I started and nearly completed the build minus the wiring. There are some tips and corrections I think could be useful to others. Don't use thread lock on any screws where thread lock could come into contact with the plexiglass panels - they will crack (mine cracked). I would say "hand tighten" for plexiglass should even be "stop at resistance". Since I have to remove my panels I might actually look for plastic/rubberized washer to go between the metal and plexiglass because you do move the machine around a bit while building. I wouldn't bother putting the two side panels on until after section 9 - just makes it easier to work inside the printer. In addition I wouldn't do section 7 (spool holders) until the side panels are on so after section 9 as well. Skip section 6 (bed install) until you get to wiring. You need a M3 and a M2.5 thread tap. Correction for section 2 (electronics) step 4 within says "16 x M4 8mm Button Head Screws" and "16 x M4 6mm Button Head Screws" but I am pretty sure I only needed 8 of each. If your Titan clicks or feels like it has a weird bump when manually spinning the gear you likely did what I did and one of your motor gears grub screw is on the wrong end. Grub screw hole needs to be closest to the motor away from the plastic gear. The picture shows it correctly, I just did not notice. For the Titan gear spacing I used a long M3 screw to get the "3mm" depth for the Titan gear and it was exactly right every time. I had trouble popping out the motor mount plexiglass discs so I ended up using an exacto knife to weaken two connections the circle makes to the rest of the plastic.
Good tip. To add to this I would say DO use the supplied allan key. I have some ball end hex drivers and use those for one, but it's just not as tight fighting as the supplied key. By the way. DO rotate round the flat part of the shaft under the grub before tightening !
I used two screwdrivers, one each side of the acrylic, each side of the hole, to push each side of the popout in order to rotate. No hands free for a picture of that. I did this before I removed the protective cover.
YMMV on those supplied wrenches. They’re super cheapos, and tolerances are all over the place. One of them i got would just spin completely freely in the grub screw socket (yes, it was the right size), while the other you had to jam in real hard to get it to bottom out in the socket.
One of my ball hexes was a smidgen too small for the grub internal and probably ended up making it tough to undo in the future. Maybe don't use balls, and do use decent keys then.
More tips now that mine is built and working (but not calibrated): Remember when I said I was going to find washers with rubber padding? They make Neoprene backed washers - don't use these - I checked and neoprene reacts with plexi glass. I just decided to forgo this idea. The bed power on the DUET is reversed from the board power (why?) - wish they were consistent with negative on one side positive on the other. This initially kept my bed from heating. The mains wiring is awfully vague - maybe you did this on purpose. I have done mains before, but I would have liked to at least know the power switch layout. First time I followed a nearly identical looking switch diagram as the one included but it was wrong and always lit up the switch until I swapped sides. If you have a DUET screen like me and run the cable under the printer to the front I would wrap the cable in something protective. The aluminum edges are super sharp. Make sure tool wires do not rub against the belts during operation. Apparently the endstop cable is not used Editing config.g with wifi info did not get my DUET to connect to wifi. I had to connect with usb serial and manually put in the gcode to finally get it to connect. The directions for flashing the DUET firmware is not great. I am hesitant to give tips here since my DUET is older than many of the ones you likely received from E3D and there are a lot of different ways to do things. The best advice I can give is if you are struggling to connect it to wifi use the manual process by copying firmware to SD and then connecting with serial over USB to the DUET and run the firmware upgrades from there. I believe in some cases you have to upgrade WIFI firmware at the same time as board firmware. I had to rename my firmware file as well. Not that it is hard to acquire, but the directions reference an included benchy pre-sliced. The E3D reprap files did not include said benchy. It is kind of a bold move on E3D's part to recommend starting the print without adjusting nozzle height... I took the leap of faith with my finger over the emergency stop button and was lucky. You might want to do better than me and actually calibrate the nozzle height.
Yes. You have to do this first time in order to establish the password for your SSID. Don't be tempted to put the password in your config.g. DC42 specifically recommends against this.(https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M589_Configure_access_point_parameters). Something on the forum talks about potentially damaging the life of your board memory if you do.
It's not easy designing a PCB to carry 18A of bed heater current, even when using 2oz copper top and bottom as we do. The bed heater terminals are the way round that they are in order to reduce the PCB area needed for the traces, while making them wide enough to avoid overheating. The main power terminals are the same way round as on all earlier Duets, because changing them wold be asking for trouble!
Sorry for my assumption that it would be easy to do. Clearly I am not an electrical engineer and should not comment on things that are not my area of expertise. The heater bed negative and positive were the only wiring I mixed up (even after I thought I had checked everything).
Not surprised about the Duetwifi config. I am REALLY glad I installed one in my CR1 as a learning exercise in prep for the tool changer.. Theres a lot to learn here. IMO the Duetwifi gets attached to my desktop machine via USB and gets it's wifi connection setup before it gets mounted into the machine. After that I'll install it into the machine with the Duex.
Since you can just take off the backplate, you can still connect it to your PC once it is in the machine. The accessibility is not as much of an issue as it was with a BigBox Duet conversion.
Yes... unless you use a desktop machine to do the config and not a laptop. Getting the 2 devices close enough to attach a USB can be tricky when one is in the office and the other is in the shop.
If your system includes a PanelDue then it's possible to use that to do the WiFi configuration, unless your WiFi paraphrase is very long or includes characters not on the PanelDue keyboard.
I looked in the panel due menus of a previously built duetwifi machine. I could not find where I could do this.
You use the keyboard to send the appropriate M587 command, instead of sending it from a PC connected via USB.
Still some way off receiving my unit but been following these threads. IMO the single best thing about the Prusa i3 kit (for anyone unfamiliar with it) is the online instruction manual where users are able to add comments to each step to point out areas of confusion, common pitfalls, etc. Don't know if such a system is worth implementing here?
I have built both Prusa and the Tool changer from there build guides respectively, and I have to say both a realy good guides, as for the comments part, I would tell you tough it is a great resource, my experience in this forum is way more informative and enjoyable, not only your questions get answered fast, you get inspired along the way with peoples Ideas
Prusa's instructions and the e3d's instructions both use dozuki, and it appears you can add comments. Though given the relative sizes of the user base between a mk3 and a toolchanger it's not surprising that there aren't as many comments.
