Swelling ABS

Discussion in 'E3D-v6 and Lite6' started by Bo Herrmannsen, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. Bo Herrmannsen

    Bo Herrmannsen Active Member

    Dec 17, 2016
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    I'm close to going mad here :confused::mad:

    I have a e3d v6 lite and i have issues with both ABS and PLA

    First layer goes down perfect and sticks well for both materials

    But then things start to swell up so the nozzle blows in the material more and more


    • changed out the thermistor cartridge with a new one to rule out false temp readings.
    • PID tune both Hotend and Bed
    • while i changed out the thermistor cartridge i took the whole thing apart so i could check that it was still assembled correctly and things had not moved...
      • ie the bowden tube goes ALL the way and i made it stick 0.1mm( a bit less than that) out of the heatsink at the other end to make sure it would make good contact with the nozzle
      • i then screwed on the heatblock and the nozzle
      • did the hot tightning at 240 degrees and followed by the PID tune
      • i did the assembly in this order as it would be hard to tell if the bowden tube was actually all the way down if the heatblock and nozzle was allready installed
    • silicone sock fitted and a ziptie arround that to hold it all the way up, the statement that it will fit when hot is not entirely true
    • i have checked steps/mm and its spot on, if i ask for 100mm i get that
    • i have also checked flowrate, ie if i have a 0.4mm nozzle and i print a hollow cube with a single 0.4mm wall they are 0.4mm thick
    • I have "flushed" the nozzle by heating it to 245 and extruded 100mm, then carefully using a 0.4mm drill bit (normally used to drill PCB's) and poking up the first 2-3mm to make sure nozzle is not blocked... then another 100mm and poking with the drill bit again.
    • i have also many times checked that Z moves correctly, ie when i ask it to move 200mm it does in fact move that much
    • "cooked" the ABS in the oven at 50 degree's for a few hours to rule out water

    when i extrude the 100mm in free air it comes out straight down

    what could it be? i dont hear any "farts" when extruding which would suggest water in the filament

    filament currently loaded is Super Blue ABS from Devil Design, i have tried to extrude it in the range of 190 all the way up to 240

    I have white and black PLA from DD and that i extrude at 200, the swelling is Less but still there
    #1 Bo Herrmannsen, Dec 3, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2017
  2. Old_Tafr

    Old_Tafr Well-Known Member

    Mar 7, 2016
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    My Edge filament *farts* a little when I first start printing the skirt as the filament has oozed out whilst it is heating, after that "wind" isn't a problem, I call this the Vindaloo Effect.

    Most people have different settings for the first layer so that the filament is squashed down a little and sticks. Maybe you changed something in the slicer or changed the slicer you use?

    The 100 mm calibration is done in air with no "back pressure" on the nozzle. Make a design, like an ever expanding flat coil that gets larger and larger in diameter and see if it starts to *fart* at some stage.

    E3D just sent an Email about cleaning nozzles (and not using wire {and I guess drill bits} to clean nozzles). They also do some cleaning filament found on their website. Maybe change the nozzle?

    Email info...

    Lately our support team has been hearing quite often from customers faced with clogged nozzles. We have a number of tried-and-true methods for dealing with these annoyances, but above all we encourage customers to use good quality, clean filament with low diameter variance. If your spool's a bit dusty, you can always feed it through a bit of dry sponge or paper towel. Still, clogs happen to us all, so try these tips to get back up and printing as soon as possible.
    Your first approach shouldn't be to take your HotEnd apart and start prodding the parts with needles and wires - you can damage your nozzle and heatbreak so keep it as a last resort. One highly effective method is the cold pull, in which melted filament is allowed to cool inside the nozzle, conforming to its shape. When pulled out, debris is caught in the solid plastic. Our friend Tom Sanladerer has a great overview guide on the various methods which will get you back up and printing!
  3. Bo Herrmannsen

    Bo Herrmannsen Active Member

    Dec 17, 2016
    Likes Received:
    nozzle have only seen PLA and ABS and is less than a year old, i could get the precise date with some digging arround

    nozzle is not clogged but i did the drill bit method just to be sure. and as they write you can damage things, but i assume that they say this to cover a wide spectrum of users, the way i do it is to make sure the bit is clean with no dirt or metal bits on it, ie i wipe with lint free cloth and acetone

    then with the nozzle at 240 degree i poke straight up, ie no side to side movement, and i go no more than where the heatblok starts. in that way i make sure that i never get to the heat break

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