Taulman3D BluPrint

Discussion in 'BigBox General Chat' started by Steven Burns, Apr 20, 2016.

  1. Alex9779

    Alex9779 Moderator
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    Don't call me an expert, I just think about what is/could be going on with some knowledge aquired by my small engineering degree...
    And I read all I found for any setting.
    Maybe all this is wrong, I have no one to talk about this other than you guys. And all I say is learned by trial and error...
    And the "experts" which are also on this forum are very quiet. Maybe busy doing some brand new stuff we all dream of...
     
  2. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    It's all relative Alex. But you are right about the "experts", they are smart enough to keep quiet to avoid us amateurs asking silly questions! :D Goodnight!
     
  3. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    An expert is someone who already made the mistake you are trying to prevent...
     
  4. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    So take 2, we had some success and a larger failure (won battle lost war). So the good news is @Alex9779 despite "not being an expert" of course had the right suggestions. Coasting really helped and the print itself looks really crisp (see original V1 and new V2 below) with a great print that lifted right off the bed with no effort (and stuck nicely to the bed while printing) except that unfortunately the bed came right up with the print (a nice 1.5cmx1cm divot). Ugh, will print on the back waiting for the new borosilicate...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    New settings:
    Extrusion mult: 1.0
    retraction distance 2.75mm
    retraction speed: 50mm/s
    Coasting distance 0.2mm
    Layer: 0.15mm
    top/bottom solid: 4
    Infill: 40%
    Bed: 95C
    Hotend: 265C
    print speed: 40mm/s
    Cooling: 10% > layer 3 max 15%, with bridging up to 20% (can't maintain 265C above 20% fan)
     
  5. R Design

    R Design Well-Known Member

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    If I were you, I'd continue to print on the same side, just positioning parts to avoid the hole.

    Use the "good" side for more benign materials.

    btw. have a theory that UHU might help to prevent this: providing a layer that defines the Maximum force that a part can exert on the bed.

    In other words as well as being an agent of Adhesion, it can be a fuse to assure un-sticking.
     
  6. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Taulman3D says to print this directly onto clean glass. And yes, I am printing the other blueprint items to the left of the divot and will flip for things not at 95C. This should arrive fairly quickly I assume from E3D (I ordered 2 so that I will always have a spare). The dual fan is printing now with blueprint...
     
  7. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    The only issue with the theory @R Design is that I had a piece of the e3d farm's glass beds on my delivered BB prints, and we know (think?) they use UHU.

    Also, I lost a piece of my glass too, back when all I ever printed was PLA. Go figure! I just flipped it over and print on the other side. I'll get around to ordering a replacement at some point; for now (and the last few weeks) the other side is doing it's job. I'll definitely flip it back over for higher temp prints.
     
  8. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Well done Henry but the glass issue is annoying. Did the glass fragment on lifting or was it already fractured on cool down. If the former I would suggest using a razor knife to slip under suspect prints to release them; if the latter try the UHU. :(
     
  9. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    It was embedded in the part which was loose after cool down. Is UHU safe at those temps. This stuff is insanely hot...
     
  10. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Much better result the 3rd time around, printing the fan duct (dual) in Bluprint (and no further broken glass). The little zits came right off... Wow, iPhone really went for shallow depth of field on these pics (it is sharp all the way around...)

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  11. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Good printing !
     
  12. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Now that I have my kevlar gloves a little more willing to engage this stuff (bed at 95C is a tad scary - and forget about 265C for the hotend). Oh and by the way I printed this one with that stretch mesh still on the spool, which worked great (no springing off the spool). after I get the hotends printed, will switch to Nylon or something for the other parts...
     
  13. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Hotends? You mean the carriage?
     
  14. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Yes, sorry the STL is called "point_one_hotends.stl" so was just referring to that.
     
  15. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Once I get my titanium 3D printer I will print my own hot ends though!!! :eek: (must win powerball first!)
     
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  16. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    I printed point_one_hotends in PLA. Despite the name, that seems to me like it'll never come close to anything that's actually hot.
     
  17. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    I know, but it just seems suspicious that you could theoretically have both hot ends at 400C and heat wouldn't rise off the heat break to the part above?
     
  18. Spoon Unit

    Spoon Unit Well-Known Member

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    Logically ... completely sound thinking and Blueprint is going to provide more resistance than PLA. Couple of things make me think PLA could be completely fine though. First, you've got a big heatsink in the way which has air blowing straight across it; this would seem to not only cool the heatsinks more rapidly, but also blow much of that rising hot air from the hotends out of the way. They're full on from the moment the hot end hits 40 degrees. Then you've got the part cooling fan also pushing air out of the way. Given the issue I see with the part cooling fan causing problems with keeping the hotend temp steady, I'm considering wrapping the hot end in some Kapton tape as others have already done. I'm not 100% on this though as the Kapton tape seems to suggest it's good up to 260C, so 400 might just kill that. So far, I have about 5 print materials and none take the hotend over 240C. I'm not sure what requires a 400C hot end, but I suspect the part cooling fan is going to be very limited in effect with such a material.
     
  19. mike01hu

    mike01hu Well-Known Member

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    Printing with lead filament?;)
     
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  20. Henry feldman

    Henry feldman Well-Known Member

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    Plan on printing PEEK which does print at 400C believe it or not... That is the FDA approved implant plastic.
     

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