IDEAS Plum Coupler

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Bluemalu, Sep 16, 2016.

  1. Bluemalu

    Bluemalu Well-Known Member

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    Saw mention of plum coupler upgrades in the past and they have finally arrived. Fitted them but come across a couple (no pun intended) issues for others to be aware of.

    (1) Obvious one really but the couplers aren't as svelte as the original spring ones so you loose the Z back to original (280mm), so watch out if you use @Alex9779 firmware Z max without modifying.

    This lead me to modify the lower skirt of the bed to allow for it to pass over the coupler and also a couple of new bed supports with greater diameter (Drawings to follow once I've proved to myself it works).

    (2) Taking the dimensions from the original (bed support) .STL it gave a height of 23.25mm, in the process I thought I'd print out some new corners as well, these however, are 23mm high. Not sure how much difference it will make but it all adds up.
     

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  2. Bluemalu

    Bluemalu Well-Known Member

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    Ah, there was me worrying about 0.25mm, when I printed out 4 new corners they came out with a Z of 26mm. The print took a long time and the man cave was warm. Going to have to check the voltages, temperatures and lubrication for the Z axis. Printed out just a single corner today and it was 24mm. Was hoping to get all the parts printed before a rebuild of the bed.

    Thinking about, as I want them all to be the same I should print all the pieces together
     
  3. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    That's not right! Check the forum, as someone else had height variations like this; it is not due to the "man-cave" environment specifically, but you may have Z-skips due to driver variations that can be tweaked out with the driver voltage.
     
  4. Bluemalu

    Bluemalu Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the sanity check, I've been trying to figure out the way ahead. Going to add a heat sink to the Z driver and up the current. Given one motor can handle 1.7A and the maximum the board can give with sufficient cooling is 2.2A I think I can increase it somewhat.

    On the other hand of changing only one thing at once I'll add the heat sinks and print again, then change the current if it's not right as up to this point other than own goals the printer has been fine.
     
  5. Bluemalu

    Bluemalu Well-Known Member

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    Soooooo, not liking leaving threads hanging thought I'd finish this one off. Put a heat sink (taken from an old memory card PCB) and fitted it to the Z axis, checked my voltages (X,Y,Z,E0, E1 as per the manual), upped the Z voltage to 0.75V and hit print. Very pleased with myself decided to print out something different (3DLabPrints Spitfire), Port wing printing away nicely so I thought I'd take some pictures with a Flir One thermal camera just so see.
    BigBox Z toasty.JPG
    Please note the picture is made up of 2 images one IR and one normal superimposed, unfortunately at close range the separation of two cameras on the unit causes as shift (also, when I took the picture I didn't notice and could have rotated the camera 90 degrees). Much better, unfortunately, in taking the cooling fan off to take the picture the extruder started (E1 in this case (RHS for BigBox Dual V1.0)).

    So, I took the opportunity to add heat sinks onto both E0 and E1 and tweak up the voltage to 0.75V.
    BigBox with heat sinks.JPG

    After that it was time to see what speed I could get out of the system, so I sliced up a shape and tried a speed test from 50mm/s up to 100mm/s. The max speeds I have in my firmware are 150, 150, 25, 100 mm/s for X, Y, Z and E respectively (although I tweaked up E on the BigBox control panel as I expected it to fail (and it was quick and dirty)).

    What I hadn't taken into account was the affect the slicer has with respect to cooling, I'd removed the speeds override in cooling but left on the fan override on all but on (hence how I noticed), this had the effect of kicking on the cooling fans and almost causing a jam (thank you socks) before I figured out cause and effect. (Note the banding in the top cm, this is where the cooling fans were off then a slight panic when they came on (almost jam) and off. The Speeds started at 50mm/s increasing 5mm/s every 5mm.
    [​IMG]

    The whole debacle all started with Richard Horne and his O'Reilly course on using Simplify3D. - I can highly recommend it. So I hope this helps anyone.

    [​IMG]

    The above picture was with my old settings before starting this campaign for a Plum coupler upgrade and then the slow descent into chaos trying to gain more speed.

    As for the coupler upgrade - jury is out, now I've done it I'm not going to change but I'm not 100% sure if it's worth it.
     

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