If the frequency is high enough wouldnt that eliminate the issue for the camera. Even at 1k hertz the leds woud blink many times per frame.
That should work but I do not know what freq normal LED dimmers use. Baybe some fancy code in RUMBA can do this. Or syncing the LED PWM with shutter on RPI have you ever watched car shows where you see the car lights are blinking / flickering.
Humm I thought it was higher, the defualt pwm is only 490hz on a mega but I think it can be increased. Im not sure how long the exposure is ler frame so it could still be an issue. Also not sure how many pwm outputs are avalible...
If you are just using regular "strips" that is true, but Neopixels and DotStar strips do PWM and no problem with video. Neopixels do something like 400z while DotStars are 20Khz.
It's the dynamic range (when the head is in the way it is dark and when the head moves back the LED is center frame). Sure an Ari Alexa could handle this, but a $19 PiCam isn't going to...
I went for the easy option. 24v LED strip connected to the PSU connector running the case fan. Total cost $5
Other than left and right side, I put an led strip on(hang) near the head, so I could see what come out from the nozzle, and it is OctoCam friendly.
I have decided to try to mount one or two of these either on the carriage or on the bed. Or I will go the arduino route if i also find a way to get the process% to the arduino to control the lighting.
@Irawan Tri Kusumo I'm curious how you powered that small LED strip near the print head. The draw should be really tiny, so I'm wondering if it could actually just steal from the heatsink fans ....
@Spoon Unit, I powered the small LED Strip near the head same as the ones I put on left and right side (see picture below), i.e.: using DC to DC step down which I bought from amazon I know a little about electric, so I think it is not wise to steal from the fans. I pull the cable from the top to the bottom, together with other cables. I was thinking to upgrade (connect it with rumba) like @Alex9779 did, so I could control it from OctoPrint. But, I don't have confident to do it yet . Beside, at the moment it is simple enough for me to choose which LED I need to turn on by using this switch
Just a reminder, as I understand (while we are talking about LED in here), when you upgrade to Bigbox 1.1, using the hybrid Titan, the build volume is limited by the Top Right Frame, as @Greg Holloway said here. Hence, we need to cut/modify it, the design is already on the server. What I concern is: It is where most of us put the LED Strip. UNLESS, you modify the upgraded head that is designed by @Alex9779 , by lifting the extruder motor and Titan.
Modified my carriage and looks like I gained most of what was lost. For the lights I am going to 2 mall use 24v direction LED light for car withe on the head or (more probably as too strong) on the frame. If this doe snot work I will make a LED controller.
Finally got round to installing my LED lights, went for the one up and one down approach... although in hindsight should have probably done it the other way round to avoid the camera issue! also created some buttons in octopi using "Custom control Editor" thanks for the guide!