Nylon tips

Discussion in 'Calibration, Help, and Troubleshooting' started by Henry feldman, Mar 28, 2016.

  1. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    So about to print the pelletizer for my new Filastruder (thanks @elmoret - can't wait to try it out!) and have not printed in nylon. Other than changing my coating on the bed to the Nitro coating for bonding nylon, any tips? I will be using Nylon 910...
     
  2. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    758
    Likes Received:
    112
    Nylon abosorbs water form the air very quickly. I am not sure what this might do in the filastruder but if your getting bubbles in the filiment or in the extrusion of the hot end you will need to dehydrate the filiment.

    The bubbles form when water boils as the material is heated creating a nasty looking print. I hear people throw it in the over for something like 6 hours at at 70C I think but I would look it up the exact time and temp before attempting to dry it.
     
  3. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    Oh sorry, I am not putting nylon IN the filastruder, I am printing a part FOR the filastruder. Yes, Taulman3D recommends baking it for some time in the oven (although hopefully I don't have to coming out of the vacuum sealed spool). I meant printer settings/tips.
     
  4. Miasmictruth

    Miasmictruth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Messages:
    758
    Likes Received:
    112
    Ah yes I see now. The one time I tried nylon even out of the package it needed drying but it wasn't Taulman, I don't believe it suppose to be terribly tricky as long as it's dry.

    On a side note I did later buy Taulman just haven't craked it open yet, so if you have any advice after getting firmilar with it please post :)
     
  5. Sarah Nicholson

    Sarah Nicholson Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2015
    Messages:
    319
    Likes Received:
    114
    Sorry don't have much to add either, since nylon printing is one of the reasons I'm upgrading to the BB. I should have some Bridge coming with my BigBox, so I'll definitely be interested to share experiences once I have a chance to try it out myself. I've actually just started building a dry feeder box for particularly moisture loving filaments, since my study is over an unheated garage and hence cooler and damper than the rest of the house.
     
  6. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    I have Bridge, 910 and T-Lyne which I am expecting to use shortly...
     
  7. Madeinoz67

    Madeinoz67 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    12
    I love to print in Nylon and the Taulman range is fantastic. I once did a job for someone for some car roof racks, I was very hesitant but he was a mech engineer and ordered one for destructive testing, was better than injection moulded item.

    I have yet to do any prints on my BigBox in nylon.

    I print much like ABS but with hotter hottend, around 265-275

    If you hear popping at this temp then you have a moisture problem, I always have my nylon sitting in a desiccant storage box after first initially doing the oven bake thing, I made the storage box by modifying a plastic cereal container with a hole in the top so I don't have to remove, although I must try the Thing Tom has suggested by putting into freezer. Once nylon is dry it prints like a dream, can have a bit of curling but is easily managed with extra wide skirts and glue stick on the build plate.

    When doing the oven bake its better to lower temp for longer else you will overcook as I once did on a brand new reel, and ruined it :(
     
    #7 Madeinoz67, Mar 30, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  8. Madeinoz67

    Madeinoz67 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    12
    Here is the Taulman Range of recommended settings. http://taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.html

    I highly recommend their bridge range of Nylon and is what I do most of my nylon printing in.

    I'm about to do my first print in nylon on my Bigbox, Gears for the Filawinder :) My order from filastruder came in today so will also be building my filastruder this weekend :D

    +1 thanks @elmoret
     
  9. Madeinoz67

    Madeinoz67 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    12
    My big box settings is using the Default Pro S3D profile settings with the following changes:

    Turn off cooling
    Extruder Temp 250
    Bed Temp 45
    They do recommend some longer retraction depending on size of your nozzle, but I haven't changed from default.

    Is currently printing no problems at all. Will post some pics when its finished.
     
    Hans C. likes this.
  10. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    mostly done with mine (didn't have a 5/64" hex key) - BTW: the hex keys are SAE not metric (surprise). I had to dremel out my pipe opening a bit as the milled out hole had a lot of sprue sticking into the barrel. Easy enough with a grind-cone on the dremel. Also the laser cut enclosure left a lot of black residue on your hands/table when working with it...
     
    Madeinoz67 likes this.
  11. Madeinoz67

    Madeinoz67 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    12
    Ditto on all your comments.....I realised late last night when I started assembly that its not metric so about to head to my fathers workshop to borrow his tools as mine are all metric.

    totally agree with the enclosure, my hands were black by the time I had finished sorting and taking tape off. Acetone doesn't get rid of the burn marks that got under the protective tape.

    How are you going to mount your extruder, vertical or horizontal? I'm thinking of mounting vertical on a board/stand so I can move it around. Looking for a vertical feed hopper that suits V2 housing
     
  12. Madeinoz67

    Madeinoz67 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    12
    Bridge Nylon is one of my favourite materials to print with. Here are the gears for the winder all done.

    IMG_4964.JPG
     
  13. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser took the smoke marks right off without marring the surface. I think I will mount horizontal to start, and once I can print the peletizer then I can start on my new filament experiment... Oh and the sample pellets that came in the box, ruptured in shipping... fun...
     
    Madeinoz67 likes this.
  14. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2014
    Messages:
    586
    Likes Received:
    91
    @Henry feldman I'm sorry about the bursted pellet bag, and I've refunded accordingly so you can purchase more as needed. I'll look into double bagging the pellets.

