Switch to Volcano on single hot end

Discussion in 'Guides, Mods, and Upgrades' started by Duncan Chivers, Apr 7, 2020.

  1. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I'll try to keep this as brief as possible :rolleyes:

    So following a problem with my standard v6 hot end which has meant that I can't remove the defunct PT100 that's in it, I've decided to switch to the volcano that came with everything I originally received when I got the printer (pre-order, not kickstarter, and fully assembled).
    I've just received a replacement PT100 to use, and I've put it all together using the 0.8mm nozzle that also came with it.

    But the IR sensor won't go low enough to engage before the nozzle hits the bed - I've moved it down as far as it will go and it's at least 1cm too high..

    I know @Spoon Unit had similar issues here -https://forum.e3d-online.com/threads/dual-volcanoes.908/#post-7240 however that's a dual setup, and mine's a single.

    Obviously I don't currently have the capacity to print any new parts, so I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas?

    Thanks
     
  2. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Your problem seems to come down to how to bridge the gap between this

    upload_2020-4-7_15-34-10.png

    and this

    upload_2020-4-7_15-34-41.png

    This was the only change required to extend the travel distance of the IR Probe down far enough to 'see' the bed before the nozzle hits. You could get one printed from someone close perhaps? Or you could wangle something nasty together with a piece of wood to get you to the point where you can print the full thing. Or you could buy some new bits for the V6. Options....
     
  3. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    I think you're right, I'm going to have to cut it in half and patch on an extension!

    Can you please post a link to the stl file for that piece?
     
  4. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Ok, one nasty bodge later and I'm printing! Thanks @Spoon Unit , I'm not sure whether I would have just taken the plunge and cut the part in half without your encouragement!

    I'm loving the speed of the volcano, and the strength of the prints is very cool.

    I am definitely seeing some issues with the filament not coming out of the nozzle quickly enough at the start of each layer, so I'm getting 4 or 5mm gaps before it lays down plastic - is that just temperature, or is there a setting in S3D that I can tweak?
     
  5. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    :)

    Here's the model I used with the volcano.

    There was an associated extended blower mount, but I think maybe you already have that.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Yeah - you're beginning on your learning journey with retraction and restart with the Volcano then. If you have a Duet, then you can have the Duet control the retractions and restart and, more importantly, you can tweak this on the fly. To set that up, get S3D to start outputting G10, G11 codes and then read up on M207. Now, mid-print, just keep issuing changes to M207 and you'll soon hit the right numbers. I think I had a pile of macros to set the numbers higher and higher, but that's a bit too much faff really compared to just using the console in DWC to test changes.

    If you don't have a Duet, then S3D can still help. What you need to improve the 'splurge' at the start of a perimeter is extra-restart-distance.

    upload_2020-4-7_23-41-52.png

    I vaguely remember setting that to about 0.7mm with the volcano, so maybe start there. But don't be afraid to test numbers wildly. The two extremes are what you have - a 5mm gap, and a huge splodge of plastic. The quicker you find the extremes, the quicker you can get to the right number. The pain with doing this is that you have to re-setup the print each time. So, if this is you're chosen path, maybe generate the same gcode with 4 or 5 different setting right off the bat, name the files appropriately, and watch by the printer for each print, cancelling quickly if you're not quite right yet.

    You could knock up a simple test GCODE file to just draw some lines. Pick any short line from a GCODE file and extrapolate the numbers out to, say, a 5cm length in order to get the right E value for the nozzle/height combination your testing. Then sling together a custom GCODE file that will draw lines and perform the necessary retractions and restarts. Now you can embed into the file different values for the extra-restart-distance on each line and get the answer you're looking for in a single print.
     
  7. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Fantastic, that's really helpful!

    I do have a Duet, so I'll start reading up on M207, but in the meantime I may produce some specific test prints from S3D as you suggest - sometimes quick and dirty just gets the job done!

    Also thanks for posting the stl, I'll definitely print one and keep it in reserve for when i next have need to fiddle with the hot end, and I'll replace it then.

    Thanks once again!
     
  8. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Ok I think I'm there, just a tiny bit of blobbing to reduce, but I've obviously gone slightly too far with the extra restart distance.

    I have one more question, about gCode, which is kind of unrelated to this thread but I'm hoping it's a quick answer!

    At the start of a print the head homes axes then goes to the bucket and primes the head, then when it comes out it stops at the edge of the build platform and brings Z up to the correct position. Maybe 3 out of 5 times that causes a grind from the Z motors and it doesn't move up enough.
    My theory is that it's trying to move the axis too fast, and I'd like to slow it down - do you know where the gCode is that controls that? Is it in a g file that I can find in the DWC or would it be set in S3D as part of the data sent in the STL?
    I'm assuming that it's an F value that needs to be reduced on a G1 command?, but I have no idea where it is and I don't want to mess with the wrong one!
     
  9. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    M203 sets the maximum speeds. Then you don't need to worry about the individual F params. Grinding could just be due to dryness. Add some lubricant.
     
  10. Duncan Chivers

    Duncan Chivers Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, adding some grease was all it needed, guess I completely overthought what was wrong!
     

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