I am using the stock aneta8 with lot of upgrades for over a year now. I recently bought the E3D Lite6 bowden kit because my stock anet A8 heatbreak broke. Before i was printing with a direct extruder but i wanted to get rid of some ghosting (weak AnetA8 acryl frame). I decided to upgrade to a better hotend but I'm having a lot of trouble getting a good quality print again... With the 3D bowden setup but I amexperiencing a lot of underextrusion and stringing. I got underextrusion that much that i could break the Benchy apart using my hands. Also the nozzle clogging happened to me once. Took apart the extruder and fixed it, propably the bowden wasn't correctly pushed to the nozzle. I did many different tweaking with the settings in cura and reading a lot on the internet about fixing stringing and underextrusion. I printed a temperature tower and found out that I need to print at a way higher temperature. On the image below you can see the stock hotend tower on the left (printed about half a year ago) and on the right the E3D tower. Both I checked that the temperature was changing during print. It looks like I need to print at 220 degrees with PLA. With the stock hotend I always printed the same fillament at 195 degrees and the PLA supplier advices to print between 190-215 (123-3D PLA). Printed the tower again to see if the nozzle wasn't clogged but I got the same results. With the stock hotend you can barrely see a change in quality at changing temps. In marlin I'm using '#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5' which is the same as the stock hotend used. I think it's weird that I need to print at a temperature that high now. I also have to lower the fan speed because the hotend cools down too much at this temperature. Maybe need to do some PID tuning if I keep it at this temp. Also can't get the sillicone sock to stick to the heating block, keeps falling off. Any suggestions what may be wrong? Or is this normal?