    Otherwise: Yes, the lasercut MDF parts are messy. I talked to the SeeMeCNC guys at MRRF hoping to gain some insight about cutting MDF cleanly, and they agreed that the parts are dirty and their hands are black after assembling a printer. I'm looking into what can be done, at minimum perhaps wiping down the edges as they come out of the laser. I'm also looking at acrylic instead, though it is about 3x more expensive. Open to suggestions.

    Shaft collar is SAE, this is because the shaft of the auger is closest to SAE sizes. I'll make a note in the instructions.

    As far as the hopper: I extrude horizontally so my experience is not of too much help, but this:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1195942

    should work, especially if turned to this side like this:

    http://i.imgur.com/7h5Jenq.jpg
     
    #14 elmoret, Apr 2, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2016
  15. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    @elmoret , haha, I was trying to figure out what that refund was for :). Not to worry, this device is way out on the spectrum of expert-level DIY devices so a few spilled pellets were not really an issue (a thicker ziplock [freezer grade] might fix that right up) and have a few Kg on hand to do my experiment. For me this is a piece of lab equipment, not to make cheaper filament, but to push the envelope in what can be printed, so my tolerance for minor things is high...

    There are some suggestions that I would make on both the device and directions to make it clearer (I'd be happy to help with some directions/photos), but let's just get some simple device things. The big suggestion I would add to the device construction is a small custom PCB that does the joining of the wiring - even as an option/upgrade. The running wires to and fro gets a bit spaghetti like... In the absence of that a barrier strip suffices. I've been using the inventibles heat-shrink-self-soldering butt connectors to join things, but it ain't pretty (and I do worry about a wire catching on the shaft).

    It would be extremely useful to throw a barrier strip jumper into the mix, like what I used to bridge 8-9 on the PID controller. Just way easier to do than a wire.

    Not a huge fan of the power supply cut off lead thing (might mod mine to have a pluggable PS jack for safety). Finally the clearance between the shaft and the top of the PID controller is extremely tight (like <~1mm at best) which works in the vertical mode, but in horizontal seems to rest right on the controller top??). This is so tight, not sure I feel confident in running with the case on? Did I do something wrong?

    [​IMG]
     
  16. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2014
    Messages:
    586
    Likes Received:
    91
    It would be best to create a thread over on Soliforum rather than getting off topic here, plus then other Filastruder users can search for the information. Always happy to hear suggestions on how the instructions could be better, too.

    No wires need to be joined, with the exception of lengthening the heater wires. Butt splices and heat shrink are provided for this.

    Those spade terminals are unnecessary, and are most likely contributing to the PID controller not fitting properly. There is no problem running the sires directly to the screw terminals. You can run 4 wires per screw terminal, two twisted together on each side of the screw itself.

    It looks like you have sufficient clearance - by design, its about 1mm of clearance. Even if shank of the feedscrew were to rub a bit on the PID controller, it wouldn't cause any operational problems. If you prefer, you can run without the case - it serves no purpose functionally/structurally.
     
    #16 elmoret, Apr 3, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2016
  17. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    918
    Likes Received:
    183
    Am not sure about MDF but lasercut some 6mm Birch plywood (like http://intaglioprintmaker.com/sites/default/files/products/p6ply303.jpg ) last week and it's very easy to do so with burnt black edges, but if one takes the time to test higher speeds (or lower powers) until it is only JUST cuts through, then the edges are brown but not black and there's no dirt (soot). The power of laser tubes varies over time (and from machine to machine, according to lens cleanliness, focus....) so nobody is too clever to do some test pieces before they start a job - even if they think they know the material. Though people who do it all the time may be cocksure or lazy.
     
  18. elmoret

    elmoret Administrator

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2014
    Messages:
    586
    Likes Received:
    91
    It is no problem to get clean edges on Birch, I've done that before. Melamine covered MDF is a different beast since it is a mix of sawdust and glue, wheres plywood just has a couple thin layers of glue and the the majority is wood. I'm using air assist, still no dice.

    I'd love for clean cuts with this material to be possible, but haven't year heard of anyone doing it - at least not with the 60-80w range of CO2 lasers.
     
    #18 elmoret, Apr 3, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2016
  19. 3dtech

    3dtech Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2016
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    1
    Nylon 645 properties and characteristics
    • Pyrolysis Thermal Degradation: 340°C
    • Tensile Strength : 36MPa
    • Elongation at Break : 186%
    • Standard Tolerance : ± 0.01 mm
    • Layer Thickness/Height : .2mm Maximum for Best Resolution
    • Melt Temperature : 194°C
    • Opacity : 65%
    • Density: 1.08g/cm^3
    • Heat Deflection: 3.00mm
    • Color : Natural
    • Shrinkage- in/in : 0.0062
    What Is Nylon Material?
    Nylon is that there is almost no de-lamination. The binding of thread-to-thread is comparatively higher than with ABS or PLA, despite the parts being subject to splitting at right angle transitions. Nylon 645 is a nylon 6/9, or a variant of nylon 6 and nylon 6T with a crystallinity optimization procedure. This provides a high degree of transparency. The transparency permits the commercial internal control teams to guage written components while not harmful analysis.
     

Share This Page