New BigBox build, any must have upgrades?

Discussion in 'Build Help' started by Craig Martin, Mar 19, 2018.

  1. Craig Martin

    Craig Martin Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2018
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hello all

    I am starting a new big box upgrade for a dual print head machine, and I wanted to know if there are any "must have" upgrades or mods that I should incorporate. I am mainly concerned with upgrades that would increase print quality and accuracy. Thanks in advance for your assistance.

    Craig
     
  2. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2015
    Messages:
    372
    Likes Received:
    225
    Oh my so many possibilities...
    Are you starting from a working unit? Which one?
     
  3. MyMakibox

    MyMakibox Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2014
    Messages:
    58
    Likes Received:
    18
    These leadscrews. They're easy to install during the build but very difficult after, and apparently make a big difference to print quality.

    https://e3d-online.com/leadscrew-motor

    Ignore the "you'll also need" anti-backlash nuts.
     
    potti5 likes this.
  4. Craig Martin

    Craig Martin Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2018
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hello

    No i am building from scratch. I have a laser cutter and a anet a8 printer currently. Building a 3d mill now
     
    potti5 likes this.
  5. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2015
    Messages:
    372
    Likes Received:
    225
    Oh wow! If that's the case, then I would recommend many things. What material are you thinking? Plywood, acrylic, or polycarbonate?
     
  6. gonzalo

    gonzalo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    129
    Welcome aboard!
    You might not like this but, I don’t think that the BigBox frame is one of its strengths... I am done trying to upgrade mine any further. I am moving to an aluminum extrusion frame that will give increased rigidity for print quality and print speed. It will also allow for easier modding. The space constraints of the B.B. frame will not let you do some things right.
     
  7. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    791
    Likes Received:
    117
  8. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2015
    Messages:
    372
    Likes Received:
    225
    I'm actually a fan of the panelized frame, but there were problems with maintenance because certain parts were impossible to access without frame disassembly. I did a complete redesign of the frame so that short of pulling the power supply, you should never have to take the frame apart. If you want I can post photos of some of the details. A couple of my changes might not be a good idea if you're committed to using acrylic because of crack propagation risks.

    I have an aluminum frame here and a friend is doing final wiring on a polycarbonate version. I would be pretty comfortable using plywood as well but I prefer non-flammable/fire resistant structures.
     
  9. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    32
    The bad accessibility of stuff is really bad. I'd love to have a more accessible frame made from aluminium and anodized in a nice color...
    How did you make your frame, did you cut it on a CNC router or did you use a laser?
     
  10. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2015
    Messages:
    372
    Likes Received:
    225
    Here's a couple views showing maintainability changes.

    From the front you can see several changes.

    1) The Y-idler mounting pattern is taller to make room for removing the Y-guide rods through the front panel with no frame disassembly.
    2) There are access slots on the side panels to make it easy to work on the Y-axis belts and to access the Y-drive pulleys at the back.

    EphBox3 front.jpg

    And yes, I usually hang my common maintenance tools off my magnetic hatch latches :)

    EphBox3 Inside.jpg

    Looking at the inside you can see one of the top access ports used to access the Y-bearing clamps. Also you can see my simplified Z-platform that eliminates the crazy ziggurats in the original kits. Leveling is done one handed using a hex key. No other wrenches are required.

    I have the rear, and upper support panels cut, but they are not installed because I have been unprepared to completely disassemble the machine to install them. When I have some down time I will, but this cuts to the original problem with maintenance. My redesign eliminates a lot of problem points where there's no way to install certain screws without removing the bottom, etc.

    As for construction, the panels are 3/16" (4.76 mm) 6061 aluminum. The panels were waterjet cut by a local fabrication shop. Because they have a lot of small pieces laying around, and they're great guys, pricing was surprisingly competitive. The price included the brushed aluminum finish that I quite like.
     
    #10 Ephemeris, Apr 4, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2018
    Paul Begley, mhe and Jari like this.
  11. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    32
    That's so hawt. The side openings are great, if I saw that correctly you could just loosen the screws for the X-rods and slide them out to the side, therefore replacing your whole printhead assembly without taking the gantry out. Genius. That would even work with the IDEX Aero linear rail system provided the opening on the side is high enough, the rail sits pretty high up.

    Maintenance on an original Bigbox is a lot more tedious than on your metal badass version. Wish somebody would do metal frame kits...
     

Share This Page