Hey, so I am removing my volcano and going back to standard duals. I have issues with the small black screws that hold the heater cartridge in place, I couldn't get the left print head one loose originally so mounted my volcano in the right. Now time to swap back and same issue! Any hints or tips? Hopefully with titan if it comes with connectors on the heater block I am just going to buy some extras and not worry about moving this around.
Screw is stuck? Use WD40 and leave for as long as your patience allows Then use a screw extractor. Drilling it out is last resort as the screw is harder than the aluminum block. You would probably need a drill press. Think I'll just order an extra set of heater cartridges at once! And an extra PT100. And connectors to crimp on to have it all changeable.
How are you holding the Al block whist you try and unscrew the black screw? If you don't want to cut the wires (and then you could hold it in a vice mounted on a bench) then try one of these small but strong vices that screw onto the edge of a table or desk. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-18...8&qid=1462191160&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+vice Then does your Allen key fit really well? If not buy another. Make sure the hole for the Allen key is clear of debris and fits as tightly as possible......... don't use one of these ball-end type Allen keys it is more likely to slip. Try one of the "T" handled Allen keys (usually with separate bits) rather than the "L" shaped ones, you can apply more even force which may just make the difference...again Al in the vice helps here. Try applying heat......using the inbuilt heater ! maybe the Al will heat up just enough to free the screw. Apply some force to the screw whilst it's heating up, you may just feel it release if you have applied sufficient tension. Burnt fingers are a problem here Once in a vice or held very securely try hitting the screw with a small hammer or better still use a small punch with a flat end. A light tap will do to just jar the threads! At worst use pipe grips (adjusted correctly for the width of the Al block) to hold it very securely whilst you apply pressure with an Allen key...... the vice approach is FAR preferable to this.
Thanks guys, tried all the Allen keys I have most seem to fit well but just spin after a while of pressure and trying to turn it. I don't have any vices or drills or anything like that so I think it might be time to just cut the cables and see where I can clamp this down and go to town on it. Also currently using pliers to hold block in place and it's now looking a little worse for wear....
Go get yourself a screw extractor set, I had that happen, I used the smaller screw extractor and it stripped it more and made it a nice smooth cone shape, then I was desperate and decided to use the bigger one that came with my kit, and it popped it right out. I now have a box of extra grub screws and those screws for when I strip them again.
I may just do that, in the end I cut the cables on the heater block so I could at least get printing again, I don't think I'll be swapping out for volcano again unless I also get spare sensor and heater block and make all the cables connectors it's too much of a faff
Yeah that is what I did, I have four heater blocks, four heaters and four sensors. FYI, the sensors that came with the BigBox have 3 wires, and the ones they are sending out now have a connector on them and are only two wires. The original BigBox sensors have 2 red and one clear, when rewires make sure the two red ones are connected together and connected to one wire and the clear is connected to the other wire going to the RUMBA. And they are very tiny.
I had the same issue with that crappy screw. What I found on the interweb was to use a Dremel across the screw head and then remove it with a flat head screw driver. I haven't attempted using my Volcano cause of this issue. Awaiting my summer vacation to fix the screw issue, replace my bearings with the Misumi bearings I have, add the Astrosyn damper to the y-axis stepper motor, and hopefully the Titan install.
Can someone recommend a high quality screw to replace it with cause I surely won't be putting another one like that back in once I have removed it... I've read so many people with the same issue in this forum.
You might want to try an anti-seize compound. It is essentially the opposite of thread-lock. I use it one some of the screws for my miter gauge and a few other things around my shop where I want the screws to be secure, but that I also want them to come out again. If I can find the bottle I will take a picture of it so you can see the brand name. I could not find the tube, but this is it.
Easy method to get it out is to dremel a flat into the heat and use a flathead screwdriver. The screws are grade 8 steel if memory serves, they aren't bad quality. If the allen key is not the right size or is not fully bottomed out before applying torque, stripping is possible. You could use socket head cap screws instead of button head cap screws to get a little deeper pocket for the allen key if you like.
Tried the dremel option... I think if anything I made it worse. At this rate I may just buy a new heater cartridge and forget about this block. Also I have mangled the block using pliers and everything else on it....
Did you try the screw extractor approach? if the hex hole is totally knackered then you need to drill a small hole (not too deep ) for the extractor to grip in.
Nope, means I need to buy a drill! I had a dremel to hand, or rather a neighbour did. Seen the prices of heater cartridge I am just going to buy another one and this block can keep this one forever more... Thanks for all your help