Thanks! I think you are right. It seems that sometimes the motor is skipping steps. I am useing my own design of extruder for 1 year now (it includes something like MK7 Drive Gear). Problem occured after switching from e3d v5. Mb the motor is dead. I need to look closely to my hardware.
I'll also chime in. I'm having the same exact problems. I was printing with a J-Head hotend that printed pretty good but I upgraded to the E3D v6 because of all the good things I'd read. Now, I can't get consistent printing and most prints fail just like the problem stated above. It starts fine sometimes, but then I get the clicking and the filament is chewed up. Sometimes it won't even just test extrude. Like others above, it seems like it is building up pressure. I also have to bump the temps way up over what I used to use for my J-Head. My machine is a Prusa i3 with a Greg's extruder. I'm using 1.75mm ABS filament. I've tried several different brands, many different settings, two different thermistors (yes, the firmware is correct), and temps from 210 to 260. I'm using the supplied fan and shroud with the fan directly connected to my power supply. I filled out the questionnaire. This is the most frustrating thing I have experienced in a long time. I'm hoping this was not a huge waste of money.
Looks like my issue is solved for now. Turns out I had a burr in my nozzle. I purchased an extra nozzle to have on hand to swap it out when I wanted to clean the current nozzle. I decided to switch them out to acetone soak the original nozzle. I've had no jamming issues since then. I ran a .04mm drill through the original nozzle and found a burr in it. It wasn't just filament and almost broke my drill bit. With a little work, I was able to get it smoothed out.
I also just bought a V6 to use on my homemade delta printer. I have a V5 on my k8200 that i also had a LOT of jamming problems with. Now i have the same problems with the V6 (3mm direct) . 1-3 layers perfect printing then bang.. JAM. And it is REALLY STUCK.. On my V5 i solved all jamming problems by drilling it all up to 3.25mm+ drilling out the nozzles, and then adding a Bulldog XL extruder. And the only cooling i need for the V5 is the fan on the Bulldog (no fan on the heatsink). It worked almost 6 months wihout a jam, then i had to make a new heaterblock becuase the nozzle threads got worn out ( changed between different nozzles too often). The homemade heaterblock has worked more than 6 months now with PLA ( so no science to make a new block.. Now i have to solve also the V6 problems (that i thought was already solved from the v5).. I seems to me that it is the same problem with too much pressure bulding up, so the molten PLA gets pushed up in the heatbreak where it cools down and become a plug. I have it assembled correctly with the correct thermistor setting in marlin. I am using a PG35L geared extruder, and that geared stepper should be able to handle PLA, beacuse it keeps spinning and grinding filament even after a jam. But i am going to try all the tips this time also..
Me? I bought it from E3D a couple of weeks ago. I had an extra heatbreak so today i drilled it all to 3.2mm. The heatbreaks is 3.1 in upper end and 3.2 in lower end, which makes it VERY hard to pull out old filament. Now after drilling it seems to work.. so far.. Haven't had any jam the whole day of testprinting. I had tested retractions the same as i run on my V5 3-5mm which works perfect on my modded V5, it is needed because it will ooze a LOT without it. Now i have lowered the V6 retractions to 0.2 mm at 230c. But i will try how low on temp i can go, because i think 230c is too high. On the V5 i run around 200-210c. I am uploading a video to youtube with one of todays prints, but it will take 2h to upload.
Today i have printed PLA all day without a single jam. I have also upped retraction to 0.5 and lowered temp to 215 without problems. Speed was today 130mm/s infill and 80mm/s perimeters with 0.4 nozzle/0.3 layer. Tomorrow i will try even lower temps, higher speed and with cooling on (some of my prints today would need cooling), so i print a fannozzle tomorrow.. http://youtu.be/6oj7stwTKG4
With cooling did now work, because as it seems i got the 25w heater cartridge in my kit. Dooohh. Why had i not seen that before, i have had problems keeping temps even without fan on.
