Yes, i have been printing a lot of PLA since the redrill of heatbreak. ( so 2psc 3mm e3d v5+v6 works after redrilling) Now i have my third E3D (1.75 bowden) which have the same problems. Jam after 50mm filament. All assembled as per instructions again. Not touched by my drills yet. The plug gets just where the ptfe meets the heatbreak and 5mm down. So no forward or backwards filament feeding. If i clean out and start over, it extrudes about 50mm then BANG!!! PLUG. SIGH!!!!!
I spent the last couple of days reading all 15 pages of this as I too had jamming issues... I believe I can report now that they are a thing of the past... I'm on my 4th print, which is the 'Torture Test' mentioned in the first couple of pages of this thread. What I wound up doing... #1, I figured out I'd put the nozzle and heat break into the aluminum block on opposite sites, so the heater and thermistor were closer to the heat break than the nozzle... (Good chance this was the majority of the issue). #2, applied Thermal heatsink compound to he threads of the heat break where they screw into the heat sink. #3, Chamfered/beveled the end of the PTFE tube where it touches the bottom of the heat break. #4, I noticed the 30mm fan liked to change speeds intermittently (Most of these are cheap chinese POS's!), so I put a new fan on it and wired it to a separate 12V power supply. I'll leave it like this until I can either buy a good quality 30mm fan, or print out a dual fan, or 40mm fan shroud. #5, Dropped my retraction to .5mm @ 40mm/sec, and am now back up to 3mm @ 40mm/sec... it's about 45 minutes in to the torture test, and seems to be running great. I'll post any other observations or lessons I learn as I go... Cheers!
Just an update, since my last posting, my E3D-V6 has been working perfectly. I have not used any oil at all. My Retraction is set at 3mm @ 40mm/sec. Had some other issues dealing with my new Proximity Autoleveling, but finally got that sorted out. Seems to be working perfectly! R
My jamming on the Lite6 also appears fixed. Seems some particles from the PLA wades gears (as they were wearing-in) dropped down into the nozzle. Several disassemblies and torch, and then later (after learning how) cold-pulls using eSun cleaner filament, keeps the nozzle open. Now I'm printing PETG at 30 to 50 mm/s at only 220C, and it is very strong and nice.
YES YES YES! exactly! i paid the money for a working product. its not working as advertised. i shouldnt have to do all these other steps that possible ruin the product or change the design because the designers dont know what theyre doing! i have the same symptoms as everyone else in this thread and im tired of it! i have wasted a spool trying to get this hotend to work. im very very dissapointed with this "premium" hotend.
A sad part about forums is that people only really comment on these threads when something does not work. I have been using e3d for years and never had an issue. its an extruder for life in my case but your comments seem unfair towards e3d. you must understand that it is only in theory that a product works 100% of the time. The reason you don't see it with iPhone is because it is easy to test whereas a item like an extruder is slightly harder. So, complain about a product but don't create a scene about it.
Hi, I seem to only have problems with 3mm filaments. Are they just dodgy quality or is this that someone else recognizes. All the 2.85mm print fine.. Cheers.
Yeh in response to comments from Wookie I hear your frustrations but if you want a consumer grade printing experience then go and buy a commercial grade 3D printer with a support plan and be tied into using only their approved feedstock. You'll get full support and it will be more plug and play for you. The E3D hot end works great for most people and the jamming problems I had were resolved with heatsink compound (now included ? ) not had to resort to drilling myself. But expecting this to "just work" on any printer with any filament supplier is a tall ask.
I'm having jamming problems too. I upgraded my mini kossel to a v6 1.75 bowden and have had constant problems. It will print a few layers then jam. Have used thermal paste chamfered the bowden tube and it still does it. I have installed a spacer to keep the bowden collar up stiil the same. Driving me mad, just cant print anything. Going to dissasemble tomorrow and check it all, again.
Well yeah but if it has bulges it can cause jamming. Best to take a lot of measurements and see, especially after a jam. ABS I find usually jams if there's something partially clogging the nozzle. Especially if it's a bad blending of ABS the colorant can get stuck up in there. One method that I learned was to use some nylon filament or cleaning filament. Feed it through, then push up with a brass bristle/piece of wire, etc to force the partial clog back into the filament. Allow it to cool then heat it back up while pulling. Hopefully you should be able to grab almost the entire piece of filament out, and the chunk with it. Cut off the end and repeat this a few times till you get a nice even flow. What brand of ABS btw?
Just the same. Have taken apart, cleaned, made the Bowden is seating ok and its just as bad. Its jamming above the nozzle, as it wont feed even with no nozzle in.
Took it apart again and found this. Retrimmed the end and its no better. I'm now wondering if the plastic clip is faulty.
