Nozzle Cleaning

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by Jasons_BigBox, Mar 9, 2017.

  1. Jasons_BigBox

    Jasons_BigBox Well-Known Member

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    Evening all,

    I'm looking for some tips on how to clean out a nozzle. I've had a few jams with a particular nozzle and have tried a couple of ways to clean it with a little success but I am wondering how others do it.

    In this case it's a 0.4mm but could be any I suppose. I tried heating and hand pushing filament and removing several times but no joy. It takes more than usual force to push filament out. I tried using a small drill bit in a pin vice to gently remove small amounts but I'm worried about cutting the nozzle itself. I then tried soaking in chemicals. That softened the material and I could get more out but the nozzle tip is still full.

    I don't really want to do a nozzle change again without being sure it's clear.

    Has anyone had any success with particular chemicals? It's be nice to clean the outside too. I've been printing with PLA, ABS and Colorfabb PLA/PHA but no filled or abrasive filament.

    I know it's possible to have metal fragments or other particles in there too and the nozzle would be a loss but it'd be good to know.

    Cheers


    Jason
     
  2. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Nylon cold pull if you are able to push anything by hand. You can also try cold pull by any material but nylon is king!

    The basics are:
    1. Heat to a temp to a good a temp where nylon melts enoug and you do not over cook the existing filament in nossle.
    2. Push the nylon through so you can see some come out the nozzle.
    3. Cool down the hot end so the filament have some time to solidify
    4. Nip of anything under the nozzle so there is nothing ankering it
    5. Heat the hot end to where the nylon is getting soft and stretchy but not melting. Can take several tries to dial in the correct temp. Maybe 90 - 120 deg somewhere. Depends on the filament.
    6. Pull out the filament by hand quickly while holding the tensioner back.
    Good tutorials here:

    https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en...logging-the-Hotend-using-the-Cold-Pull-method
    https://www.trideus.be/en/blogs/live/tips-tricks-do-the-cold-pull/

    If this fails you neet to take it all apart and use a blow-torch to burn away any residue.
     
  3. Jasons_BigBox

    Jasons_BigBox Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Stian, I'd seen that recommended somewhere too but I've not got any nylon material.

    The nozzle is out of the machine so the more dramatic options are available.

    Thanks

    J
     
  4. Paul Winter

    Paul Winter Well-Known Member

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    Might also be worth getting hold of some steel electric guitar strings - use the solid wire strings, not the wound type.
    My Ernie Ball Custom Gauge 16 string comes in at 0.4mm, and the Custom Gauge 11 string is 0.2mm

    In the old days, you used to be able to get a Primus Stove pricker, for unblocking the nozzle when it was hot and running. Just a stamped metal handle with a piece of wire attached to the end, and you poked the nozzle with the thin wire. Just cut a short length of guitar string, bend 5mm into an L shape, and poke it up the nozzle when it is hot.
    Alternatively, poke a length of the wire down through the nozzle to remove the carbon after you used the nuclear option to burn the filament out.
    NB: If using the blowtorch to burn PETG out of a nozzle, do it outside :eek:
     
  5. Jasons_BigBox

    Jasons_BigBox Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Paul,

    I'm sure I have some spare guitar strings somewhere. I'll give it a go.

    Jason
     
  6. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    I still have a dark patch on my asfalt outside.
     
    mike01hu likes this.
  7. Paul Winter

    Paul Winter Well-Known Member

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    @Stian,
    Thanks for making me laugh :D
     

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