Just wondering what other members selected for their E3D BigBox Lite, Pro or Dual... http://imgur.com/a/etkRJ
We never did get that quote on aluminum frames, I understand it wouldn't come by December but I am curious what the cost would be. A few people are seeing about sourcing this themselves, it would be helpful to have a baseline for what a reasonable estimate might be.
For over 1k, shouldn't it already come with aluminum? I mean don't get me wrong, it's an okay price, but they act like the price is so incredible. The r1+ comes pre assembled for 800, has a very nice build volume and has a great auto bed level. Plus, isn't acrylic the worst material to use? Like I thought wood was better.
anyways... I got an all white one, I figured a lot of people would choose that. I think a lime green and white combo would look quite cool.
Unfortunately, the plywood housing was no option for the dual pro sewpa dewpa Box during the KS campaign, iirc. Otherwise I would likely have chosen that. Ygwypf.
The R1+'s build volume is only 8.2"x8.2"x8 in the heated area. The bed leveling is also awful, completely unreliable and causes so many users headaches. I hated it so I put in an dual IR sensor like what's on the bigbox. It prints fine when you get a good first layer, but man that first layer can be a complete pain in the ass. Especially when your offset shifts every other day. Also for 1k you won't find any printer of this scale or design with metal anything. Even the Ultimaker uses a DiBond frame to save on costs since that's cheaper than aluminum. Even that the comparison strength is very similar. Wood is good because of the way the fibers are both flexible and rigid to different directions of stress. Acrylic is good because it has less flex. But there's a reason that wood is so popular and why Ultimaker still sells the 1 with it's wood frame. Granted some very humid environments are hard on plywood so you need to be sure to seal it. It should also be noted that Acrylic is not one particular thing. It's a catch all name for a variety of different chemical compositions in the same family. For example BigBox chose Perspex, the leading brand and the best quality stuff. Sure you can crack it if you try, but if you're careful and do things properly you'll end up with a very strong frame.
Thank you for the last part man. That's really what I was curious about. I figured they probably used an acrylic that's better than those Chinese ones. I just always heard acrylic is the worst. As far as metal, I mean I will say that the Wanhao i3 has it, and it's just 400, but I'm really not trying to be argumentative. If the acrylic is good, that's awesome. As far as the Robo, it's now like 11x10x9 or something like that. I will say that maybe you had an earlier model because I loved my robo's auto level. Maybe I didn't know how good it could be though? I just know I almost never had to worry about first layer though. Unfortunately, I had to sell it at the time and that's why I'm in the market again.
I took polar white because: a) I want to look at the prints and not the printer; b) A plain vanilla choice might have been faster for delivery, had a backer number system been not implemented..... ;-)
I initially had chilli red highlights then changed my mind. Sort of wish I hadn't now having seen how good it looks when built. Oh well.
I know the feeling I chickened out on the chilli red and went with a safe choice. Now that I have seen them they are awesome. Oh well
Same here I chickened out of the red because it looked a bit lipstick red in the mockup photos and the slate gray and white looked a bit less like a toy. Now I have seen photos of the red and black I would probably have gone for that. But hey this is a tool and I am not going to obsess about the colour any more than I do with screwdriver handles......it'll look great regardless.
Nope they still only have the 8.2"x8.2" heater. Even then the max volume is 220x254x210mm. I communicate with them quite a bit. I've been trying to convince them to get a bigger heater but "they're worried the power supply can't handle it" when they have 150W spare. They also removed the heater dimensions. The autoleveling is adequate, but they do some tricks to make it seem better, like a really fat first layer. Run G29 a bunch of time and you'll see a large swing in the values each time, also know as a lack of precision. I can make it work well enough, but the number of users who struggle with it is staggering. I can't count the number of "my extruder is printing in the air" and "my nozzle is digging into the bed" even when it was "just working yesterday"
Ya I hear about this a lot as well, I was initially swaying towards an R2 myself as it looks promising, but after I found out that e3d was coming out with a printer I jumped on that. It seems like everyone with an R1 wants to, or does take a e3d v6 and mod their robo to fit it, why not just start with an e3d from the start Bigbox ftw
Robo looked at using an E3D briefly but decided the Hexagon was a more affordable option for them. I think the number of people upgrading to the v6 has dropped off, but barnacules still has that really old video that to this day convinced people they need to upgrade to a v6. Which usually just causes more headaches because people don't know the basics to troubleshoot it when the mess something up. I'm not sold on the R2, especially since they "announced" the R2 in the beginning of 2015 for "August" delivery. Well now they have a totally new design and they post these incomplete renders that really makes me question just how close to production they actually are. Even then it's based on the Ultimaker 2 mechanics, which I'm sure there's a reason the Ultimaker does not have a motor on the gantry.
Ya Robo's response to the R2 was June when I asked, and even at that it didn't seem promising. Especially since its been like 2 years. I still like the features and the look of the machine, and it seemed like a good price point. However, it may still end up being 2017 and who knows what the machine will really be like.
Or if your dog steps on the top piece, you know the one in the build manual that is shown broken if you use a hammer... Ughhh