has definitely got something weird on the Y axis a few layers in making him seem to wear pants of a sort, no idea at all why that happened, I think that same shift pushed the hands into the supports though so those were mostly lost but besides that he came out pretty well, I think I was trying to run .2 in my layers here.
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    3.5-4 hours to print
     
    #4 Gregory Grubbs, Mar 29, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
  5. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    If you guys need something more exhaustive than that do let me know, Ill get off work at 6CST and head home and try to do something, but really I just dont know where to go from here... tighten belts? Untighten Belts? Relevel? Take a look and let me know if anything strikes a thought, I am happy to try whatever to get some better quality going on.
     
  6. Kick2box

    Kick2box Well-Known Member

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    One thing I can say is that your bed temperature is much to high for PLA. Try a consistent 60°. If you need UHU, something else is bad. Calibrate your extruder and do a careful bed-level with a piece of paper. And don't try anything else but simple cubes until your prints are ok unless you want to run into frustration.
     
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  7. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    I agree with @Kick2box . The first layer is the most important layer of your print. Try to print a test cube and measure the sides. They should be exactly 20x20x20mm. Check the quality of your print. A valuable source is this page, here you can find what the source is of your problems.
     
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  8. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    I was running a solid 60, some first layer issues tried 90 with the scale to see if it would do anything for adhesion but I will go back to 60 and cubes.
     
  9. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    This is exactly the sort of resource direction I needed this looks great! Now I just need to look in on how to clear a clogged extruder and I should be solid.
     
  10. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    So doing some measurements today revealed the back half of my bed may be a 1/4in lower than the front half. What? So I guess ill need to pull the lead screws out and try to level that out and put them back in, is that accurate?
     
  11. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    Strange, 6mm is quite a lot, but if you did your bed levelling then this should not be the problem. Did you do your test cubes yet ?
     
  12. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    I leveled the bed again and did two cubes, both look excellent except 1 corner I think, I did them in black PLA Ill add some images in just a moment
     
  13. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    Like I said I printed two last night: So its really just one corner on one side that is having the issues on the cubes, they are all 20x20x20 and some change. A few tiny gaps on the top layer, a few seeming gaps in the bottom layer as well but they look almost like tiny slits, but aside from those things it looks perfect. I'm not really sure where that leaves me just yet, i have compared them to the s3d quality test and not as much applies as I would like for an easy fix.

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    #13 Gregory Grubbs, Mar 31, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  14. Kick2box

    Kick2box Well-Known Member

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  15. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    #15 Gregory Grubbs, Mar 31, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  16. Kick2box

    Kick2box Well-Known Member

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    its +/- 0.05mm, so in worst case it makes a difference of approx. 6%/mm
     
  17. Gregory Grubbs

    Gregory Grubbs Active Member

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    Looks like 1.69 or 1.70 so apparently Ive been lied to! so Ill adjust that in S3D and see how that helps, as for print speed should I just dial down the FR rate on the LCD or ?
     
  18. Kick2box

    Kick2box Well-Known Member

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    No, you set the speed in S3D, you could reduce to 35mm/s for the cubes as it will be easier as a start. When everything is perfect, you try with higher speeds. The flowrate ist bounded to the print speed by the slicer. In general your extruder must be calibrated with correct steps/mm. The flowrate then can be used for fine tuning, it's just a multiplier to the calculated values. If you feel that it's extruding too much, you reduce it by small steps. Setting it to 0.99 is like setting your steps/mm from 300 to 297.
     

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