IDEAS Quick Release bed retention

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by W1EBR.Gene, Nov 4, 2016.

  1. W1EBR.Gene

    W1EBR.Gene Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone seen any ideas for mods which would allow for quick bed glass removal / replacement? I don't really like spraying hairspray on the glass inside the machine and I am coming to hate the clips.
     
  2. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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  3. W1EBR.Gene

    W1EBR.Gene Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. I wound up gluing a sheet of thin plastic cutting board to the underside of the heat pad so that the cork wound not get any more destroyed than it was from the metal clips. That protected the bottom of the heat pad.

    I would like a way to easily swap the glass bed.
     
  4. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    My cork is beginning to look worn ...
     
  5. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    I put some kapton there because the clips are not a friend of my cork sheet at all ...
     
  6. dc42

    dc42 Well-Known Member

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  7. W1EBR.Gene

    W1EBR.Gene Well-Known Member

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    What I have been thinking of is a kind of sandwich consisting of a frame that goes under the PCB and stiffens it and a frame that goes over the glass and hold it down securely. It would be squeezed together with leaf springs tensioned by a cam mechanism and operated with a single lever (I wish I was a mechanical engineer :) ).
     
  8. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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  9. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Looks like an aluminium bed under the glass instead of cork under pcb. Would definitely allow for a small clip.
     
  10. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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  11. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Would need to be in PC at a bare minimum just to withstand the heat of the bed. Yeah metal probably makes more sense. I see what you mean now, seeing the model. So it pivots, in the hole, around the vertical metal corner posts. Interesting.
     
  12. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    ...pivots... that's the term :)
     
  13. Jasons_BigBox

    Jasons_BigBox Well-Known Member

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    I like the idea but I'm not sure it would work in the same way on the BigBox. We screw the PCB heating board to the hex pillars. If you added the clamp between the pillar and the bed you'd probably turn the pillar and mess up your levelling.

    You're probably going to run MBL after taking the glass off anyway but messing with the screws and pillars will mess up the 'mechanical level' too.
     
    mike01hu likes this.
  14. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    I agree with the bed post rotating you will need releveling...
    btw I "solved" this issue by a clever3d PEI Alu plate :)
    It's really nice, finally no PLA wraping, no UHU glue and stuff yeah :D
     
  15. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I keep meaning to order but haven't got around to it. I have zero PLA warping at 55 bed, 215 first layer, onto UHU+Hairspray. Seems both together create a really great adhesion layer that leaves a nice matte bottom finish. Also the UHU is easy to remove, the Hairspray isn't, but because it's ontop of the UHU, I'm hoping it will be. Last big thing I printed was 220 by 120 base and zero warp.

    For ABS and PET I prefer to print into Kapton at present, but applying it is a total pain and I think the PEI plate would be a great way to fix that pain.

    Which color plate did you go for?
     
  16. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    I've got the red one to match my BB but the black would be better for homing with the IR sensor. I have painted a small black square at the home position to ensure consistent homing. I have great results with Edge, CF20 and PLA using Alex's profiles.
     
  17. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

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    I have some understanding issues with with the set bed temp and the real surface temp on the glass.
    It's like up to 20°C diff so set it to 60 and measure 41 with the 2nd extruder pt100 clamped to the bed from.

    With the black PEI plate, because black is cool :) and better for the IR. Now the Temp diff is only 9°C.
    So still a Diff but smaller...

    The Question is Are those temps mentioned all around the slicer settings aka not the actual surface temperature?

    The clamp... how about a spring around the bed mount only to hold the clamp up?
     
  18. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Barring some jiggery pokery few of us bother with, the temperature in the slicer is the thermistor/PT100/thermocouple measured temperature and the build surface is somewhat cooler. How much cooler is a function of bed material and thickness, ambient temperature and ventilation.
     
  19. lance

    lance Well-Known Member

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    i hated the clips the bigbox came with right at the getgo so i just took them off and used these little clips from walmart, you can get like 20 of them for a couple dollars. the hotend never hits them and i only use 2 on the front and 2 on the back so they pop off and on super easy.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. W1EBR.Gene

    W1EBR.Gene Well-Known Member

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    I looked at that and it looks nice, but it is 43 Euro to ship it to me. Is shipping from Germany that expensive?
     

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