COMPLETE LED build plate illumination

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Alex9779, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    So I started to think about this since the Kickstarter campaign ended and now I did it.
    I wanted to have a build plate illumination in connection with the OctoPi upgrade because I monitor the status of my printers with it even from remote.

    I have 433MHz plugs for them too which I can control from the OctoPIs, in addition I can control them from a third device in case something goes wrong with the OctoPIs so I am able to power down the whole system in case of something goes terribly wrong, but about this maybe in another post.

    So in the night the room is dark and my UM2 has an illumination so why not do the same with the BigBox?
    Richard Horne did it though he didn't tell much details.

    Here are my goals:
    • bright, dimmable illumination of the build plate
    • no extra power supply
    • controllable with the firmware
    RGB(W) was no option. This leads to extra electronics and stuff and I do not want to show the state by illumination I just want light on the build plate so see what's going on.

    I searched a bit and found nice small aluminium profiles on eBay where the LED strips are in an angle of 45° and which fit perfectly right over the Y axis of the motion system and not colliding with the carriages.
    And LED strips too.
    At first I tried 60 LEDs per meter but they were rather dark. I ordered some with 120 and 240 LEDs per meter and I did it with the 240. 0.5m per side are enough, I had to cut them shorter you need about 41cm per side. To keep the current low I chose 24V LED strips. They use about 800mA per meter.

    I connected them to the HE2 port which has a MOSFET build in so I can dim them.

    Then I change the firmware to use the HE2 PIN, which is PIN 6, as LED PIN. This makes it easier with the GCODE command. You use M42 to control every PIN. M42 P6 S255 would activate PIN 6 with 100%. The M42 is designed in a away that if you omit the Px part it uses the LED PIN. So the change is only for convenience.

    Last I added custom controls to OctoPrint on the controls page to be able to switch the LEDs on and off and set a brightness level.

    I fixed the profile with double tape for now.

    That's it, there's light!

    IMG_0225.JPG IMG_0227.JPG IMG_0228.JPG IMG_0229.JPG
     
  2. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    798
    Likes Received:
    248
    Definitely going to do this to mine!
     
  3. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    Here is a current picture from the OctoPI camera with the new build plate illumination, room is fully dark:
    webcam.jpeg
     
    PsyVision likes this.
  4. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2015
    Messages:
    319
    Likes Received:
    114
    That looks really good, the camera image is miles better than my current setup. I definitely want to do something like this as well
     
  5. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    798
    Likes Received:
    248
    Nice! Just about to play with my cam settings to see about improving it.

    What are you printing?
     
  6. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    Printing a temperature calibration piece. Starts 220° C and drops 5° C per stage up to 190° C.
    Seems the Colorfabb PLA reacts different with the V6.
    Did the prints of the side cutout clamps at 210° C, on my UM2 this is on the borderline, never got a good print from the UM2 printing less than 210° C. But on the BigBox it seems still a bit high because I get over extraction on sharp edges and on the points where lines end when switching to another part if printing multiple parts at once.
    This could be of the bigger heater block the V6 has compared to the UM2. The thermal capacity is higher so the temperature gradient towards the nozzle is lower I assume.
     
  7. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    798
    Likes Received:
    248
    I've been printing my E3D and ColorFabb PLA at 190.
     
  8. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    As I said previously I am totally influenced by my UM2 :)
    Gotta get a feeling for the new printer and hotends...
     
  9. Dr Jeep

    Dr Jeep Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2015
    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    169
    the E3D V6 on my current printer always prints PLA @190
     
  10. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    Stop mocking at me! :p I got it...
     
  11. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    Looks nice. I wonder if you flipped them around so they bounce off the white (or diffuse it in some other way) if it would reduce the glare? Trying to decide how to tweak on mine...
     
  12. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    I am seeing that glare and I was aware when placing the left one that it may have an influence on the cam because it looks straight into the light. Maybe only the right side would be enough, I am going to test that sometime.
    But I am totally fine with the result. The print is perfectly visible on the cam, I don't care the glare at the moment...
    If I'd rotate it then the light might goes out of the box, that's where I do not wanna have it. But I will test that too sometime...
     
  13. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    I was thinking that the one on the right should shine straight out, and the one on the left on mine will either be diffused or bounce. The good news is we have all that spare perspex, although I might get some thin theatrical diffusion gel to do it instead.
     
  14. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    Heres another shot but this time I dimmed the LEDs... To 10%, M42 S21 was the command...
    For the camera enough. Maybe I am going to test the 120 LEDs per meter. But when you are in front of the box the light is good to see every detail...
    webcam.jpeg
     
    Madeinoz67 likes this.
  15. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    Oh, that's nicer. Looks very naturally lit.
     
  16. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2015
    Messages:
    1,095
    Likes Received:
    322
    Superb result @Alex9779 . I was looking around the machine today thinking about this. I have a honking great big angle poise looking at mine, which is good but not perfect. Besides, it's fun to hack the machine.

    I wondered about putting the lighting just inside the front side walls staring in, this way illuminating the model all the way to the bottom of it's build depth. I also looked at the place you have them, which seems ideal. Great idea with the GCODE command, I had no idea how to do that, though i knew it was going to be possible.

    So, HE2 is a PWM output at 24v. Is that right?
     
  17. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    Better... There is a jumper for HE2. You can switch between 12V and source. Source is in our case 24V... And it is PWM as it is normally for the third heater...
     
  18. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2015
    Messages:
    1,095
    Likes Received:
    322
  19. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    Ooh. That's perfect. Didn't know you could use that as a PWM'ed 12V source. Do you just move that jumper behind the connector to the other pair to make it 12V?
     
  20. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,405
    Likes Received:
    731
    No I purchased 24V LEDs strips. The current needed is lower...
     

Share This Page