NinjaFlex

Discussion in 'Filament' started by PsyVision, Mar 15, 2016.

  1. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    So. First time using this recently. I printed two tyres for the OpenRC F1 car I'm making fine on Sunday. Turned the BigBox on last night to print some and the filament keeps wrapping around the hob gear.

    It will print maybe the first 3 layers of the part before it starts to not feed properly. I am wondering whether as the fan is increasing, the hotend is struggling to keep temp and then it can't push the filament through as easily? Not that NinjaFlex really needs a push as it is so dribbly.

    Printing at 230 with 25mm/s speed.

    I tried heating my hotend to 240 but it wouldnt reach it - I need to adjust my PID by the looks of it.
     
  2. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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    Have you tweaked your retraction settings, ninjaflex likes next to zero. There was a ninjaflex mod for the v6 extruder that narrowed the space at the drive gear even further but I can't find it ATM.

    It is well known for being a mare to print with. I was mightily impressed you got those 2 wheels done so painlessly.
     
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  3. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    I haven't removed / lowered retraction, I probably should so thank you for suggesting that.

    I'm not sure how easy it is to mod this on the BigBox as it's getting squeezed out between the hob bolt and where it enters the tube below. It's almost as though you want to open up the top and extend the PTFE tuber right up to the gear.
     
  4. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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  5. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    Thanks. That looks interesting, I wonder if I can butcher it to some extent for the BigBox.
     
  6. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    Temp 240 and less fan and its away again :D
     
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  7. Springfield-Jack

    Springfield-Jack Well-Known Member

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    IMG_0182.JPG IMG_0185.JPG IMG_0187.JPG Had some success at 225 and 20mm/s still need to fiddle with retraction to eliminate those zits-not bad for a first attempt- I was impressed with the detail!
     
  8. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    That's good! There is a newer profile that removes the extra restart distance that I think causes those zits. I haven't had any at all in my tyres.

    I printed at 240 last night, 25mm/s and with retractions on and it worked fine!
     
  9. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

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    Cool. Where did you get the profile you're talking about? I've got a roll of ninja flex to try and I've got my shipping notification so hopefully this time next week I'll be good to go.

    I shudder to think what you'd do with a flexible Nefertiti. Anything can be a something if you're brave enough I suppose ;)
     
  10. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    @Kanedias This is the new dual profile that Greg posted in the Guinea Pig thread. Either that or take the ones on the wiki and just modify the retraction settings. Beware though, the new dual profile has z-lift enabled by default so the profile I'm using is a mash up to achieve the required results.
     
  11. Springfield-Jack

    Springfield-Jack Well-Known Member

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    It's a EU mandated "safe" hood ornament I want to get rid of the "zits" because it maybe the last thing some unfortunate pedestrian ever sees!:D
     
  12. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    @PsyVision , there's no tool change on @Springfield-Jack 's model so extra restart distance shouldn't be a factor. Zits can only be fully removed with spiral vase printing I think. They're just a physical manifestation of where the tool ends (or starts) drawing the outline. What you can do is decide where to assemble them. These two settings will put zits all over the place:

    [​IMG]

    Whereas this setting lets you pick a position on the bed to collect all start and end points together (as far as it can manage)

    [​IMG]

    Those numbers try to collect all zits at the right center of the model. You can choose this point for each print, or rotate your model on the virtual bed to suit. For the head you printed, I would probably choose to make the seam at the back of the neck. This would also let you focus on post processing effort on that one main seam if you did want to try to remove it.
     
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  13. rdahm

    rdahm Member

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    I'm still fine-tuning this, but these settings work REALLY well for me
    I'll take print pictures once I've printed something that's not for a client

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. rdahm

    rdahm Member

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    Ok my latest complaint is that I'm still on the original extruder (single) and it is terrible with the flexy stuff. Filament feed has to be way closer to the hobble gear to really work right i.e. NO EXTRA ROOM, otherwise you continually have filament roll into there and you more-or-less have to babysit the printer. I suppose I'll look at the new carriages, but I really don't want to spend cash on the Titan since this printer was already late and underwhelming. Might just redesign the current carriage to be less oafish.

    That is tempting but if I'm going to take it apart and drill it, I'd like to address a bunch of other issues too (bolt head availability, etc) so it seems easier to just CAD, print, and trash what didn't work.
     
  15. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    The only other fix I really got for this was to print even slower, but I'm on the Titans now (not that I've tried Ninja with that yet)
     
  16. rdahm

    rdahm Member

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    I unfortunately have to print in it a lot, because even with a small headache it's still faster than printing molds and casting urethanes or silicone for prototypes. Made a little printable modification last night, and between a top-mounted filament holder, slow printing and the little modification block, things worked really well for 4+ hours with no problems. There are more flex items on the print queue so we'll do more today, and I'll upload pictures and a copy of the hobble guard later.
     
  17. PsyVision

    PsyVision Moderator
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    That sounds good, the hob guard would probably benefit a lot of people here that haven't upgraded to the Titan.
     
  18. Ualdayan

    Ualdayan Member

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    Could you send your modification to me? I'm still on the stock extruder too, and flexibles just want to keep squeezing right out exactly where you said it was happening to you (even at 10mm, no retraction, and higher temperature than normal)
     
  19. rdahm

    rdahm Member

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    Parts live on Thingiverse -
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1667063 - mine, single extruder only, two mount options
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672140 - Ualdayan's, dual extruder, one mount option

    And as much as I'm sure people love it, the Titan option was like being told that your new, late-to-be-delivered custom laptop is defunct even though you haven't been able to play with it or use it yet. I had literally not even received my BB when y'all offered an upgrade. Just fills me with resentment. E3D will get $0 more from me until I have got this stupid, illiterate robot running well.
     
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  20. Bluemalu

    Bluemalu Well-Known Member

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    1st print in NinjaFlex ongoing, one observation though, if using @Alex9779 S3D settings, don't forget to add ; in the G Code scripts for those large retracts so they are ignored. I didn't and spent a nice few hours stripping out the 2nd extruder due to a length of flexible filament sticking due to the speed of retraction.parting below the hobbed drive in the PTFE and chuntering to myself.

    On another note, might be worth moving this into the Filaments forum.
     

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