Question about the Plywood vs Acrylic

Discussion in 'BigBox General Chat' started by xoration, Jun 28, 2016.

  1. xoration

    xoration Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2016
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    I am thinking about getting a Bigbox still a bit undecided. But I have a question about the case. I heared that there are quite a few who don't like the acrylic case at it seems to be prone to breaking and cracks during assembly.

    Is this still the case or has there been changed anything? Also regarding to the plywood is the plywood stiff enought to not allow any warping?

    Not sure if this is a problem but I would assume acryclic is stiffer.
     
  2. theTroll527

    theTroll527 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2015
    Messages:
    100
    Likes Received:
    17
    I haven't had any problems with breaking or cracks during assembly. You just have to understand it is not steal or aluminum so you can't crank the screws down really tight.
     
  3. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2016
    Messages:
    323
    Likes Received:
    43
    My Plywood BB works great, and print results are good but I cannot compare to acrylic.
     
  4. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2016
    Messages:
    192
    Likes Received:
    26
    No problems assembling the acrylic... thanks to Tom S. and other before me stressing the point that hand tight then a quarter more... and fasten from the middle and last the outer where the acrylic is thin.

    If you paint the plywood in resin (same as the one used when applying fibreglass) you get the best of two worlds... both sides...

    I do that when I build loudspeakers and RC planes (fuel compartment). Works great to make it airtight and fuel resistant). And makes it stiff and strong.
     
  5. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2016
    Messages:
    323
    Likes Received:
    43
    paint plywood with resin... sounds interesting... I may try it :) but I did not noticed any down side with plywood yet, but I can not compare to acrylic
     
  6. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    I have the acrylic kit and it is very good and yes you can crack it if you are over exuberant with the tightening of the screws but the finish looks great. Plywood is also very good provided you seal it with a good polyurethane varnish to protect it from humidity and it is cheaper and easier to hack if that is your intention. I have performed a lumpectomy on the top bracket to make space for the hybrid dual without any difficulty.
     
  7. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2016
    Messages:
    192
    Likes Received:
    26
    Polyurethane is good... And the biggest gain is getting the movement out that might happen due to season changes.

    I use resin since I need the strength, stiffness and airtightness... but do not over do it.

    The part that is sucked into the wood gives the most for strength and stiffness. I do not see any need for airtight enclosure...

    All my speakers sound better with this... especially the prototypes in OSB or particleboard.... but I have only build one 3D printer and that is in acrylic...
     
  8. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2015
    Messages:
    969
    Likes Received:
    389
    I have the acrylic and really didn't have problems (at least with cracking). A couple of tips, don't pound the inserts in with a hammer, but slowly tighten them into place with a screw. and absolutely crazy-glue the nut traps together (or buy a large bottle of good single malt) so that assembly is way easier. It is super rigid, and easy to work with.
     
  9. xoration

    xoration Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2016
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    First off thanks for the replies and the advice. My concerns have been dispelled a little bit. And I think I will opt for the acrylic case then. I would have resin at home as I am also a RC pilot but I think the acrylic looks way nicer and is probably more rigid
     
  10. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2016
    Messages:
    192
    Likes Received:
    26
    My reasoning exactly.
    Listen to all advice here, do not assume you know unless one hundred percent certain and all will be fine...

    And have enough self-confidence to ask... always assume that if you do not understand there is at least one more who need the answer but do not dare to ask...
     
  11. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Messages:
    918
    Likes Received:
    183
    I would be happy to have a wood box properly painted/sealed.

    And I like Tom Sanladerer's argument that it's at the top of the *value* (bang for buck) proposition.

    But I know it would drive me nuts having to give it two coats of polyurethane and waiting for them to dry.

    Though with hindsight the build does tend to stretch over a few days (unless you go nuts) and so it should be possible to do the paint job without holding things up much.

    But how do you paint the sides and edges of each piece and lean them against the wall and.... ?? arghhh.. so many questions!
     
  12. Hans C.

    Hans C. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2015
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    43
    It took me a day and a half to slap four coats of polyurethane on all the wood parts--two spray coats to get into the edges and all those cutouts, then two additional wipe-on coats for all the flat surfaces. It would have gone quicker if the weather had cooperated, but it didn't: clouds and showers all that weekend.

    There's no way you could apply any sort of finish to a pre-assembled BigBox unless you were willing to strip it down to the kit state. I doubt if anyone has or ever will.

    The advantage for me, besides the fact that I'm a woodworker with a fairly well-equipped shop (meaning I can modify the frame if I see the need, e.g. to brace it or add sound damping, etc.), is that I could bang those barbs in and crank those frame screws as tight as I pleased. No worries about cracking a panel.

    But I have to admit, those acrylic BigBoxes sure do look purty.
     
  13. Jasons_BigBox

    Jasons_BigBox Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2016
    Messages:
    232
    Likes Received:
    69
    More R/C pilots! (Me too)

    How many are on here? There does appear to be a good link between the hobbies.
     
  14. GrodanB

    GrodanB Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2016
    Messages:
    192
    Likes Received:
    26
    You mean the need to fabricate replacement parts...

    And the possibility that the 3d printer offers to fill that need...
     
  15. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2016
    Messages:
    323
    Likes Received:
    43
    I'm more the lowlevel R/C Pilot... my cars have no wings and my quadro coperts.... I should finish them one day :D
     
    Stian Indal Haugseth likes this.
  16. RTBiscuit

    RTBiscuit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2016
    Messages:
    62
    Likes Received:
    5
    I'm contemplating using wood dyes first before sealing with polyurethane to add colour, or sealing with epoxy and then spray painting the parts, but not seen pictures of either finish to make my mind up on the best course of action.

    My only concern is that any extra paint layer etc may make assembly harder, and also covering the text to know where things go, making assembly harder.
     
  17. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2014
    Messages:
    957
    Likes Received:
    166
    Have a look at Richrap's BB on G+ as he has varnished and decorated it. I am sure he will impart information on the process if you ask. Unfortunately, Richard does not use this forum.
     
  18. RTBiscuit

    RTBiscuit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2016
    Messages:
    62
    Likes Received:
    5
    Thanks, I just had a look, I like what he did with the lamination of art work/drawings onto the wood. I think I may well go down the coloured stain route. We use vibrant wood dyes at work, just need to decide on a colour combination.
     
  19. Hans C.

    Hans C. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2015
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    43
    I think the design has enough clearance that it would take a LOT of finish to interfere with assembly and/or fit. Unless you had drools & blobs of hardened finish (I'm thinking epoxy, which loves to drool, and sets rock-hard), the nut trap and & screw combination should suck everything up tight and to spec.

    As for dyeing the wood beforehand, I was tempted since plain birch is...well, plain; but although I enjoy working wood, I hate finishing it. So I took the lazy/easy way and just slapped on polyurethane, making sure I hit all the edge grain at least twice. There's a lot of edge grain on a BigBox.
     
  20. RTBiscuit

    RTBiscuit Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2016
    Messages:
    62
    Likes Received:
    5
    The stuff we use is mixed with water and can be applied by brush or sponge and soaks in, so shouldn't need finishing, then just slap the PU varnish on the top.
     

Share This Page