Another one here that is having the same problems. I have a 3mm direct E3d V6 and it started clogging a couple of months ago, I've tried everything, when I print, it anly does the brim and then clogs completely. I tried cleaning the whole thing in acetone and it gets a little better, I can get to print for 3 hours or so before the next clog occurs. This is really frustrating, I think the problem is, as said before, on the part of the heatbreak that is between the heater block and the first refrigeration fin. I also tried different nozzles, both 0.4 and 0.6 get clogged so nozzles don't seem to be the problem
Well, I have 2 brand new V6 hotends 3mm editions over here and they BOTH have the same ID dimension issue described in this thread. The nozzle's ID is around 3.2mm, the bottom of the heat break's ID is 3.5mm for about 7mm and then the cold side is 3.25mm. The side with 3.5mm seems to have a better polish until it reaches were the ID shrinks to 3.25mm so I would guess the extra polishing they did there is probably responsible for this problem. I have emailed E3D about it and for now they replied this: "Thank you for your email. I am sorry that you feel that our V6 hotends are not up to standard. Have you tried printing with your hot ends yet? if so are you experiencing jamming?" Honestly I don't feel like decommissioning my working Arcol hot end and modifying my x carriage to fit these nozzles only to confirm what everyone else already confirmed. I have the same measurements everyone else with the jamming problem has, I don't see why I would be special and not have the same problems. From the schematic I have seen: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/FileR ... -BREAK.png and http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/FileR ... -BREAK.png The ID of the entire heat break should be either 2mm or 3.2mm all the way through and ITS NOT. So this is a manufacturing defect. I wish they would just replace the heat breaks. Even if you can drill the the heat break you wont get the best results, the entire pathway to the nozzle's exit should be of the same diameter. And now that I paid more attention to the schematics, I don't like how they have bevels on every edges of the internal path were each parts meet one another. It just creates pockets were filament can get into and potentially cause problems. On the Arcol every parts is machined so it will sit flat against each other, on a non defective Arcol this means you get a perfect path to the nozzle. They should think about assembling every hotends and polish it once assembled so the inside is perfect. Honestly, I don't care about interchangeable nozzles. I just want a reliable hot end.
Actually, you do want that taper, it is not a "manufacturing defect" as you call it. Nophead discovered this long ago: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2009/03/rheology.html The taper isn't called out on the CAD drawing because it occurs in polishing, not machining. E3D sells tens of thousands of hotends. They probably have some idea what they're doing!
That is some very good info. Thanks for posting the link. E3D also sent me another email in which they mention that even though it is not in the schematics, the "taper" is intentional. They say Its not in the schematic because it is created after the manufacturing process when they polish the inside of the heat break. So after reading all this, I got my hot ends out and instead of relying on a visual inspection I took a small wire ( ~ 0.3mm OD) cut its end as square as possible and used it to probe the inside wall of both heat breaks. Im happy to report that it does indeed appear to be smooth. So, at least for me, what looks like a "step" in ID size is only a visual artifact. I guess I can install my hot ends after all!
So not much has changed since this thread was started almost a year ago. I just bought the v6 and have the same results. I didnt sign up for a beta testing program. I bought mine from filastruder. How do i get a refund?
You need to contact support@e3d-online.com. Most likely you are assembling something incorrectly. Incorrect assembly can lead to jamming and potentially damaging the hotend. Following the instructions is imperative. There are tens of thousands of v6 hotends out in the wild. If there was a problem with the design itself, you'd see a LOT more posts in this thread. The last jamming related post in this thread was 45 days ago, for example. In that time period, roughly a thousand hotends were sold, but there are no posts about jamming.
Well, it's not assembled incorrectly. The symptoms were, I could take it a part. Cut off 50mm of filament. Thread the filament through the stainless tube and "feel" friction/catching on something. Upon inspection, I can see "rings" inside the stainless tube. I'm not certain where the binding is coming from, it is possible there is a lip on the inside that I can't see. I took a drill bit the same size as the entry hole at the heat sink end of the stainless threaded tube and slowly turned on the drill and moved the bit in and out, then I increased the speed gradually up to full. I re-performed the filament test and verified the binding "feeling" was gone, like a burr or something inside. Reassembled (carefully) and ran a 100 mm x 100 mm test 5mm high, with a 5mm inside wall. this was chosen because I was unable to get past the first two layers in five previous prints. It printed without issue this time. I'm going to re-try the failed print design ... which was a very simple 2015 graduation gift that didn't get printed in time for graduation All it was "Name/2015" So no overlapping vertice issues..
Hi. I also think I have a jamming problem: I have been using few months now this new hotend and last night it stopped working complitely. PLA 3.0mm filament comes out very poorly and after I tested all parts (motor, steppe motor, bolt and I tested previously worked filaments) and cleaned extruder and hotend problem remains, so issue must be with hotend. Temperature I use on bottom layer is 230 degrees (know it is high but I need it to get all details to stick on glass). Any idea what to do with this problem?
Have you ever cleaned your hotend too? Inside I mean, not the nozzle outside If not, apply the procedure indicated here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the After long use and many changes of filament, chances are that the nozzle will clog, due to whatever particles may have accumulated inside.
