Jamming with Taulman Bridge every print

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by jeffhuber, Sep 8, 2014.

  1. jeffhuber

    jeffhuber Member

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    I've read through the the troubleshooting guides and double checked everything. I keep getting solidified nylon in the heat break that I have to drill out. =( Generally speaking it prints for a little over an hour before getting jammed up.

    I've also submitted a support form - but I wanted to provide some more info here.

    Here are all the details:

    hot end: e3d v6 1.75mm bowden hot end with e3d 0.8mm nozzle
    printer: SeeMeCNC Rostock Max v2

    Cooling
    - Using included fan and duct hooked up to hot end's 12v power supply
    - No heated chamber
    - No obstruction
    - Heatsink does not feel warm to the touch at 240c

    Bad Filament
    - using Taulman Bridge - ~1.77mm diameter. don't think thats the issue

    Configuration
    - confirmed that EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE is 8
    - I've run PID autotune

    PTFR Tubing
    - confirmed tubing is pushed all of the way down

    Slicer
    - Cura 14.07 on windows.
    - Nozzle correctly configured
    - Retraction is 100mm/s and 1.5mm distance
    - 0.5mm layer height
    - 30mm/s print speed
    - 240c hot end, 55c bed temp
    - 200mm/s travel speed

    Extruder
    - EZStruder from SeeMeCNC - http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-a ... ld-end-kit

    ***
    Things I've tried:
    - Reducing the printing temperature from 255 to 240c for Taulman bridge. That seems to have helped.
    - Dropped retraction from 5.4mm (oops) to 1.5mm - still jams
    - Manually running through both Nylon and ABS with a ~5" piece of bowden tubing sticking out - requires a LOT of pressure. sometimes nothing comes out at all

    would appreciate any and all ideas!
     
  2. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Have you confirmed the filament diameter? Taulman has a habit of running large. Bridge should have zero problems in an E3D.

    Be sure to check the diameter at multiple points around the circumference, it is normally oval.

    Also, you should *never* drill your heat break. You may have permanently scarred it.
     
  3. jeffhuber

    jeffhuber Member

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    Thanks elmoret - if it gets clogged with nylon - how would you suggest removing the material? (not as obvious as using acetone for ABS...). I may have scarred the heat break, so I might order another one. How can I figure out if I have scarred it?

    The filament appears to be as large at 1.88mm and down to 1.81 (and that's dry!) - so I guess that actually fails the sniff test for the e3d. =( I'm guessing that's a serious issue? Can this be mitigated by adjusting the filament size in the slicer? Perhaps it's simply overextruding and getting clogged up?

    thanks so much!!!
     
  4. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

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    Yeah, 1.88mm is bad news. The PTFE is rated at 2.0mm ID nominally, but that obviously gets smaller when the tube is bent - not to mention that due to manufacturing variance it could be as smaller as 1.85-1.9mm. This isn't a problem with true 1.75 +/-0.05mm filament. I guess you could run it through a draw plate, but that's gonna take a while...

    You can check the heatbreak by running ABS, then cleaning it with acetone, then visually checking it.

    You should be able to warm/hot pull the nylon - a bit harder since you have a Bowden setup, but should still be possible. Really though, you shouldn't worry about getting the nylon out because 1t 1.88mm, it just isn't usable - or its a matter of time until a fat enough section comes down the pipe.

    If you have a direct drive extruder, that should do ok as the PTFE section is very short so increased friction due to oversize filament is less of a problem.
     
  5. Sanjay

    Sanjay Administrator
    Staff Member

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    Firstly, thank you for filling out the questionnaire form - it's the one single thing that helps us help you the most.

    Of all the materials out there Nylon is probably the easiest to push through a hotend, it's extremely lubricious in all of it's states and slides through without much of an issue.

    Can you explain exactly what it is you mean by "jamming" - I know that's an odd question, but I've had people refer to all sorts of behaviour as jamming. Your support form indicates that you are getting a lack of extrusion in some places, but not that the flow of filament actually stops entirely?

    The one thing that jumps out at me here is that you're printing fat layers out of a big nozzle with a material that requires a lot of energy to melt. It may be simply that the rate of plastic moving through the hotend is exceeding it's capacity to melt that plastic. Try going hotter, and or going slower to help things flow.

    That pushing nylon through by hand requires a lot of pressure with a 0.8mm nozzle at all is a really strange symptom indeed and I would be wary of things like blockages or obstructions (even partial) in the nozzle or otherwise. There could also be an issue with a kink or damaged piece of PTFE tubing. Particularly check the cut ends of the tube have not been pinched out of round when cut.

    Taulman stuff is generally pretty darn good, especially the nylons, but there can be oversize or out of round issues like Tim says. I also must echo Tims advice about taking drill bits to heat breaks, really playing with fire there.

    Sanjay
     
  6. Ralph Hilton

    Ralph Hilton Well-Known Member

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    If material gets clogged in the heat break then I move the extruder up to the top and with the hotend on remove the nozzle then clean out the heatbreak with m3 rod from below. When it is hot it can be removed much more easily than when cold.
     
  7. marcossf

    marcossf New Member

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    I suffered the same issue on my CoreXY 3DPrinter powered by E3D-V6.

    When it happen, the taulman bridge does a hard nylon bubble on the end of the heatbreak tube.

    Better that drill and other harmfull metods, i use a small cooking flame lighter to heat up the nylon trapped on it.

    It blend very easy without use any tool. After doing that submerge the heatbreak in warm water and let it cold, rinse well and mout again in the hotend.

    I'm still don't know the reason to have this behaviour, but my suspects beside in the gap where the end of the teflon tube and the heatbreak or inssuficient air on the radiator fins (they are a bit hot enough, my V5 wasn't too hot)

    (sorry, English isn't my language)
     

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