If there is someone with copious spare time on their hands and that own a E3D Big Box dual hybrid Titan printer and would be willing to coach me I would appreciate a private message. My printer is fully assembled and I've gone through the startup calibration and have printed two 1cm cubes out of PLA with poor print quality on only one of the print heads, second print head is grinding the ABS filament. I've had the printer since last July and my goal is to be able get both print heads printing PLA and ABS in good quality. Where I'm weak is knowing how to configure the Marlin header files to match my particular printer configuration - which is a stock dual hybrid Titan. I will also admin that I am a beginner with 3D printers and realize now that getting a Big Box was biting off more than I can chew. I'm comfortable with software development, Arduinos, electronics, but am a bit lost with the various different Big Box configurations being used in this forum, correct software build, and settings for my model. Currently my printer is crashing into left and right sides of the printer and crashing into the bed when I try to level it. Last firmware update this evening has ended in a blank blue LCD panel. The last time this happened I had to connect the Marlin board directly to my laptop and flash it - OctoPrint does not seem to be actually uploading any code. Cheers Larry Basel Switzerland
Hi Larry, Can you post some photos of the printhead? Did you wire it with the left bowden extruder as T0 and the right direct extruder as T1? Which slicer are you using?
I have a small diary of the printer build here on Google+ https://plus.google.com/u/0/collection/EMSecB Here are shots of the print head taken just now.
I haven't even started to use 3D modeling software or slicers. I downloaded a test print file for a 1cm cube. This is it so far. -Larry
The head looks good..... The link gave a 404 error. Lets get the Rumba back up and going first.... Go here | https://github.com/BigBox3D/Firmware Download the stock firmware for your machine | marlin_hybrid_dual.hex Get XLoader | http://russemotto.com/xloader/ Try to flash the Rumba..... Report back here with the results.....
The prints look fine for a first print. The bashing of the head is nothing to do with the firmware and is a result of the incorrect g-code being sent to the machine.
Preparing to flash the hex with XLoader... Here is another link - hope this works - I pasted it into a new browser session and its working - perhaps only because I'm logged into Google+ https://plus.google.com/u/0/collection/EMSecB -Larry
Is it possible that the extruder grinding the filament has a defective hobbed gear? https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/titan-not-extruding-correctly.1214/page-3#post-14906
Flashing with above instructions resulted in zero bytes uploaded. See my Youtube taken during this flashing episode - Rumba board flashes like something is being uploaded - correct com port is selected. Once flashing is done, I power down the printer, plug the OctoPrint into the Rumba and power the Big Box back up but LCD is still blank and no communication with OctoPrint XLoader flashing of my Big Box: -Larry
If the flashing has worked it will give the number of bytes uploaded and automatically reboot the Rumba where you will see something ont he LCD. You don't need to cycle the power for that to happen. I would also leave the Raspberry Pi unplugged for now, that includes the power cable to the DC/DC converter. I think you may have corrupted the USB controller firmware somehow. There is a fix, it is a bit tricky though | http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#Troubleshooting If you are comfortable having a go then please do. The alternative is to either find someone local who can do it, or send it back and I'll see what can be done. Another other option is to buy a new Rumba while the other is sent back for flashing.
Reviving the USB controller was unsuccessful - Flip is not able to connect to the USB on the board - installed USB driver per the Rumba instructions but when I remove the temporary jumper the board does not seem to go into DFU mode (LEDs flash once and then go dark). Have tried a couple of other USB cables also. I did change the Rumba power jumper to USB power mode. I believe this happened once before back in August and I think I used my Atmel Ice or Dragon to reflash the USB firmware - will have to find those instructions again. -Larry
With my Atmel ICE programmer I was able to flash both the USB driver on the ATMega 16U2 and the ATMega 2560 with their respective hex files. Used Atmel studio and was able to program and verify both. With the jumpers back where they should be and power up the big box, the LED1 is blinking one short and one long - see photo attached - what is this, an error message? XLoader still uploads zero bytes. -Larry
Greg, I thought I had a horrible alignment issue or something else wrong when my print head was bashing into the print. I removed the left nozzle and still had this issue during layer 15 of a print. I rebooted everything and tried again after checking z frame movement and the print competed successfully. Is this happening with new version of Octoprint sending wrong gcode to the printer? is anyone else experiencing this?
@ldaponte The hex file is too small to have the LCD enabled. What profile/branch did you use when flashing?
Here is the hobbed gear (I think) with bits of ABS. The Bowden setup with PLA is feeding ok - print quality is not great yet but its not chewing up the filament. The direct drive (right side nozzle) with ABS is the one pictured here. I've tried increasing the nozzle temperature but that did not help. At the moment I need to get the Rumba back up - flashing error code (see video above) on LED1 is new since flashing the USB and boot loader code. Looking for a trouble shooting strategy for the Rumba. I was never able to get the 16U2 in DFU mode (flashing tx/rx) but had good luck with the Atmel ICE programmer ISP connection in that I was able to erase and load the hex files for both 16U2 and 2560 and verify them without error. Once the Rumba is back up I can focus on the mechanical issues. Again, what should I try next to revive the Rumba? Thanks -Larry