Printed Hemera Adaptor Screw List

Discussion in 'Tool heads & ToolChanger' started by Paul Arden, Apr 20, 2020.

  1. Paul Arden

    Paul Arden Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone have a list of screws used in the printed Hemera tool head Greg posted on Thingiverse here:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4008778

    I'm doing a test fit and while I am guessing a lot, given the warning now given about using screws even slightly too long with the Hemera cracking the shell I'd want to be pretty sure I have it right.

    With 6mm screws the parts of the fan shroud that mount to the Hemera stepper stick out about 4mm, where as the guide says max 3.25mm should be used. For that one I managed to get some washers in the counterbore but would be good to know which screws would be considered 'official' as such.

    The other place it would be good to know is the smaller screws that go through the PCF. The old V6 tool used 3 x M2.5 in two different lengths. However tapping or just screwing an M2.5 into those printed parts cracks them (I noticed this is the case in the pictures on Thingiverse as well). I might have to see if I can use M2 instead. Interested in anyone elses experiences.
     
  2. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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    I do.

    If you add an @ infront of my u/n i'll get a notification that I have been 'summoned' and can answer quicker :)


    1 x M6-6-SHFGS-BO
    2 x M3-3-SHGS-A2
    2 x M3-10-SHCS-A2
    4 x M2.5-6-SHCS-A2
    5 x M3-8-SHCSS-A2
    6 x M3-16-SHCS-A2
    7 x M3-6-BHCS-A2
     
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  3. Paul Arden

    Paul Arden Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Where are those catalogue numbers from? I'd just like to check whatever vendor that is to find equivilents here.
     
  4. Paul Arden

    Paul Arden Well-Known Member

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    I think I decoded it :)
    • 1 x M6-6-SHFGS-BO - M6x6mm Socket Head Flat Grub Screw
    • 2 x M3-3-SHGS-A2 - M3x3mm Socket Head Grub Screw
    • 2 x M3-10-SHCS-A2 - M3x10mm Socket Head Cap Screw
    • 4 x M2.5-6-SHCS-A2 - M2.5x6mm Socket Head Cap Screw
    • 5 x M3-8-SHCSS-A2 - M3x8mm Socket Head Countersunk Screw
    • 6 x M3-16-SHCS-A2 - M3x16mm Socket Head Cap Screw
    • 7 x M3-6-BHCS-A2 - M3x6mm Button Head Cap Screw
    Some assumptions which I am still trying to sort out.
    • I assume A2 is 304 Stainless Steel. Not sure what BO is? I already have the receiver grub screw anyway though.
    • The M3x3mm grub screws are I assume for the cable guide to secure the metal strip and at the other end on the dock.
    • I guess the 2 M3x10mm screws are to fix the receiver to its support.
    • The 4 M2.5x6mm are obviously for the PCF.
    • The 5 M3x8mm countersunk ones are I assume those for the tool plate since that is the only countersunk location.
    • I assume the 6x16mm screws, are four to the cable guide on top and the other two for the dock.
    • The 7 M3x6mm I assume are those that go into the Hemera stepper mounting slots.
     
    #4 Paul Arden, Apr 21, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2020
  5. Greg Holloway

    Greg Holloway Administrator
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  6. Paul Arden

    Paul Arden Well-Known Member

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    Oh I hadn't realised there was an assembly guide. Would be great to add that link to the Thingiverse page.

    I'm upgrading from V6 tools with 4 stock Hermera so I'll have to find some of my own fasteners but the guide is exactly what I was looking for.
     
  7. dc42

    dc42 Well-Known Member

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    I used small self-tapping screws instead. But I have previously found that M2.5 screws will self-tap into PLA if you drill the holes out with a 2.3mm drill first.
     
  8. Paul Arden

    Paul Arden Well-Known Member

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    Funny you should say that, I already broke a few parts before going for drill then tab approach which definitely worked a lot better. I used a 2mm drill but might step that up a bit, particularly for the fan shroud which can't be printed in an alignment that would gives the holes more strength.

    For the top PCF fan bracket I had originally printed it in the wrong orientation, so the layers were parallel with the holes which is obviously no good, after flipping it so the holes were perpendicular to the lines it was much stronger for the tapping. Though all of my parts are printed in ASA as well so a bit easier to drill and tap in the first place.

    Guessing I will have to reprint a few parts I am not as careful as I should be with but that's the great thing about 3D printing, I can just make more!
     
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