SOLVED Removing the BB Base After Build Wiring is Complete?

Discussion in 'Build Help' started by Old_Tafr, Mar 22, 2016.

  1. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2016
    Messages:
    560
    Likes Received:
    75
    It looks like I will have to remove the base after just completing the wiring and testing the display and motor drivers voltages on the Rumba.

    I suspect that having completed the wiring it will be difficult if not impossible to drop the base, and the weight of the power supply would tug at all the wires if I did try this.

    Making the wires longer so that the base could be dropped would not see difficult to do but this would have to be part of the initial design. Not routing the four groups of wires that are in sleeves through a support would also help. Plus not routing wires under the Rumba would help too.

    Before I redesign the wheel, (maybe with a chocolate block containing all connections) has anyone an alternative approach to after build maintenance that involves removing the base without disconnecting all the wires?
     
  2. Kanedias

    Kanedias Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2015
    Messages:
    406
    Likes Received:
    124
    Routing through a support won't be an issue, the supports stay fixed to the underside of the bed when you remove the bottom. I would have preferred to have the rumba attached to the underside as well with the existing hatch to provide access to the top face of it. That might be a mod worth doing. But then, how often should you need to get at anything else in the base?
     
  3. Stefan

    Stefan Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2016
    Messages:
    323
    Likes Received:
    43
    When I have to open it again did it like this:
    1st unscrew the Rumba from it's supports (4 silver screws) so the Rumba is floating.
    2nd use some electrical solid copper wire to hold the base at an angle, make sure urs SD card is removed from the PI if you have one.

    3rd fix stuff and close.
     
  4. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2016
    Messages:
    560
    Likes Received:
    75
    Believe me the base is a pain to remove and refit. As the four groups of wires go through the strut attached to the underside of the bed this is still a problem when wires are attached to the Rumba as it's yet another thing to pull tight if you are not too careful.

    Although the base should not need to be removed, a few simple changes would make the exercise a lot easier.

    One such change would be not using nut traps to secure the struts, or by using a nut trap that clipped into place in the strut, which would be preferable to using tape....... which will detach when heat from the bed dries it out....... and then will get stuck in a fan.
     
  5. Sgllama

    Sgllama Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2015
    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    4
    In lieu of a nut trap that clips into place, instead of using tape you could use a drop of superglue to hold the nut trap in the support - obviously you have to apply the glue with the support screwed into place, to get the alignment correct, but if you've got the base off or haven't got to the point of attaching it yet...
     
  6. Dr Jeep

    Dr Jeep Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2015
    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    169
    When I get mine and it's all nicely dialled in this is on the list of things to look at.

    For a hackable printer I think the electronics access isn't quite good enough. I think I am going to add some extra straightening to the Z axis motor supports (I am thinking bridges connecting that area of the acrylic to the base) and then I intend to get new base and sub base parts made. with a bigger access door and I'll reposition all the electronics I can within that area.

    The current design is sound, and I understand they limited the size of the access door due to strength concerns. It's all good if you don't need frequent access,but some of the things I intend to do will.
     
    Old_Tafr likes this.
  7. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2015
    Messages:
    296
    Likes Received:
    182
    Old_Tafr, assuming you have access to a working printer, these clips I designed should do what you want.

    http
    s://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/simple-retainer-for-nut-traps.882/

    IMG_1261.JPG
     
    Miasmictruth and Old_Tafr like this.
  8. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2016
    Messages:
    560
    Likes Received:
    75
    YES to a bigger access door, what we have is fine for a first pass, plus as the door gets bigger the rigidity of the upper support or whatever they call it gets less especially at the front. Better access to the support through which the wiring passes would be good too.

    It would be really helpful if the (Rumba) control panel just clipped in and out, this would make the wiring a LOT easier too.

    As the BB is designed to be hackable then all these things are possible but I'm not sure how I get an accurately cut acrylic lower support made, and refitting would be a pain.
     
  9. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2016
    Messages:
    560
    Likes Received:
    75
    Perfect !! Unfortunately my previous project stalled through lack of any decent instructions on building, so I will have to wait, and most of the construction on the BB is finished, but a great idea.
     
  10. Dr Jeep

    Dr Jeep Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2015
    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    169
    Those look great, I just knocked out 20 of them on my old printer before I forget.
     

Share This Page