IN DEVELOPMENT SETTINGS Clever3D PEI coated aluminum bed

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Ephemeris, Jun 20, 2016.

  1. AndyVirus

    AndyVirus Well-Known Member

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    MatX
    Bed 135 dropping to 130 at layer 2
    Extrude at 160, dropping to 150 at layer 2
    180mmps in S3D, First Layer 12% speed
    0.4mm volcano nozzle, 0.25 layer hight, first layer width 100%, first layer hight 100%

    Sticks nice, bit of curling at the corners, might play with temp a bit more to combat that.
     
  2. Mark Curry

    Mark Curry Well-Known Member

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    I am having issues removing TitanX (Form Futura) from PEI. Tried putting it in freezer, but no joy any suggestions?
     
  3. EASI3D

    EASI3D Well-Known Member

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    It usually pops off when the plate cools, unless you have a really small nozzle offset, I use between 0.18-0.25(measured with feeler gauge) which works fine
     
  4. Mark Curry

    Mark Curry Well-Known Member

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    Thanks what bed temp r u using?
     
  5. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    Testing some PC-ABS I actually got a sample of when I originally got the BigBox 1.0 KS (late number).

    I had to put a cotton rag over the bed to reach 130C but now it gradually cools down to 124C as it can not maintain 130C. Air temp in room is about 21C.

    Testing a small tower print now at 120C to see if it sticks well enough. 110C was not enough.
     
  6. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Interesting! I can get an indicated temperature of 135C but your PCB bed may have less warp so the aluminum is actually hotter than mine but the indicated temperature is lower because of it
     
  7. Stian Indal Haugseth

    Stian Indal Haugseth Well-Known Member

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    I have a spring underneath the cork to push the PCB against the alu bed.

    But 120C was not enough. It came of pretty easily. I have read that 140C is not uncommon for PC-ABS but not found much on PEI.

    One day I will custom order a 325 x 225 alu bed and get a silicone heater for 230VAC. But with Clever3Ds prices I will have to wait a bit.
     
  8. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    ColorFabb XT-CF20
    Bed 80°C (Clever3D PEI Clipfix Black)
    First Layer 265°C
    Main Temp 260°C

    Requires cooldown to room temperature all the way and then some effort to get the parts off the bed but works beautifully.
     
    #88 mhe, Mar 8, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2018
  9. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    @mhe, could you add your bed type and any bed coating to that report please?
     
  10. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    Done, thanks for the heads up, I have grown so used to the PEI bed by now that I take it for granted. Awesome thing.
     
  11. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Oh, that's good to know. I've fancied trying that stuff for a while. Was hoping that was the bed you had :)
     
    mhe likes this.
  12. Kyle Schwab

    Kyle Schwab Member

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  13. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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  14. Winand

    Winand Member

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    I emailed the supplier, making it in black was too much effort and they do not plan on restocking that option. So you are limited to just the "plain" aluminium.
     
  15. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    I still have one of the original silvery looking ones. I've used it continuously for almost two years nd it works well with the IR sensor.
     
  16. jfb

    jfb Well-Known Member

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    I've also been using a silvery one with no problems. The IR sensor just works.
     
  17. Ephemeris

    Ephemeris Well-Known Member

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    Just a quick tangential note about printing colorFabb HT. I was printing my 'final' version of the mirrored Titan dual carriage and I had problems with warping. It really needs to not warp since the X-bearings clamp to it and they must remain parallel. I tried adding Mickey Mouse ears (2 cm single layer discs) to the corners to help hold the print down but warping was still a problem.

    As a last resort I went to using a high skirt. Instead of a normal single layer high skirt, I had Simplify3D make the skirt 20 cm tall (100 layers). This wraps the print in a cocoon that traps hot air between the print and the skirt. I also kept the bed at a very high temperature (132C) for the whole print to keep the print stuck and flexible for as long as possible.

    The end result was a dead flat piece when it cooled down and I released it from the bed.

    Here's what it looked like with the skirt still in place after it finished printing.

    Eph Hi-Skirt 1.jpg

    Here's a picture with the skirt moved to the side

    Eph Hi-Skirt 2.jpg

    Seems like a good trick to have in reserve for a problematic print that has to lay flat.
     
  18. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    Pretty amazing. And a great invention!

    I've tried thinking quite a bit what it means if the skirt is 5mm, 10mm, 15mm... from the part in terms of what the "trapped" air is doing versus what it might otherwise be doing. Whether in a still room or whether there's a "breeze".

    Quite confused but beginning to think the greatest impact might be vis-a-vis the part cooling fan. Were you using one?

    Making mistakes with PLA formed the impression that the cooling fan is a mixed blessing. On the one hand if you don't use it the PLA bananas more. I think that's because you end up laying down very long soft fibres which, when they contract, add up to a single enormous contraction (like a muscle fibre, rather than a line of plastic that is sort of laid down already partly contracted/cooled/rigidified). On the other hand when you use a parts fan you are definitely cooling the lower layers of the part down more than they otherwise would be (as they bathe in a convection flow of hot air rising from the bed). Perhaps it's on that latter point that the skirt helped here? Or maybe there was no fan?
     
  19. orcinus

    orcinus Well-Known Member

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    Just got mine.

    I honestly don't get what the fuss is about.
    It's slightly less flat than the glass plate, you can't see the coordinates anymore (useful for debugging), you keep having to worry not to gouge it, PLA doesn't stick to it at 60 deg C at all (yes, i've waited, yes, i've cleaned it), and it takes way longer to heat up.
     
  20. orcinus

    orcinus Well-Known Member

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    Oh, BTW, you can, indeed, measure the temp with an IR thermometer - you just need to adjust the E factor.
    In fact, measuring with it, i've found about the only advantage it has over glass - the temperature is super-even, within +-0.25 deg C across the surface.
     

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