replaced IR sensor with limit switch

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by lance, Oct 2, 2016.

  1. lance

    lance Well-Known Member

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    so the bigbox was my first experience with IR bed sensors, all the other printers ive used have had limit switches. I cant believe all the headaches and crap i had to deal with trying to get the IR sensor to be reliable and not just absolutely suck at its job.

    so i unplugged it and took it off, plugged the connector into a limit switch and just super glued it to the side of the machine, with a screw slotted into a little printed mount to give it adjustability. now the machine is super reliable and the first layers are always just perfect. plus it removes clutter from the hotend giving it a cleaner minimalist look (on that note, cant wait to get a thermal sock for my volcano and take the part cooling fan off the machine for even less clutter on the hotend).

    ill probably end up moving the mount to the back of the machine, just to get rid of all the extra cables running along the side of the machine for the limit switch.
     

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  2. Paul Seccombe

    Paul Seccombe Well-Known Member

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    I have to admit that I have come to the same conclusion. I have ordered some small limit switches and have some ideas of how to install one. Glad you have found it works well - means it is worth the effort.
     
  3. 3DogModeling

    3DogModeling Active Member

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    so I've seen multiple posts about issues with the IR sensor and I have had zero issues. Once I got the bed level and the Z-height adjusted I haven't had any issues. What is the major gripe with this component?
     
  4. Paul Seccombe

    Paul Seccombe Well-Known Member

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    @3DogModeling the issue that people seem to have with the IR sensor is the inconsistency with changes in the bed surface. When I talked to @Greg Holloway at TCT last week even he said they were moving their IR sensors on the print farm to be under the bed where the surface was more consistent.

    Having said that, I have just fitted a microswitch for the z and all appeared well.......until I cycled the power and the height was off again. I had read somewhere (sorry can't remember who said it) that they thought the "Store memory" settings weren't working in @Alex9779 's 1.1 RC6 firmware but have to admit I had forgotten to check myself soI re-leveled (still with the microswitch) then sent a M500 command via Octoprint, recycled the power and all appear well.

    So in summary, it looks like my issues may have been associated with a failing in the "store memory" function in the firmware I was using, but as so many people have reported issues with the IR sensor I think I will stick with the microswitch for the time being. I haven't removed the IR sensor so it is just a 5 second job to switch back to it.
     
  5. fpex

    fpex Well-Known Member

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    If you move the IR sensor away from the head, it has no reaso. Not to be a switch. Actually a switch is more reliable. I am still on IR, but he consistencies are there.
     
  6. 3DogModeling

    3DogModeling Active Member

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    Thanks for filling me in Paul. This isn't my first 3D printer and my other is a Rostock Max V2 from SeeMe CNC. I've gotten use to doing the bed leveling chores and calibrating while the machine is at temp and that seems to be the biggest issue for those that have been having issues.

    anyways thanks again for filling me in!
     
  7. Jack J

    Jack J Member

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    i moved my ir sensorh off the head (when it got snapped off due to the filament jamming) and glued it to the bed upside down facing the underside of the frame so the bed is level every time ( i had issues with the ir not leveling the same every time im guessing because of the glass)
     

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