Silicone brush nozzle cleaner

Discussion in 'Tool heads & ToolChanger' started by blarbles, Aug 25, 2019.

  1. blarbles

    blarbles Well-Known Member

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    I tried the silicone brush mod and it seems to work. I haven't had any filament strings get past the brush so far.

    Bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HDY86DN/

    Says it handles up to 600F / 315c. Super easy to cut - the whole thing is silicone except the metal rod for the handle but it starts above where I cut it so I just sliced through with an razor. I cut down the bristles which made them stiffer (yes, it was initially installed on the wrong side).

    silicone.jpg
     
  2. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    Lovely, after the brass brush already killed the coating of the nozzle X and filament sticking to it like crazy, this seems like a very smart long term solution, gotta try it out, thanks for the link!
     
  3. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    mhe likes this.
  4. Rob Heinzonly

    Rob Heinzonly Well-Known Member

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    I didn't know those things existed ! How I love this forum:). Ordered two at Ebay yesterday. My ToolChanger is in the queue. Got the mail last Friday (I'm number 74).
     
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  5. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    Just be careful, these are rated to 450 Fahrenheit which is only 230ish C, might melt them if you print something a little hotter.
     
  6. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Well, it's not like we're printing on them. The hot nozzle is ramming through at super high speed. It's not going to impart much heat in that split second. 100C is the boiling point of water, my the water in my skin doesn't boil in 100C sauna.
     
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  7. orcinus

    orcinus Well-Known Member

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    On top of that, silicone does not conduct heat well.
    It takes (relative) ages for it to absorb enough heat to make a difference.
     
  8. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Brush arrived, fitted. First impressions; better than a wiper blade. But I'm also tweaking purge/prime so, it could also be something I did there.
     
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  9. Paul Arden

    Paul Arden Well-Known Member

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    For those in Australia, I picked up some from Big W (link) for $2ea or 4 for $6. These are very similar in size to the metal brush heads I have (don't worry I don't use the steel one pictured, since it is unused I am just using it for measuring). They look the same shape as those posted earlier on Amazon by @Spoon Unit just with an opaque handle so hopefully will fit once cut down.

    @Spoon Unit did you use the stock wiper part with yours?

    I'm busy printing parts while my Toolchanger is in transit.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I did use it, but I've since modified it with a pair of snippers (not very elegant) as I've been developing my purge process. Ultimately I want to get to the point where I don't feel I have to nursemaid the entire print.

    So here's how it currently looks

    [​IMG]

    The cut down brush is simply pushed in. I didn't use a grub screw as it's completely stuck in there. I'd have a hard time getting it with tools, let alone the light brush it gets. The reason the front part is removed is complicated to explain, but based on observation of what happens when in use. The prime step I have essentially works like this:

    Get tool.
    Move to a spot forward of the brush
    Extrude quickly to create some brush and get started
    Extrude slowly to approach printing state
    Wait for 6 seconds to allow the extruded plastic to cool
    Snap the extruder back as an attempt to snip the thread
    Wipe
    The wipe process is designed to try to knock any thread that doesn't get snipped, but caught in the brush away.

    Continue printing

    So, here's the actual prime routine I have at present:

    ;; move in
    G0 X-39 Y200 F50000

    ; prime
    G92 E0
    G1 E15 F450
    G1 F50
    G1 E5 F25
    G4 P6000

    ; snip attempt
    G0 E-4 F2750

    ;wipe
    G0 X-39 Y122.5 F21000
    G0 X-30 Y152.5
    G0 X-39 Y122.5
    G0 X-43 Y147.5
    G0 X-9 Y147.5 F50000

    To add to this, my purge routine is essentially now completely empty I think. I just dock and this process here deals with getting everything working again when the tool is re-collected.
     
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  11. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like we have the same brush. I used a razor to remove the handle, exposing the metal stem, then scissors to trim the bristles. Mine are left reasonably high and actually brush the bottom of the sock. Random nice result therefore is that the whole underside of the hotend looks almost unused after a print.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Another angle here of the position of the toolhead during wipe

    [​IMG]

    Looking more closely at that I almost wish I'd left them a spot higher to actually touch the main part of the sock underside.
     
  13. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    Brilliant, that looks like a big step up from the abrasive metal brushes.
     
  14. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I reckon with a hardened steel nozzle, the brass brush probably won't actually damage the nozzle, but I do wonder how messy it gets during a print with a large number of changes. I also reckon that eventually we should be able to get a prime purge that's dependable. Right now I seem to have tweaked it to the point where it's not as dependable as it was with the notes above, so I'm glad I've got that wipe style saved here.
     
  15. Andy Cohen

    Andy Cohen Well-Known Member

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    Anybody consider yet using a cloth-like material for a wipe the way the Lulzbots wipe? You can use a fiber material rated well over 250C.
     
  16. mhe

    mhe Well-Known Member

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    True, but the Nozzle X's anti-stick coating would likely be damaged. And since E3D switched away from the cool oldschool socks with the small holes, that is an issue. But then again, the metal brushes would have destroyed the sock in no time.
     
  17. wHack

    wHack Well-Known Member

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    Why is no-one who posted pics of their brush using the paperclip?
     
  18. Ben Kay

    Ben Kay Well-Known Member

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    Probably because it's not documented anywhere, unless I missed it? What's the paperclip supposed to do?

    Also, what's the point in the teardrop shape hole where the purge / prime scripts place the nozzle?

    Looks like it would suit a test-tube with a brim to hold it in place...but not found a suitable matching size....
     
  19. wHack

    wHack Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I just realized it's not in the docs, but I had seen it in pictures so knew it should be there. Funny thing is in the docs Section 07 - Fitting The Spool Holders at Step 8 Wiper Brush is a pic that shows the required parts and one of them is the paperclip but they don't tell you what to do with it.

    Anyway I looked around trying to find the pictures of it I had seen I found it in the background of several pictures in the Commissioning section but I knew I had seen better pictures so I searched around on the internet for clear pictures and found a couple at the following locations.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3744969
    https://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2019/6/13/e3d-tool-changer

    The basic idea is you fold it between the two tiny holes to make a bridge that acts as a wire to cut the extruded filament before it hits the brush.

    I was asking because I am just getting to setting up my brush and I thought people might have decided against it, but now it seems more likely they just didn't know it was supposed to be there.
     
  20. wHack

    wHack Well-Known Member

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    I know there was an older documentation for the beta machines. Does anyone know where those are located? They might have documentation of the paperclip.
     

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