hello! just started with s3d and i think it would be really helpful if someone could detail a getting started guide for the bigbox im having some strange behavior, such as prints centering to the left of the middle of the build plate ( dimensions set to 260x200x300) and i am currently printing a vase at 200% with the bigbox dual fff settings because it was going incredibly slow and it seems like it could even go a bit quicker than what i have it at now so far im tempted to go back to repetier host because i at least know where everything goes start and end g code would also be appreciated ive also noticed that it always heats my second extruder even when not being used thanks!
You stole my post !! lol Being new to 3D printing and slicers, s3d is my one and only experience to date. There is lots info to get you going info published by s3d but it does not provide enough help and you need to either add the dual profile (in my case) and/or use the example config posted elsewhere for the single/dual. But there does not seem to be a useful guide to getting started. I ended up with the hot end being set to 190, fine ! but the bed not set. When I did sort of figure this out I ended up with the bed set correctly at 60 but not the hot end at anything. Also I needed to set a speed profile for the print cooling fans, those at the side. Each time this means testing by making a print, interesting but also time consuming and tedious. The preview helps and is good but not good enough to really see what happens as it does not show the actual tool path until the print itself starts. A guide needs to point out what is set in s3d and what in OctoPrint as it's possible to set in both, lots of things like volume size , nozzle offset, etc. I guess s3d would be better as then it's all in the gcode file. Try the s3d forum (if you had any hair to start with then prepare for premature baldness ) This forum layout is cool, theirs is early stone age. There are some good s3d Youtube videos but I have not found one on the initial config you need. Look elsewhere if I don't post it, for the guinea pig request on this forum for a people to test a experimental BB profile for s3d. You can always turn the extruder and bed temp on or off via the front panel just as Octoprint starts , this works ok and is what I did initially when I saw the print start but the bed at ambient. Make sure you set the print cooling fans the correct height too, just (2 to 3mm) above the nozzle height.
I feel your pain. This sort of basic guide to slicing - I don't know that it's been done. And then s3d is an uber-slicer with a zillion options. Not sure what to suggest....?? Except immersing yourselves in everything you can find - and practicing - until you see the light in the distance...
There are some good videos online that can help. If you go through and read the tool tips it can give you a lot of insight on what you can tweak too. If you haven't found this, it's a good general start point for print quality issues http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
What you set in OctoPrint is only taken into account if you actually do something or generate gcode from OctoPrint. Yeah you could upload an STL to OctoPrint. OP included Cura as slicing engine. And this slicer then need the base settings you set in the printer profile. If you just use OctoPrint as a host to do some generic controls when doing maintenance like moving the bed or the head or extruder a bit to clean the nozzle and change filaments then those settings are not of any interest. Well maybe the direction settings of the axis should be right so the button move the head and bed to the directions you expect. If you just upload a gcode file then OP does nothing in addition. All what the printer does is in that code. And that's what it is all about: everything the printer should do is in the code file! So if you don't have home or level command (for auto level) in the file then you have to that manually before every print. By the LCD or with a command from OctoPrint. At least every time you moved the head manually so the machine does not know where it really is anymore... Imagine the printer and the printers firmware just as an executor. It does nothing on its own most of the time. The firmware just sets some limits like the max X and max Y and prevents you from executing commands that would be beyond those limits. Well with our dock this is not fully true, you can crash the head in the back outside dock location, but that's a limitation of those limits the firmware is able to understand. For the firmware the build volume is always a cube for a cartesian printer and you define only that cube and the firmware limits the move inside this dude. The BigBox has a cubic build area but the dock is outside. This cannot be covered currently. To come back to the point: the printer does only what you tell him to do! Nothing more, nothing less. So you can do a manual based usage like homing manually before every print, or docking after a print. Or you could include all that stuff in your start and end scripts, like I did in the profile for the Dual I published on Github.
for me, repetier host was pretty straight forward and made sense. with s3d i struggled to even find where the g code went if someone could just post a good start and end code that would be a good basis to tweak for personal preference, that would be very helpfull for us less experienced with my solidoodle it had a basic start code and as i learned what i wanted to get out of it i started experimenting and changing things to my liking i apologize if that has already been covered in another post, i just havent found it yet off topic, what is "fr" on the lcd? and what is the purpose of using sd cards?
Feedrate, a general speed multiplier for all moves of the printer. You are not bound to a PC that could crash or hang or on the connection from the PC to the printer. It is more fail safe especially for long prints.
https://github.com/Alex9779/BigBox-Settings/raw/master/Dual/Simplify3D/BigBox Dual.fff Oh I did not ask if you have a Pro or Dual. If you just omit all the second extruder stuff from the script or use "Extruder 0 only" from the dropdown it should work for the Pro too.
i have a dual awesome i will try that out! haha i should have guessed thats what fr was its just frusterating because 3dbenchy from the sd came out great and now im having nothing but issues like lines in my first layer are coming out squiggly but then the second layer looks pretty smooth and not squiggly like its the z offset, but like its vibrating back and forth in any case, ill try that other fff file and maybe loosen up my y axis belts, they may be a bit taught
I have a dual 3dbenchy came out fine very first print BUT it was on the SD card and printed direct from there, which is the difference. I printed a couple of small things next, all came out fine, this was then using s3d and PP, THEN then things went wrong, this was down to fans not low enough and possibly too much fan speed too soon so I set a few layers with little or no fan speed then slowly built it up. The combination of lower fans so they don't cool the nozzle and less speed did the trick. Why the initial prints worked without this I don't know. I had some slight issues with the first layers not sticking but making sure nozzle and bed were up to temp and cleaning the bed with a dry scouring pad which is like scotchbright worked, having a raft probably helped too. There should also be a setting where the first layer or two is printed more slowly, and you could also increase the temp slightly for the first layer or two to make the plastic more sticky. I found that the belts were tight enough if they did quite meet when squeezed between finger and thumb, subjective I know.
@Alex9779 found a bug in your S3D pre-script (I think). Was trying out the FFF above and the machine docks and just waits forever in heating (and actually shut off the left extruder). So looked at the script and you have: Code: ;heat extruder 0 T0 ; select extruder 0 M109 S[extruder1_temperature] ; set extruder 0 temperature and wait instead of: Code: ;heat extruder 0 T0 ; select extruder 0 M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set extruder 0 temperature and wait You select E0 but wait for Temp1, which was a problem since I had no temp set for 1...
@Henry Feldmann BTW if you want to disable left or right just use the dropdown menu and select only left or only right... Script are set accordingly, so no tool change script and the start and end script are for one tool only too. Remember to set the tool offset when printing with two or only right extruder!
Just pointing out (for those of us old enough to remember when we got text email on our Vax 11-785) how amazing it is that I find a bug in a script here in Boston while trying to 3D print, post it on a forum in the UK and with in about 10 minutes the author of the code posts the fix in Germany!
@Alex9779 is there some reason it might be trying to print with a weird Z-Offset. It's essentially printing about 4mm above the bed.
@Henry Feldmann ummm I don't know... There's no offset in the profile... Level your bed? Save after levelling?
Hehe yeah I know what you mean, weird times today... Even though I do not know a "Vax 11-785" I grew up with the Internet starting with a 28.8 modem and "Mailboxes" you dial in with a 1:5 share ratio and stuff...
Ha, when I went to university I had a 1200 baud US_Robotics modem, hooked up to my Mac SE. The Vax 11-785 was DEC's big mini computer.
