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Discussion in 'BigBox General Chat' started by Steven Burns, Apr 20, 2016.
Has anyone used Taulman BluPrint and know what the BB temp settings should be?
I will be tonight to print my Titan parts, and I will let you know how it works (Thanks to @elmoret for having them in stock! unlike Taulman which has been out of stock for weeks)
OK so far, hard to work with due to the RC3 bug of not being able to set the values on the front panel, so you have to use Octoprint to preheat (and even then only with a predefined temp it seems. The settings are 265C for the hotend and 95C (watch the F out!) for the bed. The spools are a pain in the butt, but got the filament loaded, and of course had to run it to get rid of the transparent red PLA that was still in there, drooling all over the place. Then the first part is lifting up in the place that my prints always lift (right hand side towards the front) but the rest is sticking nicely. Not sure what that's about. Using a high end laser thermometer, it's pretty close on temp until you get about 2cm to the outside of the piece near that spot. Not sure if there is a cold spot or what. Anyway I will reprint to the right side and see if the bracket comes out perfect. Still playing with retractions, etc. Based on the Taulman site went with 2.5 for retraction...
Wow! Sounds like a pain in the behind and I have never printed anything that hit before.
Let me know how they turn out and I'll create a new s3d profile.
And if any of the experts can let me know how you switch back properly? Realized I urgently needed a PLA print and that totally was a miserable experience, and still not sure my pathway isn't somewhat gunked up? Everything else has had a ~200c printing temp so easy to just run extra filament 2 to get rid of filament 1. I've even tried cleaning filament?
No easy answer on cleaning other than a quick change V6 assembly which is still a pain with levelling and x-y positioning on a dual. It is an option that I will consider using once I get my build complete (a delayed process) and working but I suspect I will need to look at a metal mounting plate to give a positive location for the extruders. Unfortunately I don't have the mechanical workshop for that activity but I can draw it! Richard Horne has yet to publish his design as it is not finalised.
is the cleaning filament safe at those temps?
Never used it, always used the filament-purge process i.e. using the next filament but hand pushing it hard through the nozzle, pulling back a little, then pushing again. Remember that the printing temperature of the HT filaments is just that but they become liquid at lower temperatures so will purge. The T-glass temperature is one guide to where you need to be in temperature as this is the softening point, so add 40 or so to that might do the job or purge at 10 or 20 below the print temperature using your new filament. I am wary of using the blowtorch as this can cause carbonisation that will make the problem worse. I always remove the filament after a job and leave the hotend at temperature+5 to drain and purge with the next job.
I never had problems for far.
I use the temperature for the old filament at first, push the new filament by hand through the hotend. That way you are way over extruding much more than the normal extruder can achieve. So the new filament, though the recommended temp might be much lower, does not stay very long in the nozzle.
I keep pushing until I get a clean extrusion of the new filament. Then I pause for some seconds, maybe pull back a few millimetres to give residue of the old filament time to melt with the new and then push again.
While pushing I lower the temp. You will see the temp falls very quick if you keep pushing...
That's my method...
OK we are back in business. The cleaning filament just needs to be run through at temp of the high temp filament (I had already done several hundred mm of the lower temp and then entwined to poor effect; ran 300mm through and it's running super clean now. Just started an entwined print and it is printing like it used to.The other great thing about doing this was that I moved the head out while still 265C and used the brass brush and all the little amounts of snot that accumulate on the nozzle and heater block, come right off. All nice and new and shiny.
BTW: handy tip, DO NOT TOUCH THE FILAMENT IN THE DUMP BOX FOR A LONG WHILE... yeah, 265C is freakin hot! And apparently the cleaning filament has a high thermal density! Had to do the hot-potato thing into the trash bin...
Funny you say that about the heat. My wife and I were talking about it last night and to put it in perspective, 265c is hotter than we cook our pizzas at!!
I'll have to buy some cleaning filament and see how that works.
Once I get the Bluprint to print successfully, I will share my s3d profile.
Here is the first attempt (note the little end that pulled off the bed - ugh). Otherwise pretty good. A teeny tiny bit of under retraction at the recommended 2.5, might go to 3 and see how that goes (@Alex9779 or @mike01hu any recs here?). Other settings: 265C, 95C, 0.15mm layer, retraction 2.5
Something worth considering is Boots own brand burns kit.
I may have had a bit of a woopsie with a hot end at 265° but prompt first aid followed by the gel + strange patch that I'd picked up "just in case" will heal nicely and they think not even scar (useful as its my trigger finger)
I saw a similar build when I printed with XT clear but I didn't find a full solution to this other than do NO retraction and keep the printed always OVER the part which is not always possible...
You see the difference very good on your pictures when the print gets at the height where retractions start. And the filament blob on the side are an indication that it still oozes after retracting and the ooze is left behind when traveling over the part again...
I did play with "coasting" but didn't have much success... I think you have to find a good balance between "coasting" which reduces the pressure in the nozzle, basically you stop extruding BEFORE the line ends and use the filament, that would normally ooze AFTER the line, to complete the line. So firstly you gotta estimate how long the "ooze" might be good to complete the line.
And secondly from what I understand is that if you use that "ooze" you need some "extra restart distance" because the filament that oozes is missing in the calculations of the slicer, either if you intentionally use it with the coasting setting or accidentally while travelling.
But the relation is somehow critical and I didn't find a good one yet. You gotta estimate how much filament is lost while the extruder does not extrude (wether from coasting or normal oozing) and how much filament in raw millimetres that is to compensate with an extra restart distance...
Ah, that's what coasting does. Yeah, this stuff oozes like crazy (like just sitting over the ooze bucket it drools heavily). I'll try some different combinations, until this part works. The other question is am I supposed to leave that webbing on the spool or not? without it the filament starts de-spooling quickly, but I've never used one of these before...
I just had "Bridge Nylon" and it stayed on the spool without the net. But this was 2.85 for the UM2.
I have some "Alloy 910" of the BB but still sealed...
I can't wait to try out the T-Lyne, it seems indestructible, and it's what they recommended for me to try for my cryogenic project (superconducting high T coils for use in a pulsed 8T magnet system as it remains strong even at 25K - that's insanely cold BTW) although 910 is my other choice for that, but Taulman support said this can be problematic below 50K, but is better mechanically. T-Lyne (or Suralyn) is the coating on golf balls among other things, so has an astonishing set of properties.
Nice... Well I have nothing operating at those temperatures
I bought it actually to try to print gears for my RC Helicopters.
So far I printed only with the bridge nylon which was not as troublesome as thought and it was a gear... But not for my helicopters instead I printed it to repair a toy for my daughter: a baby waggon for a baby horse. You place the horse on the waggon, push the button and the waggon drives the baby around saying stupid things and it looks like the baby horse is moving the waggon with his feet but it is still working
Hmm, I'm no expert here Henry compared with @Alex9779 and S3D is still an anathema to me as I still use Slic3r and Cura with my current printer but do try it now and then. My view on coasting is that it is a fudge for not getting temperature, steps/extrusion-multiplier and retraction right. Retraction is of course a pressure reduction feature as is coasting. But I do know that every filament has its own quirks and sometimes it is necessary to use witchcraft. I don't know what Alex thinks but I wonder if small objects like that could use a smaller nozzle perhaps with more retraction. As I have no experience with this material I can't comment on adhesion, so I will rely on you for the research. Bed calls as I have a 400mile round trip to party with great grandchildren and the rest of the generations tomorrow.